yeah sorry got my wires crossed. i thought the wax stat was in the inlet manifold, but thats the o ring isnt it?. so wax stat is more expensive and easier to change. coolant o ring is cheap and difficult to change?.
Ok, so I just went for a little spin... drive for about 20mins then stoped and felt the carb. It felt cold, however when you look at it head on, on the right hand side there is a device that had some pipes coming out if it and that was flipping hot!!! It sat on the side of the carb. Is that right?
Flipping hot is good news indeed! That's the autochoke water housing I was referring to. So your coolant flow can't be too impeded. Waxstat alone may sort out your problem. But do double-check all the wiring, especially the relatively inaccessible connectors towards the rear left of the carb as you look into the engine bay from the bumper. There are some rubber hoods on the back of the connectors that can be carefully peeled back to reveal the state of the wires. What age is the car again?
As you can see from my sig., mine's 16. I think the closure of the o-ring is very age related, mine was only about 40% shut, I estimated at the time. The condition of the wiring is similarly gonna be worse the older it is, so you're probably in quite a good position. Edit: Oh, no! I've gotta disagree with rubjonny again... There's precious little in the way of direct heatpaths from the coolant heated stuff into the main body of the carb (rubber flange under it, choke housing only held on at three small points, waxstat may be in a plastic housing, the new ones are). There is of course the Part-throttle channel heater putting a constant few watts of heat in, but the cooling effect of all the fuel/air going through the carb will keep the main body at a reasonable temperature. I'd guestimate mine averages 35C, and that's with a super-duper new o-ring.
Yep, I got my left and right mixed up. The TTV is on the left, not the right as I mentioned earlier. My TTV just had a couple of wires with mangled spade connectors on the end which kept falling off. The electric switchover valve had a proper two pin plug though (that's the other bit just above the TTV).
Chances are, giving the age of the cars now, it's a 'not'. Whether it's bad enough to cause the problems you describe is debatable though. I would check the length of the rod on the left side of the carb when it's running fast to give more clues. This pushes the throttle plate open giving higher revs and is independent of the autochoke and waxstate (AFAIK).
the sudden drop in revs from 2000 to normal is classic symptoms of TTV issues. You can check this however. when the carb is doing its thang and the engine is revving its nuts off (but at least 30seconds after a cold start), pop the bonnet open and check whether or not the throttle position is controlled by the moving piston (3/4 point unit). If the throttle lever is resting on the piston then 99% sure its the TTV or the supply of elec to the TTV at issue. If there is a clearance between the lever and the piston then its not the TTV and the waxstat (or coolant supply to the carb is the issue). I'm pretty sure it's the TTV from what you describe, have a look-see. The TTV should get 12v at all times the ignition is on.
