Isaac - 1992 MK2 Golf GTI 8v...

Cheers... that helped find them lurking behind the expansion bottle.

Tempting fate, but that appears to be the wiring 100% accounted for. Lesson learned, use something long lasting whem labelling, things always take longer than planned.

 

Putting gearbox back to engine and can't recall which way about the (pictured) top two bolts go.

Dimensionally they're the same so immaterial from a securing point, but that additional threaded top on one is, I believe, for the the earth strap.

Is A or B correct... just in case it matters and the earth wire will reach one location but not the other, don't want to have to redo things later?

 

B, I think, stud at front, but could only find mk2 with 2 normal bolts, mk4 is pictured below. Which I would think is very similar.

 

Cheers... Normally 7zap's got the answer, but let me down this time.

Memory's usually quite good, but was getting myself confused the more I looked at it. That schematic's decided it for me, thanks for quick reply.

 

Double checking things, getting close to putting engine/box back in.

Meyle replacement front engine mount, standard issue spec. to original.

It's replacing what I believe was also a replacement to the original.

Because of that can't vouch that the larger fixing bolt N10234204 - M10x40 hex collar - that now passes up through the cross member wasn't replaced either.

If I've read it correctly it's to be torqued to 70 Nm.

Current (potentially non-original) bolt is 8.8.

Can't find a reference to the originals tensile strength.

Anyone able to check if theirs is 10.9 or above?

Probably get a 10.9 as a precaution, but times against me... If 8.8 is correct, one less thing to juggle.

 

I just bought vibratechnics mounts and they came with 10.9 bolts. Also bought a genuine VAG engine mount bolt for the rear drivers side mount (as vibratechnics one was too short) and that is a 10.9 as well.

where did you see the 70nm torque reference? I have been hunting for engine mount torque specs and can’t find them anywhere.

 

Those "tubes" look like the inserts for the rear suspension top mount rubbers?

 

Short of taking the rears apart again to satify my curiosity, I think you're right Andy and they're the inserts you describe.

Went back and had a look on-line at the kit I got when refurbing them... sure enough, you get a new pair included.

 

@caddyboet sent you a message.

10.9 makes sense, most if not all the others as you say are that strength, plus it not being the original VW raised alarm bells.

If I've got the torque setting right, that too would suggest something stronger than 8.8 would be needed.

 

Sorry for tardy replies, appreciate all the help.

Was a long day, but finally got the engine back in (on the mounts at any rate) and was too punctured to start typing!

Changed the clutch day before last and did the timing / belts yesterday (less the PAS one, 735mm belt yet to arrive!).

Had to take the pulleys back off anyhow to help squeeze things into the bay, couple of scratches to the chassis arms but will touch up... joys of doing it on your own.

Easy saying this as the engine was out of the car, but now that I've got my head around the timing procedure it's something I'd definitely do again.

Ditto the clutch, that was the one I was dreading the most, but in the end found it really straight forward.

Not pretty, but only just begun.

 

Looking confirmation I've understood the below correctly, thanks.

Old coil is somewhere, but buggered if I can find it as it would've helped.

Ignore that the new coil (pictured) has twin copper spade terminals at 1 (-) which are angled/wrongly spaced to fit the white double VW socket... will be swapped over when original turns up.

The two single black wires (one with a clear plug and one with a blue) go to terminal 15 (+) on the coil ?

There is also a single brown wire to the distributor which isn't pictured, that too goes to terminal 15 (+) ?

The 2 x wires held in the white plug (both black / red) go to terminal 1 (-) on the coil ?






Also... the starter.

The smaller solenoid actuation wire with the black plug that's circled.

Original starter was a Bosch, new Hella pictured. The Bosch has markings on its equivalent of those two indicated Hella spades. The Hella has no such markings so don't know which is which.

Does it matter?

Thinking is if it's simply a case of it'll just not work on the wrong spade, that can easily be fixed by changing over to the other, but would using the wrong one first cause damage to anything or will relying on trial and error be OK?

Cheers...

 

Forgot to confirm also... the other end of the earth strap from the corner of the cam cover attachs to the bulkhead using the coils fixing bolts?

 

Brilliant thanks...

The brown wire from the dizzy does look to be extra, enters the rubber connector at the same point as one of the other wires and doesn't feed back into the plastic sheath either.

Take it there should just be the three normally?

It's one of the few wires that the label remained intact for and I've it marked 'coil', certainly has the length to run exactly that far also. You've me doubting myself now, but would've previously said I remember it at the coil (third spade on 15 maybe?)

It's crimped connector at the coil end is someones own work. It and that blue crimped black wire are probably the only two on the car not VW.

Car's an obscure 1990's immobilised only fitted (without any alarm function), would the dizzy have been utilised for that somehow?

 

After much searching found the old images I took before starting work, glad to say my memory's not as bad as I was starting to think it was.

After a bit of Googling last night found a few references to people wiring up kill switches to their coils as a form of immobiliser on older cars... Possible then it is something to do with that?

 

You're right, it looks like that's the case...

It's spliced onto the red/ black wire, marked #3 on the dizzy connector.

What ever it's trying to solve must be elsewhere, the spliced wire wasn't broken or damaged.

Have soldered / secured it for the time being.

Assuming it works, it'll have to stay that way until I'm sure I've the time to unravel it further. MOT's just 3 x weeks away and there's already too much else to do.

Thanks for the pointers, wouldn't have found that otherwise and needed fixing.