Ive just changed the cambelt on my 8v and its now feeling a little choked and not as torquee as before. I think the rotar arm maybe a little too far to the right of spark lead 1 when on tdc. Do I need to correct this meaning all pulleys and covers need to come off again? Do I need to take the belt off the cam and adjust it. If so which way would I move the cam? clock or anti. I used the notch on the inside of the cam pulley and crank/flywheel marks for TDC.
The dizzy is driven by the intermediate pulley rather than cam or crank toothed gear, the notch on the front crank pulley is meant to mine up with a dot on the intermediate gear, however rather than take timing belt off again you can just turn the dizzy and re-time it using a strobe....that's assuming the cam is timed correctly of course, which I take it it is based on your initial post
I know the dizzy is driven by the intermediate so I guess moving the actual dizzy would be better than taking the covers off. I the cam is a tooth out is there anyway of know which way out it is or is it just a matter of trial and error?
If you are confident you lined the TDC marks on crank and cam gears then I'd just go for the dizzy timing first myself mate
This'll be the reason you wanted to borrow my timing light then? Give the dizzy a tweak anti-clockwise (more advance) to see if it feels better. I find that you can get them fairly close by ear. The point at which the car idles fastest and most smoothly is usually a bit too far advanced, and then back it off a bit. This is the car with the Megasquirt conversion, right? So ideally you need to set the ECU to static timing and set the dizzy up from there. However, adjusting by ear might help you find something a bit closer than where you are now.
Its not the big yellow banana which is still there. It is the megasquirted 8v. do I need to set the static timing thing on MS each time I reset the timing physically? I've not touched any of the MS settings so not entirely sure how I would do this.
K, When, the belt was put on and you may have accidentally moved the intermediate timing wheel and thrown the dizzy reference out of sync, from when the car was first set up. 10 mins job if the car is all road legal...providing the cam to crank phasing is also right. I know what the car should go like, so once I free after work we can sus it out.
All the megasquirt timing figures are set from the base timing where you static-set the ignition timing. If that's out, everything else is out by the same margin.
Thanks Eddie. I want to give it a go on my own first just as a learning exercise. What should I be aiming for with advance. I have never 'dialled' in advance before only set static and used a basic timing light. Any tips are more than welcome before I come running to you
Providing the cam to crank is right, Set the engine on hi idle e.g. 1500rpm. Fix the calibration timing in the ECU to a recognisable setting such as 0 or 10 or so (reset the fixed setting from -10) Using an advance timing light setting it to zero offset Use a clear timing ref mark view the actual timing like flywheel etc. If the timing is offset from what the ECU is delivering as seen by the advance timing light, turn the dizzy to match your fixed ECU setting. Lock the dizzy and set the fixed timing back to -10 to use the map. Job done! Let me know how you get on If you are not sure after this then take a drive to West London to experience 8v fury (not) lol
If you use 6* as the static advance it'll match the V mark on your flywheel. You can use 0* as well, but chances are the car won't idle as smoothly at 0* BTDC.
lets see if I have this right. - set to high idle - set advance in spark- Idle advance settings in megatune - adjust dizzy so the flywheel timing 'V' notch is aligned - lock dizzy and revert ecu advance to -10 have I understood that properly?
I did it but it ran even worse zero power so I obviously went fundamentally wrong somewhere. I set the revs to 1500rpm and started turning the dizzy until the notch on the flywheel was visable with the timing gun. By this point the revs to 1500 again and messed witht the dizzy again. put the ECU advance back to -10. Because it was running better before, I decided to turn the dizzy back to where it was visually before I started. Went to start and all I am getting is a click, no crank movement at all. I put the crank back to tdc, set the dizzy notch and arm to spark lead 1. Still no movement. What the hell have I done now?
I only changed the -10 to 10 then back to -10. was I supposed change it somewhere else? I saved the map before I made any changes so I'll load that back on
I've loaded the original map back on. The engine is not turning at all. All I get is a click in the engine bay but no movement. Has the starter packed up? I had it on jump leads too just in case I drained the battery but that was a bit of a long shot.
