DTA S40 pro wiring loom help.

Hi, this is my dta wiring loom which I bought from harnessing solutions. Its pretty much plug and play, except for 3 wires which I would like to know exactly where they go. I have an idea, but would rather ask and know for sure instead of risking blowing the ecu. The wires are, red switched +ve, bat+ve and bat-ve.

Thanks in advance, David.

 

There you go David

Any questions please ask.

Regards

Ed.

 

Does it matter?

He says he is building a 2.1 ABF on Jenveys (ITBs)

The explanation that was given would suit most older VW vehicles for DTA ECU integration.

 

Thanks Eddie. Where is the ignition KL15 wire? Does the battery live go direct to the battery terminal? Reason i ask is it looks abit thin compared to the battery negative, which is alot thicker and has a round end on it.

 

Its a 1989 16v.

 

It is the black wire that supplies the coil.

Alternatively there should be a 2 pin connection with black/yellow and red/yellow coloured wires over by the blower intake. You can use the black/yellow to power the ECU on ignition on and the red/yellow to trigger the fuel pump relay.

The earth is thicker as it is the path for all the driver stages and sensors in the ECU.

Battery live can be picked up from the battery yes.

 

The ECU is labelled to be fool proof to the user.

So if it is being installed in a Nissan, Mitsubishi, BMW or Ford, it can be easily integrated to the vehicle's system.
In this case I knew the OP was referring to a VW but his question referred to the wire function as per DTA S40. I have labelled his to explain the function of the wires. and put in references to the german connections points.

I appreciate you do electrical work, but likewise I have been doing this a very long time.

 

You mean you never tried that path? I am not looking at diagram but merely suggesting, based on my WOLF R that is supplied like this.

 

The question on 'Klemme 15' or terminal 15 is a follow on from the DTA specific question. I have already addressed this.

I have maximum respect for the OE automotive wiring diagram systems, but when you test/tune and integrate multiple vehicle ECUs or have concerns when mapping, you very quickly learn the other channels to pick up supply feeds when a diagram is not available.
That is what I am doing here.

 

Thanks Eddie & RJ. Think ive got ot now. Very new to all this and doing it all on my own. Except for all the help ive had from this club. I bought the dta and jenveys etc from a member on here, but it didnt have any instruction manual with it. Thanks again.

 

That would be black/yellow (sw/ge) not ge/sw. Your explanation refers the KR stabilization unit return voltage from throttle switch. We are talking about the integration DTA S40 SEM unit.
As said this is how my WOLF R is wired to supply +12v to the ECU and prevent me from going inside to the fuse box.
Alternatively without a diagram in front me, G28OPN can just use KL15 for switched ECU live, no biggie.

 

No worries.
If there are any other question about the ECU or it's integration please ask

 

Another question, for the both of you, will i benefit from using a lambada sensor?

 

Having done this myself from a similar startpoint, this all seems unnecessarily complex.

In laymans language:

• Run direct to the battery ideally or find a spade-clip earth, any chassis earth in the fusebox area and connect to it. Tick.
• Then for the "switched +ve", either run a feed up to the black coil wire, else pull that wire through the bulkhead into the fusebox area, shorten to requred length, and securely connect to it. Tick.
• And for the "Bat +ve", something is missing here. Why does a standalone ECU need continuous live? Unless the S40 ECU requires continuous feed for logging purposes, it needs to be another "switched" - and fused - live which personally I would run through a relay, having hunted down a positive terminal on the fusebox and tested for live status (ignition key on/off). Tick.
  • + add relevant fuse to that line.

For fused relays, previously Ive taken relay blocks from a fuseboard (they unclip) and added it to the existing fuseboard. Add clip-on fuseblock on top for an OEM finish