Hi yall i made this thread for solving my mk3 issues I'll post every problem i've with her on this thread instead of make one every time... So here we go After made a full inox exhaust update i started have weird behaviour on the mk3... She started by having power dropping after i made huge accelaration i mean when i hit 5500 6000 rpm uphill when i slow down and cruising just after hit if i try to reaccelarate we feel that she loose power ..she can't do it again.....everything fine when she cooldown She got starting issues either cold or warm she can't able to run properly i've to cut off and restart and then she fine So i decide to redo engine wiring thinking that was the main problem cause i foud some wire wound or badly patch up even one was cut in the wiring bay just one wire in the entire wiring harness how weird (it's was air temp sensor of the ecu). Doing that i apply to clean engine top head and air box, breather boot and manifold which was crappy as hell........ I found huge oil leak in the air box ....Remove everything and mk3 stay like that couple month i blocked all hole and cover the engine to prevent any crap get inside Everything back in place with new wiring harness, new sensors, news spark plugs, new air filter. I change the throttle body but i kept old throttle valve sensor and put a new throttle valve potentiometer Hollow out air box and closed warm air hole that at the back of the air box and an hose going from bumper air duct to the air box Put an air filter on the new oil pressure valve remove breathe line from the air boot and blocked the hole and leave the plug free Car started first time but had a major air intake coming from down air intake manifold and fuel ramp... So redoing seal and fixing air intake ....Restart the car idle just fine a few second and then start going up and down at idle with rmp going from 1200 to 2500 like a yo yo.....
So i checked for other air intake none appear truly so i think it's ok tested the ISV... the car turned off couple second after i remove its plug.... ISV buzzing good on ignition... Well i bought one since 1 mounth Meanwhile i made a VCDS on her.... i hadn't the ABFlabfile back then so i searched and tested all i can What i found it's I've a 3° body throttle angle that i put so my car can idle pretty finely because at 0° she can't do shit ---> What's the Oem angle of the throttle body --> Fixed Water temp sensor was out once again...5th time i changing this ...Fix error in vcds fix wire once again just for sure --> Ok Recently i ran an ecu test on the car again after water temp wire fixing and foud an error on the distributor that i hadn't on the vcds ---> why it's happend I found that engine leaking oil from the top of the engine leaking big time .... I think it's the camshaft seal ---> Some tips to do it my self it's time to do timing on the mk3 Sorry for all that blabla i apologize to those who don't like big post and hope some of yall can help and/or share experiences, tips or more things to do and check on my baby.... Thanks
Merry Christmas, Hanouka every one Today i changed my ISV with a new one (finally) and tested idle of the car..... The car idle at 1900 rpms and steady it's never up and down. I drove the car to see if idle is changing or not ....No changing.... Note i managed to move the throttle valve sensor to see if idle change ...the rpms go up but never go down to 1000 or 800 rpms even if the sensor blocked down Removed ISV plug however make idle at 800rpms but blocking isv's hose entry make the car cut off ....ISV is sucking up right as it must does Any ideas about that behaviour ?
hello there, did you manage to check the idle switch in vagcom? I covered it in this thread somewhere: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/vag-com-abf-digifant-label-files.199583/
Hi @rubjonny the link you provided ain't working anymore But... After many testing and switching I finally troubleshoot my problem and you won't belive what it was.. Throttle body cable holder was broke where the idle switch have to make contact ..It was slightly angled so the car never going to idle position and as the isv pull some air the car idle at 2000rpm Put old throttle body and idle switch back in place and everything work as it does ....But...now ISV making to much air may be cause of a leak that what make the car idle at 900rmp but just fine 880 rmp without ISV plugged. I'll put a seal and a new holder for the ISV and if nothing change ...Run the car without. Now i'm going for the others trouble IDLE TROUBLE FIXED
I'll follow @Nige 's tutorial and some videos for the replacement of the camshaft seal and the timing belt change I thought change all oil lifter because of weird clacking noise i eared when driving but one fellow tell me to change oil pump instead because "oil lifters ain't die like this".. So ima changing all that and i'll tell you if i'll change some in the cylinder head
hmm, link works ok for me so not sure what the deal is with that... but looking at the label files if you have a 93 ECU the idle switch isn't shown in there anyway so you'll just have to check it the old fashioned way with a multimeter I'd be happy with 900rpm tbh if its coming back and maintaining a steady idle under all conditions
I've a "page not found" when i click it and nothing downloaded Both idle switch work fine when you're testing them by pressing switch directly... the car idle steady Yeah the 900rpm is not steady it make time to come back to 900rmp with time to time 1100 rpm I love the 880 rmp sound that the exhaust make .... At 900rpm it's like the car reving and it's louder
is that page not found error happening when you click to go to the forum link there, or only if you try to download the label file? on mine I found the idle switch went intermittent, it would work sometimes but not always. the contacts inside must have got loose I guess, if you pressed it manually it worked just not when pressed the amount the throttle needed to. if thats the case here: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...-0-16v-abf-throttle-close-microswitch.289567/
Hi My bad i followed a link you put in the thread and it lead to a page not found ... All forum links work fine and download too So in that thread i have to follow the instruction of G60dub to do it right ? i'll manage to do it ... But with my oil leak i can't do those tests now... Fixing engine fisrt Thanks for micro switch thread
By the looks of it the early ECU doesnt have a measuring block for the idle switch but you can probe the ecu pins instead with a multimeter
Hello there...been a while I'm back Just to make some update on the car.... Thanks to rubjonny and Toyotec , my vw is a fine ....The idle at 900 1000 rpm as caused by a default ISV (one new yet) Now the car run fine Y'all have trouble with the CLT sensor too ? I don't know why this thing keep failling on my car. I'm on my 10th one since I bought the car.
whats the code its throwing? I've had the same one in mine for years no problem possibly the wiring needs looking at or maybe ecu pin is loose, I've had intermittent fault caused by a pin being pushed back inside the connector a little bit reseating sorted that
I think too it's a wire issue...Already redo it twice with another connector still default after mounth. Don't know why. All engine loom have been inspected and re insulated against heat
Getting the exact same idle issue with mine after new idle valve, on my 2nd valve now with same issue My switch seems to work fine though, any suggestions for what else it could be?
Hi What do you do before idle messed up first. Because some others things can F**ed up idling. If you have nothing done before and on your 2nd ISV probably the new one don't work for your engine. Don't ask why this happen .... new one can be worst ....As rubjonny said try some others ones until you find one working
Appreciate the response mate. So we concluded the ISV because the cars had an issue where it would take a long time to return to idle after revving. All vac pipes have been checked and a few fixed but didn’t seem to change anything. Have had the idle microswitch out and repaired using the guide from here and that fixed an erratic idle issue but not the slow return. Have had it plugged into VAG-COM since this new ISV but doesn’t seem to throw any codes. Admittedly the car seems more responsive with the new ISV but the lowest it seems to go is 1300 rpm ish and seems to prefer being at 1500 with occasional moments sticking at 1800. Would you say this just sounds like a case of needing to try another ISV?
@rubjonny Hi, I'm done with that so i'm about to Maxxecu ECU mine for better overlook on everything. Think with this I will manage with more efficiency the ABF I''m already made the wiring diagram for CE2 junction with But now i'm struggle with the tuning part especially stock specs of the ABF such as the trigger angle, ignition crank angle i found a lot and all about that but nothing serious, I travelled on Megasquirt forum to find some on wiring and all for aftermarket ECU but .... Do you have some more for me please. Thanks
If you touched the idle switch you have probably messed up the tune. It was a pain in the ass to put it back on in good position for me to get 800rpm. The delay on idle rev looked like an watercoolant temp sensor default. Mine had done that before and ended up with engine cut when temp droped to fast, bad and erratic idling and reving, fuel consumption increase and bad AFR all time. But has you said no code error. So last possible cause is a air intake somewhere else. How about try to unplug ISV or coolant temp. you may notice some changing in rpm like increasing
