3500?! i used to take mine to 6000 every day, never broke anything lol! just make sure its got good oil and is up to temp.. it was rather rubbish standard though, hence changed cam and put twin 40s on. but still, you can rev em past 6000 and nothing should blow up! dont forget the internals are essentially the same as a GTI
Mines done 170k and i give it 5-6k everyday..Like ya man says make sure the oil and filter are good and its pretty much fine... I bought a VW because they last and you dont have to worry so much about crappy engines breaking all the time !
god sounds like there is something wrong with your stereo mate. there is an ice section on here which can help with some minor faults. but in your case i think you better visit the tunes section quick to get that noise sorted out.
I agree with these last 3 posts. I think westonamission's dead right about the reasons for the 'whoosh' at higher revs, especially if the diaphragm pump he's referring to is the 'power valve' on the offside of the carb. I think scottymk2's dead right about high revs not being a problem (within reason), I'd add that the coolant system wants to be fault free, and engine temps in the normal operating range to do it with confidence though (obviously!). Twin 40s sounds like it would be swift at the top end! I think the reason gbk's not happy to rev his high may be that his secondary throttle isn't working right or at all. The guy at my local garage who knows his 2e2's said he'd seen dozens of cars come in with completely inoperative secondary throttles, without the owner being aware of a problem. It's only when you get up the rev range that it's really apparent whether it's going or not, and many people just don't use this capacity in their daily drivers. Could also be a choked exhaust making it strain to achieve high revs (mine was certainly far better after replacement of rear two/thirds). madmk4: I too am enjoying using my rev range on a daily basis, where possible. Unfortunately my engine's only just getting up to full temp by the time I get to work/get home, both in 30 zones [:^(] . Nice to hear the confidence in the VWs, I plan to keep mine for as long as possible. Perhaps I need a job a bit further away from home... Edit: gorilly: lol
If you're gonna use all the revs - and it would be rude not too - you need to be happy the cambelt is in good nick. I take mine to the red fairly regularly on the A34 Wilmslow bypass, chasing Merc and Beemers. Though I think I've read on here that the 8V don't bend all the valves if it does go. Barkstar
Well, maybe I'm being a big girly wuss. I certainly need to spend a bit of time and money on the old thing. I keep thinking of lowering kits and new wings/lights but my sensible side knows that it needs a cambelt change and a new cam cover gasket. At least I've changed the oil now. Seem to have developed a bit of leak at the top of the radiator at the coolant return point as well. Don't know if it's the hose or there's a crack in the rad. Basically, I'm feeling a bit reluctant to change the cambelt because I don't know how to do it and I don't want to bugger up the timing. Anyone got a how-to guide?
the haynes is more or less adequate on teh subject. you need to remove the lower belt cover which means the crank pulley and the water pump pulley have to come off which can be a bear but so long as you have a good 6mm allen drive (for a socket drive) and you hammer it firmly into the bolts it is OK. My other tip for lazinness is to mark with tippex the old belt in situ with marks on each of the three sprockets. then copy the tippex marks from the old belt onto the new belt by counting the teeth on the belt (make sure you can count!!) and then pop the new belt on lined up with the marks on the sprockets. That way you can be 100% sure it's in exactly the same place as the old one. tightening up the tensioner: put a socket on the bolt (15mm?) and then put the short end of a small allen key into one of the two tensioning holes in the tensioner hub and then push the long end of the allen key down using the 15mm socket as a fulcrum (good word eh!) so as to rotate the tensioner clockwise. Then tighten the bolt, check the belt tension and repeat until the belt tension is correct
THe way I set the belt tension is you use a socket on the cam pulley bolt till I get 90 degrees on the belt, then set the tensioner. Turn the engine over a couple of times to check for valve contact, and re-check the tension. One of the main gotchas for a 1st time belt swap is the dizzy will spin freely with the belt off
^^^^^ Lol tell me about it i did my first cambelt last week only took 13 hours lol 10 of them must of been setting it up lol., This has been an interesting thread, i take my driver to 5k often, but there must be something wrong as i have had it at near on 5k in 5th and its just past 85mph [:^(] [:^(] [:^(] Mind i do have a polo gauge set in ( got a driver set on the way) also my progresive is jetted wrong i think, it coughs like mad and stumbles at around 4 k but if i work up slowly its only using the main its kool as.
Your right that's not good. Mines doing 70mph at just under 3k in top and 80mph at about 3.75k Barkstar
well it can only be drivetrain related, engine problems wont change the rpm in a particular gear What size wheels/tires have you got, is your clutch slipping and what gearbox do you have fitted?
Dont mean to take this off topic so il keep it sweet, its a EZ 1.6 weber carb all stock . im running 195/55/15 ( BBS RA's) the clutch isnt slipping as far as i know. I reecived the golf gauges today so they will be going in tommorow
