Dave's Mk2 Refurbishment - 500 mm^2 Primer! - 26 June

They are the early ones John. Later ones are easy to spot has they have 3 small holes along the front edge to mount plastic deflectors!

Those are rustier than the ones off the wreaked PB! The original one I have just taken off is fairly rust free.

P.S. Is this thread in the correct forum sub-section John? Should it be is members gallery where beetie is showing his re-build?

 

Need to get the engine out safely and be able to drop the subframe.
I was supporting the car on wooden blocks under the subframe, but now need blocks for the javking points.

The Wolf drill is 50 years old and still superb. It is one of the best designs ever.
Superb quality plastic body that is really easy to grip.
Aluminium gear box with big steel gears carried on ball bearings.
Two speed electronic on the button. One of the first ever with electronic control.











Now it's safe I took out the power unit. The hoist is a 2 cwt chain hoist that I made as an apprentice at Laycocks.











I bought possibly the last ever boot some years ago for just such a day!







The most upsetting thing about the car is the paintwork on the passenger side.
It had been bent on the front of the rear wheel arch. The idiot who bodged it used crap filler and crap paint.
The filler was about 15mm thick in places and had cracked away allowing water behind it.
The paint was so poor it peeled off in sheets!
I repaired the damage by making an oak former the correct curvature and jacked it behind the panel.
With gentle warming and planishing I got the panel back pretty close to original.
The only filler is high build primer. The new paint is a cheap aerosol.

The most stupid thing the idiot did was to mask up over the black trim and then cut the masking tape with a blade.
So, now there is a line of rust where the paint was cut.















As I mentioned before I need a new proper down-pipe as the one that came off is a bit naff.










I can't really use the one from the PB as it is partly modified to VWMS spec for a 60 mm dia system.

OR

Should I build a complete 60 mm system. Mulmuff is just down the road and they will build an aluminised system in 60 mm.

 

What sort of mig welder do you have ?
I've got a Clark te 165 kicking about it's not 100% but I'm sure you could sort it
But if you don't like ****e Clarke stuff no worries lol
Looking good , it's a couple of years since I chopped a 2 door shell that had good inner wings but I didn't keep them just sills,roof and rear quarters lol

 

Good to see you back at it Dave!

Sam

 

To see beyond the rust,
A true engineer's lust.
Pedantic to me and you,
Exactness his virtue.

Will old drill in hand,
Wolf electonic by brand.
A wooden block and mind,
Treasured wisdom of this kind.

Wrinkled age he will restore,
Inpired by his drive and lore.
Our hearts and minds are sold,
His story vibrant, charming and bold.

Its Dave the precision king,
He knows how to do his thing.
With each small nugget told,
Our club gilded with gold.

 

Feck blis I am overwhelmed and honoured!

 

Ta so Mike. But I am OK for a welder. The MigMate is 35 + years old. I bought it for prepping the rally SAAB 96s.

 

Ta so sSon.

I might actually use the ones from the 1987 PB!?

You will note I once painted them red!

 

Ready for a de-rust and a new battery tray.





I recon that when they built this shell the operators must have tried to put as much seam sealer and shutz on as they could! It certainly has a lot more gobo on than the 1987 PB!

The angle grinder is also about 35+ years old. It is a Wicks own brand. These were a reasonable price back-in-the-day when such items were not so common and usually quite expensive.
It really is a good machine. I have used it a lot and it has outlasted two other 4 1/2" machines. Like the Wolf drill it is made from really comfortable high-impact plastic and has a full ball bearing system.

 

Amazing how a bit of sun and warm weather can make us feel motivated

 

Not sure that applies in my case Mike? Lots of good weather in the last couple of years did not get me motivated.
In fact just the opposite and that's why you now own the VWMS stuff!

I have just spent a month in Bahrain sorting Ruth's Honda Jazz front suspension and building a pergola! The warm 40 deg C temperatures had a massive de-motivating effect!
I could only work from 06.00 to 09.00 and from 16.00 to 18.00 when it was only about 30 deg C!

 

Good to see you getting stuck in sDa Now if only some of that could rub off on me to get my @rs3 in gear to fix my mk2

 

Hey up me luverly laddo.

You have a 2012 GTI S to play with! Whatever that is?
You have a job and a young family so in fairness you have no time to spare on a hobby!

Me:
I have a house to finish, but can't be ar5ed.
I have fields to cut, but can't be ar5ed.

I have the Mk2 to sort and can be ar5ed. Because when the Mk2 is back on the road I won't have to used Lainey's Mk4 25J.
Plus. When the Mk2 is out of the garage the 90Q 20v will be taking it's place and that is what I really want to drive.

Miss you.
sDa.

 

Besides working on the Golf I am also fixing Ruth's KitchenAid espresso machine. It had sprung a leak on the steam boiler joint which caused massive corrosion on the body and eventually burnt out some electrics. I started in Bahrain but one of the bolts was so corroded it sheared, so I brought it home. Lainey can return it is September.
These cost about 700 so well worth the effort!



I am also re-furbishing our bikes. Lainey's Peugeot is ready, mine just needs the SPD mechanisms on the pedals re-building. Trouble is I have lost one of the screws and it is an unusual type. M5 but with a very small c/sunk head. You can't buy these on their own but only as a kit @ 3.99 per set.
I have converted it from 21 speed to 27 speed and have had to modified the real derailleur by fitting long guide arms.

 

Dave, is yours a reynolds tubed frame? Nice old school CrMo is hard to beat... i miss my marin and wish I had it here with me. And glad you agree that too hot a climate is just as bad as too cold. The peugeot has nice rims.

 

Hi Blis.

I am better in colder than hot climates.

The Raleigh is a titanium main frame with Reynolds forks and rear frame. The bars are also titanium.
The Peugeot is and ex-works frame made from Columbus 'Thron' tubing.
The wheels on my bike are Campagnolo on XTR hubs. Lainey's are Shimano bought as a complete wheel. My rims are about 0.500 kg lighter!

 

I completely re-furbished the rear callipers back in 2013 before the health issues cropped up.

Here's how to do it better than original.

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...rbish-in-Pictures-Page-1-Completed-18-10-2013

 

I also re-furbished the fuel pump/accumulator system some years ago.

 

Not done much of late as I have had flu followed by a bad chest. Still coughing up crap!

So, I have done very little outside and have mainly worked on the espresso machine and bikes.

What I have done is.

Cleaned off most of the seam sealer and shutz from the offside wing. It a bu99er of a slow job!
It's not going to be easy to get the stuff off the inside of the suspension tower!



I've got most of the corroded steel from the top of the inner wing and made a paper template for the first repair plate.
I shall not bother to cut all of the rust out and rely on cavity protection fluid to seal inside.







The engine/gearbox was not in a good orientation to dismantle so I made a stand to stabilise it.
I can then more easily move the engine, gearbox and separate parts up to the barn workshop.





Even though I am not far into the Mk2 re-furbish I keep my eyes open for bits I need for the 90Q 20V.
I have been looking for a tubular manifold for ages. They are not common and usually about 350.

Found this beauty on ebay for 110. Still looking for a carbon fibre prop-shaft and a Motometer 10,000 tacho..