right but !!!!!!!!!!!!! if you have a shorter shaft you equal the angle from one side to t'other!!!!!!!!!! (bangs head on wall) god damn it! [:^(]
But to get the same angle you need the same length - the syspension setup is symetrical you know And the mk2 doesnt use left hand thread on the opposite shaft
Thanks Andy so you shorten the "angled" section of the long shaft by adding straight section or modded transfer box..... phew....I think we made it. einstein was right I think I can now clearly see the back of my own head.......
ahhh i get ya, a straight bit so the point the driveshafts connect to is the same length. sort of widening the diff. Interesting idea, I can see how it would work, but then no idea how you would go about it, unless you made it all yourself and welded the bearing to the block, I suppose. Isnt the shorter of the drivehsafts hollow to allow it to twist more and counteract the effect? If you're going to go all that way to making them equal length, might as well have some driveshafts made up to suit. probably cheaper than the actual redesigning of things youre talking about.
that's the one. prob not worth all the effort unless youve got mega torque and mega budget but like I said, just a thought! I'm trying to think where I've seen it before.......but this was by the manufacturer not DIY....
quaife make an extension tube to allow equal lenght drive shafts to be used, you can see it on page 9 of their '04 catalogue or fitted to a box here 295 + vat
good point just had another look in the catalogue, they do a bell housing for the 4 cyl vw engine, so it's an option to fit BUT a box,shifter,drive shafts & extension tube,digital gear indicator and a plate diff will cost in the region of 11,000 at least the above pic gives an idea of what the extension tube looks like should anyone want to have a go at making one. i don't think it would be too hard to knock up a prototype, the old long driveshaft could be cut to lenght, weld a spare gearbox flange to one end to bolt the shorter driveshaft too, the old inner CV joint could be stripped of all the bearings etc and the case with the 6 bolt holes be welded to the cut drive shaft to allow it to be bolted to the gearbox. might be a bit crude and heavy, but would serve the purpose. might have a play with one of the old driveshafts i've got kicking about over the winter. Edited by: steve r
astras use a short dummy driveshaft like that quaife pic the 4x4 boxes have equal ish length shafts, but I don't think it's a huge problem, just needs very accurate suspension setup to cure most of the torque steer TT reports very little on his compound charged beastie
yeah but who knows what TT has done with the supsension and gearbox eh? The suspension on that thing is hardly standard mk2, and I dont just mean the coilovers, I mean the geometry (going from memory here, but I'm pretty sure I remember seeing things, I mean it would be daft not to change it when you have spaceframed the front end!) My rado G60 used to torque steer, I remember it well. I think thats one of the things thats better about the rallye (didnt think it at the time, was more a general yeah this feels better overall thing), like ya say the transfer box means the driveshafts are more or less equal length.
clever boys.......... tt you're too smart fella. ok guys looks like I wasn't talking out of my anus after all (I'm as surprised as everyone else)..... If it could be done maybe it would benefit those 2wd fellas with standard-ish geometry.....
The extension to the drive flange would just need to be a solid connection with the correct fixings at each end (removed from a scrap gearbox and driveshaft). Probably cheap to get Reco-Prop to make it up and easy to fit it. It'd be good to see if it made much of a difference on some of the higher-powered FWD cars.
I think it would be easier to do your method than changing the geometry tbh, darnold - TT has his whole engine sitting lower for this very reason (and others) as I understand it Edited by: Jeff
thing is would it bend on load, if it wasnt stiff enough? (oo err) - thereby negating any effect of having it... IMHO it cant be any cheap exetension, its got to be strong enough not to bend...
It's gotta be mega strong IMO. I think the materials for making it up would come to a hell of a lot, then it's gotta be made up perfectly. Slightly out os qquare and bye bye diff bearing, seals, oil then box. Can't say that i suffer with my car, even with 1.5 of negative and the quaiffe ready to pull you all over the place.
If it bends on load then your engine's going to be bending the longer one that's on there as standard and you've probably got bigger problems than just torque steer. Reco-Prop aren't going to misalign a simple shaft like that when they weld it.
get the extension block machined to the exact difference in lenths between the long and short d/s, just match the existing bolt holes/threads and use two short d/shafts. Civic Type R's have two different shafts that are made up at different diameters so they twist at the same rate.
