Cheers buddy. I'll do another update once I can get out with this rain. I think exhaust fitting will be in a week or so and test the same day
Ok so not much of a progress update as I have no photos due to the rain today. I did however get chance to tie up a few loose ends and give the motor a run at idle for about 5 minutes. Some of the good stuff first - Sounded beefy but only the downpipe is installed so not surprised really! The idle is shocking but that could be to do with a whole number of things as some of the boost pipes weren't tight up and there is no intake manifold temperature sensor hooked up yet. It did rev up although I only gave it a quick blip with the boost pipes loose etc. After the blip of throttle - idle was hunting slightly. I'll get the boost pipes clamped tight and give it a good time to idle and warm up and see what's happening. Hooked up vag com AFTER the test idle so these faults are with engine off - ignition on. And then I cleared the codes - So I guess I'll have to plug in the iat sensor and have a look at the brake light switch then I think fire up again and use measuring blocks to see what's happening. Some of the fault codes above would have been generated when I disconnected the fuel pump to prime the turbo with oil. Fingers crossed the idling smoothes out
Is there any way of adjusting the rod length on this switch? Just bought one and it doesn't meet with the pedal so brake lights are on permanently lol Vagcom is showing up a fault with the switch
which one did you get? 1C0945511A RDW? Matt put one in his mk2 no problems: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...ic-vw-cup-racecar.219142/page-14#post-2229947
That's the one. I am using corrado pedal box I think. With the hydro clutch set up but wouldn't have thought that would be different to the golf mk2?
did you feel it click as you twisted it? I think the idea is the end extends once its fully locked in place and thats the adjustment set?
It says to fit whilst pedal is against it so I used my finder instead. It did click but won't extend. I'll have a play later. Thanks
I read it to mean specifically dont touch the pin at all during assembly, only allow the pedal to touch it as you're installing the switch?
That's how I read it too but the pedal doesn't touch the pin at all regardless of it being locked in or not Maybe the rod on the servo needs adjusting to push the pedal closer to the pin?
if you think there is enough adjustment to get it in contact without putting the pedal too high worth a try, is it lower than the clutch pedal?
I'll have to check. I could be jumping a fence that I don't need to really...the only reason I swapped to the newest design was because vag com threw up a fault with the brake lights. Both working so thought I'd try this. Not road tested the car yet so won't know if the brake light fault will throw me into limp etc
worst case make a buffer from pedal to contact switch? not sure why matt had no problems but its not workign for you?
Pedals are roughly the same so I won't adjust for now. I'll stick the old one in and see if I get limp mode etc I'm not sure why either but I'll find out lol
I'm keen to road test as the idling was rough as hell but once a tiny amount of throttle was added it sounded and felt fine. I think looking at this through vag com and adjusting is the way as the tacho is out of a petrol mk2 so not accurate.
Ok so today I clamped all the boost pipes up and ran a vac line from inlet to map sensor at the ecu. All plumbed in and ready to go. So with all that hooked up, I plugged vcds in and started the car. No air leaks that i could see, feel or hear lol so I let the car warm up to temp while i have a play on vcds and try and get used to how it all works. I'm trying to put my finger on the rough idle and I come across these in measuring blocks... Is that normal for map pressure? At idle is it a worry that the figures aren't closer together? They move further apart when throttle added. And here is showing no value at all on cylinder 4 Huh? Any ideas where I need to start with this or where i need to be with vcds as I'm new to it. Thanks.
Also I should add that it's running A4 ALH ecu not that this should matter? New fuel filter and I had the engine running ok before I swapped the turbo for the pd150. Really want to understand what i need to be doing with vcds lite to figure this out And I want to adjust view injection timing and adjust if necessary so I'll look into this too
Your MAP Pressure is normal for idling. Can you hold the engine at say 2000rpm and check the readings there? Did you plug in the IAT sensor yet?
I did some reading last night and figured that the missing info on cyl 4 was normal for idle adjustment. It's plugged in but not plumbed upto the boost piping.its just hanging in a cold part if the engine bay. When I had the donor car previously it wasn't even plugged in and ran ok. There is a fault code for this though 00527 - G72 open or short to plus. When I have the 3 bar MAP sensor installed, I'll have this wired back up.
I will get a map reading at 2000rpm and post up here When the revs are applied, it sounds bang on but once it evens out and revs are held at and point, it sounds like s*#t - same as idle. It has a hissy ratling sound and the engine bumps around a bit. Kinda like lose heatshield rattle but worse. Does sound good on throttle though so the pd turbo was a winner idea @m1keh
