There's a bloke in Glasgow reckons he's got one for 20. Could be a little detour on the next trip North.
Doesn't sound like it's running too bad if it reached that on your private test track . Daved is your man for Audi 80 cv joints, he has a big database of them from somewhere.
It was still pulling (gently) - I didn't want to push my luck though, with a car I barely know, and a rumbling CV joint.
Anyone know what size of injector puller I need for these old TDI injectors? What other essential tools should I be buying as a new TDI owner? I see things like injector taper tools to ensure a seal at the injectors. Do I need any special tools to change the alternator belt (I notice that it's pretty frayed)? I'd have just stuck my hand in to see if I could move the tensioner, but it was all a bit hot at the time Are locking tools essential for changing the timing belt?
Mike. SKF CV Joint part number: VKJA 3019 Check the price as I am interested, and none of the SKF agents have bothered to answer my e-mails! Torque for M14 = 120Nm + 1/4 turn. Dave.
Locking tools are essential for doing the timing belt properly and ensuring it's done right. Theres a guide on the right way to do it here, http://www.tdiclub.com/articles/A3-TimingBelt/ Injector puller is a slide hammer with an m14x1.5 attachment on it. When replacing injectors make sure you buy new sealing washers or I guess you could re anneal the old ones if you want to save a few pence. Unless the audi is different the alternator belt is just on a sprung loaded tensioner which you can just lever back to slacken the belt.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Timing-Belt-L...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aac1292cc This is what you need although, the pin can be replaced with a drill bit of the right size if you have one. And the camshaft lock plate could be replaced with a piece of sheet steel the right size. Both shown here on the right, with dimensions in inches. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=148798 Tensioner can just be tensioned with a pair of circlip pliers.
GSF do CV joints at 40 a go. There's a guy on the same farm/estate as my unit has an Audi 80 TDI spares car... hoping to chat him up about swapping bits around to diagnose the problems. Can't believe how much time I'm spending in the diseasel section
Mike I have a 3rd injector in my garage, missing the banjo bolt. Car it was from ran ok, but it has been in bubble wrap for the past year. Want it posted?
@ Aidanb22 - Awesome! You have PM! I don't suppose you have a pair of driveshafts kicking around too, do you? @ Daved - no idea on the supplier. Pattern tat will suffice though, as long as it lasts a few years. It's not going to get a lot of hard use.
Hi Al - that would be great. I've asked the guy to dig it out of his shed and dust the cobwebs off. I'm trying to find out which end of Glasgow he's at. Where would you be heading from? Cheers Mike
Feck Mike. Just realised that yours has roof rails? I was going to sell you some pukka Audi 'Aero' Bars uber cheap!
You shall see. I am going to put them up for sale. When I find them. They are in a box somewhere? They are uber lightweight aluminum and have a CD lower than a **** 96! (CD = Coefficient of Drag: For youngsters who think CD is a shiny disc with Punk Music on it)
Sorry to report, Dave, that youngsters don't buy CDs any more... it's just old farts like me who by tangible music formats
Closer to the east end the better but it's not a problem to pick it up anywhere in Glasgow really. Al
More dumb questions? Can I run this on biodiesel without straining the fuel pump? If I can, do I need to change the fuel filter a bit more often? I'm up for saving the money, but not if it means changing the fuel pump every year. What's the best sort of oil to run in these. The Opie Oils site seems to thing that 10w40 Semi Synth is fine (Synta Silver or equivalent). Any thoughts?
Synta Silver is all it needs vag 505.00 spec, although I run mine on platinum as it's not much more. Bio Diesel is run by many but problems come with varnishing of injectors over time apparently. You really need to run a dual tank kit and purge the system of oil after every journey etc. Loads of talk on tdiclub.com about it's for and againsts.
