I own a golf mk4 2001 ARZ 1.8 20v turbo 150 bhp and need a new engine. Do I keep looking for the ARZ block (gold dust as far as i can see) or would anyone recommend using a different engone ie 180 bhp? If i were to do this would it run right or would it need/get away with a remap. My knowledge of these cars is terrible as im new on the vw scene chears chrissy
ARZ is a K03 turbo engine, you could get an AUM and strap the K03 on to it or just get the AUM with its K03s remapped using your original ECU. AFAIK the ARZ engine is a ME7 ECU with twin lambda's, wide band front and narrow band rear (Behind the kat), the software map in the ECU is a 1/2 mega map. This engine setup was only produced for about a year and a half then the MK4 was upgraded to another fews engine codes like the AUM. The main difference between the early ARZ engine and the later AUM engines was the ECU map size, EGT control and the K03s turbo. Having said that there has been a few AUM's turned up with K03 turbos. Do a search on the site for the 1.8T engine comparison chart. Basically you should be able to swap quite a few different engine short motors and keep the K03 turbo and standard map of your ARZ setup. The only issue i can think of just now would be you want an engine that has the oil pump driven of the crank by the chain, not the early set up has the pump driven off the jack shaft. Having said that you could probably get that to work if you had the necessary donor parts. One other issue would the latter 1.8T's have a solenoid controlled cam chain tensioner, this just needs swapped out with a non soleniod one. I am sure someone will keep me right on this
or just drop an agu in???? arent agu and arz fundamentally the same? agu arent rare really. how much is your car worth, is it worth the effort and expensie of swapping engines rather tahn buying another mkiv.
my mk4 is very clean in and out, f.s.h... well worth putting a engine in, ill get pics up once its running lol. arnt the AGU's 125 bhp??, mine is 150 mapped to 200 so i want 150 or 180 realy
AGU isnt DBY like my ARZ AUM is the same apart from the k03's. AUM with a remap?? what do you all think?
have you joined the forum on uk-mkivs.net? thgere is wealth of information there. also there is an agu complete with clocks etc in the classifieds
I understand what you mean now after looking at that chart via the net, well some of it lol AUM with my K03 and a remap looks promising! how much is a reasonable price to pay for a AUM? id like 80,000m max
So were agreed that i need a AUM? are the turbo's bigger on AUM's? 220-230 sounds good to me. My golf has a miltec stright through system,k&n and a cold air induction pipe putting the k&n behind the front bumper
AUM runs a K03S turbo, which flows more freely than a K03. With a Milltek and a K03S, you'll expect to see 210bhp. The K&N won't make any significant difference to the power, possibly 2 or 3 more.
AUM (150PS) engines share the same turbo 06A145713D as the AUQ code(180PS) engine. This turbo is nicked named 'KO3S' and is part number 5303 988 0053 or 0058. The AUM engine runs on a ME7.x "torque based" ECU just as the ARZ, hence the DBW set up, but has a different inlet camshaft to work with the VVT chain adjuster. ARZ engine is really an AGU code, but set up to run the new ME7 controls due to EOBD becoming active in 2001. The clue to that is the upstream and catalyst monitor HEGOs. I have tested and mapped a few 5303 based vehicles, both 'K03 and K03S' and the difference on the 'K03S' unit is the abilty to carry torque of approx 200lbft higher in the rev range at less presure . The 5303 970 0011 aka K03, can be spiked to 200lbft@16-20psi at 3500rpm then run out of huff soon after (6psi6500rpm). The turbo from the later 150-180PS spec engines 53039880053/58 tends to hold 200lbft (at 12psi) to 4500 then slowly drop off to 150lbft at 7000rpm@10psi. Spiking this turbo to 18psi makes no difference to torque at the peak power point ( still at 10psi). This is why the advice is to switch the a complete AUM motor then get someone to perform a OBD port reflash. Hope this helps.
I own a mk4 GTi 20vt ARZ which has a extended pipe for the air filter re-located behind the front bumper, it sucked up some water causeing the car to cut out, after oil&filter,plug change it run lovely apart from the oil light coming on when it got to running temp at low revs, 3 seperate garages looked at it and after 3 oil pressure checks that were fine they all said electrical fault...nothing to worry about and recommended a oil ment for my car, after 2 weeks of driveing there was a sudden knocking coming from the engine and within seconds it brought itself to a stop almost like i was breaking. my guess was the oil pump giving up. however for the last month i have repeatedly had to pull the clutch peddal off the floor before driving and am wondering if there is a chance something is wrong with the flywheel or something. Thanks for your replies, I have PM some of you. THIS IS WHAT ORIGINALLY HAPPENED TO MY CAR OVER THE PAST MONTH/ A MESSAGE I SENT TO PERFORMANCE GARAGES I own a mk4 GTi 20vt ARZ which has a extended pipe for the air filter re-located behind the front bumper, it sucked up some water causeing the car to cut out, after oil&filter,plug change it run lovely apart from the oil light coming on when it got to running temp at low revs, rev it past 2000 rpm and the oil light went out, 3 seperate garages looked at it and after 3 separate oil pressure checks that were fine they all said electrical fault...nothing to worry about and recommended a oil ment for my car- fully synthetic, after 2 weeks of driving there was a sudden knocking coming from the engine and within seconds it brought itself to a stop almost like i was breaking. my guess was the oil pump giving up. however for the last month i have repeatedly had to pull the clutch peddal off the floor before driving and am wondering if there is a chance something is wrong with the flywheel or something. haveing said that... bad knocking with or without my foot on the clutch(sometimes wont turn over) How much would it be for you to carry out the works needed on my golf? Thanks Chrissy
Oil pumps do go on these. Probably due to people not reating a turbo motor with care. Regular oil changes and fully synthetic is essential. I pulled an oil pump off a mates TT. It was clogged with cooked oil. Maybe you could check the big ends, change the oil pump instead of the whole engine. Clutch pedals can snap at the point where it presses on the master cylinder. Common fault.
ok, chears, Ive been offerd a ARZ by- http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/torque_spares?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1181 by with 71400miles for 740 delivered. is this a good price/ the correct price to be paying??
You'll always pay a premium when buying from the trade. Depends whether it comes with any kind of guarantee, as well as whether it comes with the gearbox etc. Delivery will set them back 50-70, so if you're happy to pay about 670 for a replacement engine, then do it. 71,400 miles, you would be well advised to change the cambelt, tensioner and water pump on it before it goes in - it's a lot easier to change with the engine out. They'll need doing aty 80k miles anyway.
