How do I change the Wax stat on my carb. I have a 1.6 Mk2 and mine is a bit nackered and I think its time to sort out my carb. Have a Pierberg 2E2.... Is it easy or hard to do and is there a step by step guide for this? Please! just looked at GSF, is this what I need 8243 THERMO WAXSTAT VALVE General Use. Fits All 2E2 Carburettors With 10mm Hose Conns 26.50
waxstat you need to check the carb FAQs and take the inlet manifold off. to do this you need 5 or 6mm hex socket about 150-200mm long, torch, hand mirror, patience. check out this link to see what bit you need to get to. http://www.dubscene.net/eva2/EE01/index.html on a gti there is 6 bolts you need to undo and they're arkward to get to
The waxstat is the part called the "Expansion Element" in the FAQ diagram (exploded view). It's on the front of the carb facing you and has a couple of hoses connected to it. It's very easy to change - undo the clips holding the hoses on and a couple of screws and swap it over. Actually, I'm not sure what comes from GSF (that part you mention sounds right). You might only need to undo the screws and swap over the internal bit. I don't actually have one on mine, so I'm a little hazy now on how it's made up. I know one person who'll know though.....
Yep I do too and I am just waiting for him to post.......lol Cool, well I am planning on doing it this weekend! Mine is driving me crazy at the moment! Is it worth chainging the Vaccume hosing at the same time?
Zat me or rubjonny? I'd trust him a hell of a lot more than me just now... Been trying to fix my girlfriend's Vauxhall Omega for the last few weeks, and everything I do seems to make it worse! Anyway, what I know about waxstats... I got mine from GSF, can't remember the part number, but just match it up as best as poss with your engine size/year etc. They supply genuine Pierburg parts. The only thing that you should maybe check additionally is the I/D of the water hoses, there are some that are 10mm, some 12mm, and waxstats to suit either IIRC. As gbk says it's just two crosshead screws that hold it on to the carb, though the lower one's a little hard to access, beware of rounding heads off. The water hoses come off with very little coolant loss 'cos it's all so high up in the system (do it cold though!). What misbehaviour are you trying to correct by changing the waxstat? Edit: yeah, get some genuine vac hose from VW and change every bit (just over a metre reqd, in my experience) Pete
Mine Idles really high for a very long time and then suddenly not anymore. Over the last few weeks even when its been hot its been idling like a so and so. then all of a sudden she's fine. The garage where she was serviced suggested it and so did some guys on the forum. I just do think that its working properly.......... Does this sound right?
When you say really high, what is that? 2500 - 3000ish? When it's running high, how far extended is your pull down unit rod thing? (that's a technical term BTW!). What about when it's running fine? What I'm getting it is that it's possibly a TTV issue. Are all the wires connected up at the back right hand side corner?
Yeah, new waxstat should offer some relief from this problem. It's very likely that the ultimate cause is the coolant channel o-ring being partly of fully blocked (as ambrose89 was thinking), which I believe hastens the death of waxstats, but that's a much bigger ordeal to fix. So worth the 30 or so for a new waxstat as an interim fix at least IMHO. How hot does the autochoke housing get when the engine's up to temp? Should be almost untouchable... Edit: good point Mr gbk, worth checking for bust wires all round the carb, including the earth strap.
The 2 bolts are tricky to reach unless you have an angle screwdriver, but you can lift the whole carb off the inlet its only held on with 3 bolts. Thish makes access much easier! But usually this fault is caused by the o'ring in the inlet rather than the waxstat, take your old one off and drop it in a pan of boiling water. If the pin extends then its working fine! They can get sluggish with age, the above treatment sometimes resets them. Though they should get 'reset' every time the engine gets to temperature, unless of course the o'ring is blocked Best way to check o'ring performance is after a 5 minute run, feel the carb. It should be completly boiling hot, if its not then the o'ring is shafted!
Cool. Will check it out. I just want it to run better.... As far as I remember with out going out in the rain all the connectors are plugged in. It revs at about 2100 for a long time then all of a sudden.... drops down. I bought recenlty a carb service kit that came with loads of gaskets and some o rings, the O ring that you speak of, would it have been included in the set ir do I need a seperate one and how hard is it to change?
No, the o-ring being discussed won't be in the service kit, 'cos it's nothing to do with the carb per-se, just the source of its hot water feed. It's only a pound from gsf, but the change, unless it goes unusually well, will be painful in many ways...
probably not, the o'ring is located between the inlet manifold and head, the job isn't the easiest due to the awkward location of the bolts holding it on. Check my FAQ post for more details on it, the o'ring procedure is at the bottom
Great!!!? Well I am looking at chainging the Waxstat this weekend and the suspension... providing the rain stays away. If I still got problems then will investigat even furthur!! One thing it does do is when I turn the key off it splutters to a stop.. like a stall really. Does it occasinally but is doing it more often now...
Yeah i got that too, was caused by massive carbon build up due to the o'ring mentioned above For now, run the engine till its hot then trickle water down the carb flap, hold the revs up to 2k or so and stop when the engine sounds like its about to die. Pour about a pint in, then you should see a nice black sooty stain behind the zaust, no more carbon
So I can use just any water...... and pour it in... what about carb cleaner... that was suggested to me too
ah dont be a bunch of girls I also sprayed half a tin of carb cleaner through it, that helped a great deal Just be happy you have a carb, doing the trick on an injection model isn't so easy
Don't think there's a smiley for "curtseying", but I just did one... Never had any shutdown issues though, so I can't be too coked up ('cept between the ears). I'll second jonny's comment about injection cars, I'm rapidly learning to feck'n hate em Full immersion in a river may be the water trick I do soon.
Yeah for sure!! Will have a look out for some carb cleaner and wil do the wax stat!! Will let you all know how it works out!!! Cheers guys!
