Just getting the car ready for her 1st start since the big rebuild. Been faffing for weeks setting the flow quantities at the injectors , so decided it was time for the big key turn. Swapped the relays back from the ignition pump running, turned the key to ignition Lights and NO pump prime noise..... But if the ignition is on and I disconnected then reconnect The relay or The coil or The distributor hall sender, it primes... I can even squeeze the white plug in the back of the fusebox and get it to prime. All looks good and No loose wires so far Perhaps I need to study the Bentley wiring diagram but I am hoping someone else may have gone through this Doesn't help working upside down from the passenger side as the car is against a wall
My 16v with a blue, number 67 relay does prime when I switch the ignition on but my 8v with a number 65 relay doesn’t do that initial prime when I switch ignition on.
Thanks for that. My 8v actually has a 67 relay and has always done the prime. Maybe that's what a 67 does!
67/80/167 are just dumb switched relays, the prime function is handed by the ECU/spark controller on the digifant and 16v
Right, back on this today. Still no prime so I have done some testing. I have an immobiliser which looking at it interrupts the starter circuit. Although on testing voltage it is working fine. I have done some tests at the starter motor. Which has been replaced during this engine rebuild. I have 12v+ from the battery to here, then going to the alternator Battery Negative to the body of the starter motor is less than 0.1ohms. I have made sure my earthing points are good. With a helper turning the ignition key to start I get 12v positive at the thick red cable with black tracer at the spade terminal BUT NOTHING HAPPENS is it connected up correctly, see pic and what does the other spade cable connection do (black + black yellow cables)? The car does not turn over/ do anything apart from click relays I have read a great write up by PhatVR6 about the starter motor and this is as far as I have got with solving my issue I know that when I mess around with the fusebox I hear the pumps prime as though I wiggle a loose connection occasionally. But nothing seems out of the odlrdinary and I can not find anything specific. Any help greatly appreciated.
I replaced my original (Bosch I think) stater motor with a Hella. It was only when I went to wire it up did I realise the Bosch was clearly stamped with what wire went where but the Hella had nothing to say which was which. Can't find the post I made about it, but long story short if they were inadvertently connected the wrong way about it was dead, but would fire up instantly when correct. RJ helped out, not saying this'll be the case with you but with mine at any rate, if by some chance they are reversed and an attempted start made it wouldn't have done any harm. Would your new starter maybe have it's connections opposite to the original?
I did consider changing the connections, but the lower terminal tests out as being negative/ground for continuity to the battery Negative, so assume It will just short out!! Be nice to know what that side does though
Further testing reveals COIL The 3 black cables on 2 spade connections at 15+ are live when ignition is on. This puts 13v+ onto the green wire which I think goes to the ignition amp in the bulkhead and tests out fine. Red/Black wire at coils shows nothing Reconnecting this makes the pumps prime DISTRIBUTOR Red/Black 13v ignition Brown/white 10v Green/white - 0 ohms to negative Reconnecting this makes the pumps prime
I get that my 8v kjet may not need to prime each time, it's just that it always had.... that's what confuses matters for me
I don't have the black / black and yellow connector you do just the thicker red / black one. Is your starter a Hella also, can't see it all in the picccie but does look similar? My red/black cable does seem to be on the opposite terminal to yours, when it was fitted as yours is turning the key did nothing at all, no clicking, nothing. I'm no electrician, satisfy yourself swopping them over'll not do any harm and don't take my dodgy recollection as correct!
I even like the fact you have a nut cover on your terminal, I will copy that. I am happy to try your suggestion, but may just hope for RJ to pop along with his wisdom about those other cables. Thanks for the picture. I can't remember whose make this is, so got to do some digging. I will happily take a simple fix
Found it, though adds nothing to what I was thinking... https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...92-mk2-golf-gti-8v.291869/page-3#post-2511592 Read down a post or two for RJ's answer.
Bloody miracle. I did as you said and it only turned over...... starts but stalls after a couple of seconds of running. Thank you
Baby steps... until you have to do it for yourself and start up something you've worked on for a long time, for the first time, I doubt anyone'd understand how daunting it is, well done!
yeah I've not found any concrete data on what exactly makes the kjet relay prime the pump or not, possibly they have a little timer chip in which handles it or its just that sometimes when you turn the key you get a single spark off the coil and the relay sees that and this is what triggers the prime but yeah as long as the pump runs on cranking thats all you need
Just to follow on this thought RJ, I was turning the engine over by hand today. With the distributor 3 pin plug disconnected, NO prime. When it was connected as I turned the engine it did prime...
