Discussion in 'Tools, Equipment & Fasteners' started by Admin, Jun 3, 2007.
quality i will be doing this myself for the smaller items
Read a thread on retro rides and a guy on there used carbon rods as the anode instead of the lump of iron.
It would be a slightly more expensive set up as we would have a brake disc lying around, but no carbon rods.
Looking at it the derusted parts come out cleaner needing just a quick scrub.[emoji106]
Found a good link for it. All be it a ford one(sorry)
Great for nice clean car bits.
copper piping works well too
I think I remember reading that copper causes toxic fumes
Do you reckon this would work in something like an inflatable paddling pool?
I'm thinking of dropping my whole rear beam in and can't really think of anything else big enough to do it all at once.
You don't have to do it all at once can do half at a time with no lines as only dissolves the oxidised metal
Another option would be draping thick polythene over 'things' laying the beam squashed milk cartons or similar to stop it poking through. This way you can get tighter to the shape of the beam and keep the volume of fluid down. Personally I probably go for Deox C now it cleans microscopically better and there's a lot less to do afterwards. If you don't have much knocking about CLS timber is cheap and radiused ideal to form the top edge.
Just read the carbon rod link that is awesome lol
The carbon rod seems to cure any difficult cleaning afterward parts look brilliant after a wash with water
I'll have to see if I can find a carbon rod to try it on small scale, but it seems to still come out jet black. Those stub axles I did look shiny yet there was always endless black in the tiny pores that could be drawn out with further brushing and wiping with white spirits.
Not done this yet so you're more of an expert them me lol
Guy in ford thread says just washes off with warm water you can always go to the next step on any thing you do in life it's just wether you can be bothered or not and how far you want to go
If it converts it back to iron, is there any point in coating it in rust killer after electrolysis?
Can I get away with zapping it then going straight in with some primer and paint?
The oxidized metal flakes off leaving good metal underneath, the oxidized metal turns black and is flaky and breaks up easily and falls away from the good metal,it may need a little scrape or wire brushing to remove but the process does not convert the rust into good metal.
Separate names with a comma.