Isaac - 1992 MK2 Golf GTI 8v...

Mentioned earlier that I'd pulled the detent out, just to check it in case as is suggested on BrokeVW that it may have failed.

Mines marked 020 301 241 C which if VW parts are catalogued alphabetically as they evolve / are replaced, predates 020 301 241 H as given on 7Zap for a 1991 car.

7zap also describes it as a 'locking screw'.






Don't suppose that's any big deal and I'd be surprised if mine wasn't the original any how.

Got me looking and below are images from the inter-web of the H version (still available new) -





Without seeing them side by side in the flesh it's hard to be certain those differences in profile etc. matter.

I'm guessing the way the ball bearing tip is now enclosed on the later H version by the piece below was maybe an attempt to improve on the C version that could potentially spill its insides out into your gearbox if that retaining ring failed?

020 301 241 C seems to be also still available but listed as a MK4 part now.



It looks a closer match to the MK2 original, but again impossible to confirm it's a direct replacement unless side by side.

Maybe someone could shed some more light on it... hopefully don't need a new detent, but always good to know for again.

Interesting that my original and the various possible replacements all seem to be made by RollAx.

 

Be entertaining to see the parts persons head throbbing if you walked in with that one.

All to do with the same thing was me looking to check the selector mechanism.

This Audi ball joint socket remover thingy is 27mm and perfectly fits the VW embossed metal end cap (plus handily the green plastic timing inspection hole screw in cap), can be used with a 1/2" socket wrench.

This one is from Laser Tools (No. 6397) but seems to be plenty of others doing it too.

 

MK2 has gone off the boil, couldn't make the MOT date what with the still as yet unresolved gear selection issue.

Got a new date for the end of July, plagued the licencing people until they found a slot that was closer than the mid-October ones I was being offered on-line.

Also got an engine brace / trans jack, arrived day before last after over a week sitting in some Hermes shed or other.

Been swotting up while waiting and was wondering, if the engine / gearbox were misaligned would a possible symptom be hard to select gears?

The alignment process seems a bit basic, loosen the mount bolts and wiggle things about until they settle is what it appears to comes down to.

Last ditch hope of a simpler fix than taking it all apart again!

 

I don't see how, the engine wiggles around on the mounts anyway. And we often have to play with the mounts to fit different engines, turbos, manifolds etc.

Have you gone through every part of the linkage?

The bush at the bottom of the stick, the "golf ball" on the relay tower, and the orange bushe in the housing?

 

Yup... the whole lot's been apart / checked / adjusted and renewed whether it needed it or not, though starting to look like an example of the old story of 'leave well alone' would've been a better plan!

Grasping at straws just, checking the small things first and working progressively up to removal.

Further to checking the detent above, had the remainder of the selector mechanism out to check it and on the surface of things all seems well.

The selector finger at the bottom is the only bit I can see any signs of wear to.

I've nothing to compare it to though and because it's an odd off centre shape I initially thought I'd hit on something, but the more I look at it, it might just be intentionally machined that way.

Check the angle of the other piece I've high lighted too, the part that the finger passes between, it's similarly angled.

Sods law, but according to BrokeVW there's 3 x types of assembly and he's images of the early and MK3 one but none of mine.

 

Hard to believe I wrote the last post almost a month ago!

Truth is I've done next to nothing since, just can't get the motivation to take the box back out after all the long hours that were put in to get that far.

The whole thing was meant to be a hobby to enjoy, but had turned into a teeth grinding chore so time away's probably a good thing.

Would love the car to be running, just not at any cost.

Mentioned somewhere else that I'd been documenting the cars (long) progress exclusively on another forum.

Unfortunately they changed platforms (is that the right terminology?) and much of it was lost in the move, plus the new forum was then plagued with spammers and porn pushers which took the shine of things further.

Rather than lose everything altogether I'm going to cut'n'paste what's left to this thread, it'll probably be disjointed and not read very well but can't really be avoided...

 

May 12, 2020, 11:52:14 AM

Sunday afternoon, summer's over and it's drizzling outside...

Going to start a general thread on my 1992 8v that's currently sitting neglected in the garage, and has been since 2010'ish.

Every 18 months or so I get the energy to do something, but it's usually nothing major and she's still more or less as I got her all those years ago.

Too ashamed at her current state to let you see any photo's just yet. I'm probably going to regret this but publicly humiliating myself on a forum might be what it'll take to get me to remove the finger.

Hasn't stopped my wishful thinking though, that some day she'll move and I still buy bits every so often as I find them.

Anyhow these arrived on Friday, hence my latest renewed interest... hope it lasts!

 

May 12, 2020, 11:52:41 AM

Had to start somewhere so for no other reason that it was sitting at the front of the parts pile I'd a go at re-texturing and painting the rear bumper cover.

Early on I decided I was going to try and do as much work as possible myself, partly because I'm tight but also to try and pick up some experience on the way.

The cover wasn't in bad shape to start with which was a big help, just some parking scratches.

The main issue was the unpainted black upper part had gone grey and no amount of dressing on it worked.

I used Halfords 'Truck bed liner paint' and even I do say so myself, it created a perfect match and came up a treat.

Difficult to get a decent picture, you'll have to take my word that side by side with the front cover it's virtually indistinguishable in the flesh.

The un-preped front cover is on the right in one of the images below

The white lower part also came up well, some more polishing and I'll be happy.

Rubbed down, primer and painted the cross-member/irons even though they'll (hopefully) never be seen again.

 

May 12, 2020, 11:53:09 AM

Saying as the back bumper's ready I was concentrating on tidying up the boot area before putting it back on.

You might remember eddypeck found a guy in Germany doing replacement boot stickers and that I got some sent over -



There's another smaller 'paint inspection' sticker on the same panel.



Had a go at replicating it myself since the original is in bad shape.

Seemed a waste of a whole sheet of adhesive paper just for a single sticker so printed off a few spares

 

Zender fetish strikes again... Like a lot of their more mundane bits, probably made by someone else and packaged for them, but when you're smitten that's not the point!

 

Turning into a steering wheel wh***!

Picked this Nardi / Personal up less its badge, but with a genuine 81/85 Audi 80 hub which just so happens to also fit most small spline VW's.

Found an original Audi badge of eBay.de plus as luck would have it the VW GTI version, they're the exact same wheel otherwise.

 

May 12, 2020, 12:02:18 PM

Was in the loft last night looking for something I thought might do the Pug and found this way at the back.

I'd noticed the box before, but thought it was empty and for a 'normal' deflector I've in the garage for the MK2... turns out it wasn't!

I must have bought this a very, very long time ago, possibly from a guy in Poland. He'd one of those one page websites you sometimes still find that look like they were done in the 80's for an arcade game.

It was like going back in time and finding a car factors that'd been closed for decades, but still stocked up. The NOS stuff he had was unbelievable.

Just had a Google and it's possible 'Airpress' have since morphed into the current day 'Climair'.

Judging from the sticker on the box and the cars the deflector was intended for I'd say this was possibly a mid to late 80's item. The idea behind the flaps seems sound enough, be interesting to see if they work in practice.

Definitely going onto the MK2.

 

May 12, 2020, 12:06:22 PM

GTI-Engineering Dash Gauge... Originally a post of it's own, including it here before it's lost on the old forum -

GTI-Engineering offered a single dash mounted gauge to compliment some of their conversions.

Below is an image from the 1990 catalogue and another filched from the inter-web of it in someones car -







Had toyed with the idea of doing it for my own, even got some of the bits, but it involves a certain amount of cutting to the dash clock surround and I now want to keep things original.

Might buy a spare surround and finish it, you never know!

The hand brake light warning lamp's from a US spec Golf/Jetta, hence the 'BRAKE' script in addition to the symbol. Must be a version out there with the symbol only (if it's in the pics), be interesting to know.



The new gauge surround is a VDO item but intended for their marine clocks. Some come in 52mm just like the automotive ones.

Main difference is the aperture is smaller than 52mm because it's meant to be fitted over the bezel of the marine gauge, not have the gauge slide into it, presumable to help keep it waterproof, like so.



I'm guessing it's closer to 51mm so easily enlarged with a Dremmel or similar to get this...

 

May 12, 2020, 12:07:01 PM

Clock surround arrived today and seems to be in excellent shape, with the added bonus of having the red symbol panel.

I tried to take images as I went along, but not having two pairs of hands it meant some of the stages didn't get pictured, however I'm sure you'll get the idea from what is there.

I used a combination of a very fine toothed modellers saw, a Dremel with the cutting disc attachment and various small files plus some fine sand paper, so nothing unusual is needed.

The red panel face comes away from the white body when you remove the 8 x fixing points on the rear. They're just the ends of the pegs from the red part, melted flat into recesses in the white body. Being brittle plastic they'll snap off easily but still leave enough of the peg to later re-position the red face correctly.

Made working on the two bits so much easier when apart.

As before, it's not difficult but very, very easy to break something you didn't want to.

There's probably variations on how to do this but this way seems to preserve the rigidity of the clock surround and symbol panel.

The last remaining tang on the panel body is enough to hold things tight but I'll likely add a blob of adhesive to the other end where it slips into the clock surround.

Next stage will be fixing the VDO gauge surround, it's just mocked up at the moment... leaning towards small screws from the rear, but we'll have to wait and see, Saturday night's Bacardi night and a steady hand's needed!

 

May 12, 2020, 12:07:35 PM

I thought VDO probably know best and went for their solution of a 'U' bracket. It had to be a bit wider than theirs to reach but there's a very convenient groove down each side where the now missing blanking plugs once fitted...

 

May 12, 2020, 12:08:06 PM

Needed to put the dash back together after trying to get to the bottom of the speaker problem, so an ideal opportunity to change over the clock surround at the same time.

I went with the cut down standard symbol panel, the US one would need the circuit board bit trimming back and I'd probably mess up the electrics to the bulb in the process. Would be easy to put a new bulb/holder in the US housing and do away with the board altogether, but as I'd already done the other, I just stayed with it.

The void behind where the gauge now sits is more than big enough to accommodate it, absolutely no issues with it fouling on anything.

Used the analogue clock for no other reason than it was in the spares box, but I actually like it. Not wired up yet, but be nice to see it illuminated with the rest of the dash.

I'm more keen on it now that it's in, might just wire it up and keep it. Easy to reverse if I change my mind or want to replace the clock for say an oil pressure gauge or go back to the standard surround..



For the pedants it was actually correctly done from the reference material, just as GTi-Engineering would have...

 

June 02, 2020, 10:28:26 PM

The 205's not quite done yet, but now that it's driving again the last few things just don't seem to be as important anymore and can wait a while longer.

Moved the MK2 into the light and it's clear it's going to be much more work to get running again, shes been sat for far too long.

Going to break myself in gently and give it a clean up first, just to see what's, what.

The interiors probably the bit that'll take the least effort, but still need to check there's no hidden surprises.

Been poking around the boot and rear quarters, though thankfully nothing to worry about yet -

 

July 19, 2020, 11:40:28 AM

Poor old Golf went back to being ignored for a few weeks, however just got around to putting the drivers door electric window gubbins back in

Some of you'll remember from the old site that it'd stopped working and the fix was to take the motor apart to free up the sticky bushes (cue Damien.wrl).

All that's lost now, but if I find the old images may possibly repost it as a 'how to'.

The upshot was that I'd done it so long ago I couldn't remember what went where and had to take apart the passenger side door to see from that.

The drivers motor still works after the fix by the way, so obviously effective.

Gave the passenger side a clean up saying as it was now accessible, having said that it was just dust really... great testiment to VW's rust prevention, even if the original wax is now a bit crusty after 30 odd years. New layer of Waxoyl... didn't even take the old stuff off as it was still doing its job.

Found some hand written marks (in crayon or wax pencil I think), presumably done at the factory for whatever reason... Amazing to think that whoever did it may not even be around anymore!

 

July 23, 2020, 02:08:18 PM

OK... the threads gotten all very disjointed and a bit odd to read in places - when it was transfered over from the old forum I couldn't include the replies and comments others made, plus some of the image links were broken and chunks have been left out as a result.

I've found what I think are most of the images from the front fog light fix - the one using the metal bodies from MK3 fogs to replace the often singed / melted plastic bodies found on quite a few MK2 ones.

There was originally quite a bit of a written explaination (which if I'm honest, I just don't have the will to try and repeat at the moment) so I can't guarantee anything is in the correct order below, or that I'm properly remembering what's going on in the images... so don't take what you see as entirely correct or complete and check before you commit to dismantling anything valuable!

Feel free to jump in if you see any glaring mistakes!

1. MK3 Hella metal bodied front fog light - less its bumper mounting bracket and clip on/off glass lens / bonded on plastic holder, none of which are pictured or you'll need.



2. Remove the black plastic housing by picking out the original (white) sealant. In the images below you can see the tangs (highlighted in the second image) are poking out straight. They are in reality bent over and encased in the sealant... the images were taken after straightening them to allow removal of the grey metal housing. You'll have to remember to bend them back over when refitting later on.

They're also orientated with one tang being larger than the other to ensure they only fit the correct slot and way about







I may have remembered this bit wrongly... I think the grey casing with optical lense is more or less the same on MK2 and 3's and therefore interchangable. If not just use the MK2 one instead.




3. You'll obviously need bits from your MK2 lights... one is the white piece below, that replaces the black vesrion from the MK3. It's removed in the same way as the MK3 one, by picking out the sealant / tangs etc.



4. Shiny metal bodied MK3 reflector in various states of cleanliness before painting. Not essential I suppose, but easy to do while like this and should help prevent corrosion-









5. MK3 reflector in MK2 (white) plastic holder and memory permitting your choice of MK2 or MK3 grey metal casing / optical lens.

There's a 'cup' on that casing... just in case your tangs allow fitting either way round make sure it goes to the bottom - Note the tangs in this image have yet to be bent back over before resealing.



And bent over...



Thermal sealant, the temperature of the lens is intense, hence the plastic versions melting.








6. Finito... Hella MK3 metal reflector with Hella MK2 bits back on -