Isaac - 1992 MK2 Golf GTI 8v...

Should've added all new bushes / rods / greased up etc. done on linkage itself.

 

Cheers... spent a few more hours after the last post tweaking the shift / eccentric and it snicks around nicely now, inc. reverse with the engine off.

The auto adjust cable was a pretty good one ( actually same french make that the original was, can't remember it now) and it holds the release arm perfectly at 9 0'clock with no slack.

One thing I noticed was if you check it after depressing the pedal a few times you can easily push the release arm down to about 8 o'clock the once, then it'll rise up to 9 0'clock and be held solidly there again... is that it self adjusting?

Manual adjust. looks the way to go... try and get one in time.

The pushrod came from Heritage, turned out to be a Topran.

Got to say the originals quality, despite it's 75K was 100% better, but then again it's just a rod so hopefully shouldn't matter.

Odd thing too was they were identical in length, would've thought the older one would be shorter what with the years of wear on the tip.

Went over the BrokeVW site last night and did his checks - so happy the finger etc. are fine (also looked like new), plus there was new clutch / pressure plate etc. and release bearing.

Wondering should I try the old rod back in too?

 

Manual cable ordered, couldn't get a Gemo but hopefully this one'll at least get things running - fingers crossed!

 

Have you driven it much since it went back together?
What oil is in the gearbox?

The pushrod is (supposed to be!) super hard at the ends, so wear won't be obvious.
Is the lever vehicle for the green cover ok, that pushes the pushrod? I had one crack once.

 

Unfortunately that's my problem, can't get it into gear to drive so other than a metre forward in 3rd and (a crunch into reverse) back nothing.

Oil was completely drained and refilled with 75-90W GL-4 (container specifically says it'll cover were 80W is required).

The gearbox is a later 020 that doesn't require topping up via the speedo opening after refilling at the side.

You can see the discolouration on both ends of the original and replacement rods where it's been heat hardened.

The car's done 79K and unless the original clutch was replaced with another VW one at some point it's quite possible that the one in it was there from new.

Wear to everything was quite minimal, so could explain there being no difference in rod length between old and new... I'll stick up a few images later.

The finger was like new, even the release bearing on thes side it pushes against wasn't all that worn, again might have even been the original VW one.

The release arm sits exactly at 9 O'clock and there's no upwards play in it either which apparently is a good sign it's OK.

Have never done a clutch before, tempting fate here but it didn't give me any problems.

Still have the old clutch bits that were taken out and reassembled them on the bench this AM, doesn't seem possible to fit anything wrongly even you tried... wishful thinking maybe?

 

At a loss until some bits turn up... gave him a bed bath in the garage so as to feel like I'm doing something useful

Managed to bag a MOT cancellation for early next week, so bought myself a few more days, but it's still going to be tight.

 

If you put the car in gear, and get the clutch pressed, engine off, can you push the car?

 

Working on my own all of the time unfortunately, don't think that was one of the combinations I tried because of it.

Pulled the self adjusting cable out today too, in readiness for the manual so can't try and get someone to help check.

Trying to remember what combos. I did try, don't take this as gospel though.

This is all after getting the engine off / gear selector set up how I think it should be and according to VW's spacings.

If engine is off, I can easily select any gear inc. reverse and keeping it in that gear, if I then start the car / clutch back up it'll move forwards / reverse no problems.

If I then go to neutral with the engine still running, it'll now refuse to go back into any gear.

If the car is in gear, inc. reverse (and the engine is off) I can't roll it back or forth.

Out of gear it'll roll freely either direction.

One thing I did notice - If I select reverse / engine off it will occassionally just not go completely in, no matter what you do... If I then push the selector bar in the engine bay by hand, just that small bit further it'll clunk into reverse - almost as if the selector rod ends it's travel just a little too short of where it needs to be.

Makes me think it's just at the extent of it's travel and sometimes can't make it.

Like I say 9 times out of 10 that doesn't happen. Have tried tweaking away from the VW settings, but if anything it just gets worse.

These are some pics I took a while ago, the old rod is above / left of the newer one and that's the finger wear on the release bearing (new one on the left)

The second rod image is of the old ones other end that rests in the release bearing.

The pressure plate has a similar size and shape of indentation, neither of those struck me as being that bad, but then I've no experience / nothing to compare to.

It's only looking again at the first image that I realise how worn the rods tip was, if it had a similar profile to the new ones there must be a few mm. lost.

Reminds me of why I was surprised the new / old measured the exact same, I was expecting it to be longer.

Might it be something as small as a few mm. that's preventing the clutch disengaging?

 

If it's mentioned on 7zap, I can't find it but 020 141 741 B is given as the rod part number - Autodoc list a few brands inc. the Topran I was sent and they all come in at 342mm.

Measured the old rod with a wobbly steel tape, but even so if it's not 342mm there's not much in it.

Have to assume then the new one is correct also.

There's a rod for the 4-spd box, 020 141 741 and Autodocs choices range from 311mm to 312.3mm for it, rules out me having the wrong one.

Below is the wear on the pressure plate and the clutch.

Might be the manufacturing date... 2001?

If so, not the original then, but shouldn't be a surprise I suppose.

One of the OE manufacturers appears to have been LuK.

Was mentioned previously, rightly or wrongly that it's an old form of clutch, most have slats across their faces now?

 

That disc looks well worn.

Strange though, it sound more like a clutch not releasing, that's causing your problems, rather than one slipping.

Pressure plate centre is worn alright, but looks like most I've seen.

Not unusual for one not to be able to always select all gears with the engine off, sometimes you need the shafts turning, to be able to get the gears to engage.

Have you a steel plate between the engine and box?

 

Yup, that tin piece is there.

Was reading back over the BrokeVW site last night.

Now that I've got my head around the names of some of the components and also seen them for myself, a lot of it makes more sense to me now.

The manual cable's due tomorrow (heard that one before)... I'm building myself up for a fall here, but pinning my hopes on it being the problem.

I'm still not convinced the adjusting one was pulling up as far as it needed to be.

I also just don't see anything else being amiss, having said that if the problem isn't fixed the next step'll be to drain the fluid and re-check the release bearing / finger again. Unfortunately most of the other possible causes he lists need the gearbox back out, but will worry about that then if it's to happen!

 

My main light switch works fine and is the original, it's just that the emblem doesn't illuminate.

The version of 7Zap I can see lists 191 941 531 M for GB cars with city lights, I'm guessing that's dim-dip, which my '92 car has.

Not that readily got by the look of it though, but some sellers list 191 941 531 L (7zaps says they're for Swedish/Finish and Norwegian cars) can be used, plus much more easily found.

Don't want anything to start smoking because of the wrong switch... are they correct?

 

Sorry, typing as you were.

My mistake too, didn't say but the images are of the clutch and plate that were replaced. It's a new Sach kit is in it at the moment.

 

Should really have pulled out the one that's in it to see the numbers / pins but it'd be sods law I break something at this late stage that I can't replace, specially to do with the lights.

Tried fixing a window switch before and mangled it, maybe one for doing if/when it gets the test!