Erratic Revs, Spluttering and cut out. Mk2 1.6 1984 Golf EZ

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Djslater81, Nov 2, 2016.

  1. nhoj62

    nhoj62 Forum Member

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    i still have the swirl pot on mine
    not had an issue with it other than when the lines degraded, had little bit of muck float about in the fuel then
    so having done the lines and clean everything out, mine is now back to behaving itself (touch wood)
    as for your idle issue have you checked all your VAC lines, any holes in them will cause that sort of thing to happen
     
  2. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    I've checked the all Vac lines and none are damaged or come disconnected in anyway, they were replaced when I did the rebuilding of the carb. I know it's something to do with that as everything else is in good order all that was changed on the carb was the gasket and the jets before hand it was running okish compared to how it is now. To be honest I don't have much history on the carb as to wether it was a brand new one fitted or a second hand one when I bought the car. I will be changing it though but until then I want to at least get it running fine without the fear of it breaking down, hesitating or refusing to start after driving
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    plenty weber guys run without them anyway, so no worries taking it off temp just to see if it helps. if it does try refitting it with a restrictor in the fuel return as I say
     
  4. nhoj62

    nhoj62 Forum Member

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    jonny
    what does this restrictor look like?
    cheers
    john
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    tbh I've not looked, I sold my 1.6 years before I knew they even had one :lol:

    should look like a plug of some kind with a small hole in it, I had the oem size written down somewhere but as I say a welding tip pushed in cures the problem for most people, if they decide they want the reservoir rather than binning it entirely
     
  6. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    Hi Jonny.

    I've tried to restrict the return pipe (used an old carb jet similar to the one that used to be on the t-piece that Webers came with) but still getting the same problem as before. Even cleaned out the swirl pot (nothing but pure fuel) took it for a spin and it just wanted to die out so had to put the choke out to keep the revs up to prevent that from happening. So I'm sure it must be the carb that has a problem but as to what I really can't say.

    So far all the fuel lines in the car are clean and new in the engine bay) no vacuum leaks, the mechanical pump is new from heritage (second one and after testing the other no fault was found with that) carb has been rebuilt and new jets and filters fitted.

    I'm at a lose to be honest.
     
  7. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    Just out of curiosity would the heating element on the inlet manifold cause a problem if it's not working properly? I only ask as it's something that I may have overlooked.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2017
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sounds liek you might have an air leak, maybe double check the rubber flange just to make sure its not split. make sure the co is set correct as well

    I dont think it would be the inlet heater but easy enough to check if its got 12v when engien is cold, it does get very hot too apparently :lol:
     
  9. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    Hi Jonny,

    The rubber flange is in good condition with no splits & I done the simple checks like block airflow (cuts out as expected) and sprayed carb cleaner to see if there was any denoting within the idle speed on the manifold and baseplate and nothing was out the ordinary. I cleaned the spark plugs and also changed the air correctors for different ones (not the ones for a 1600) car idles fine but now backfiring when I rev to 2500 3000 rpms. Drive it around and still get the same heasitation as before.

    I'm still planning on changing to twin 40s anyway but would like to try and sort out this problem in the meantime in case it's something else and not the carb. On a different note is there any problems that I'm likely to encounter when I change to twin carbs in relation to fitting them. I've hear the master cylinder (brake booster) can cause fouling.

    Cheers.
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    possibly the pump is weak, what were you planning to do fuel wise for the 40s? maybe get that sorted now rather than later
     
  11. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    I'm planning on fitting a facet solid state fuel pump to run the 40s and use a malpassie filter and regulator the latter already being fitted. The pump that is currently on is new as I also thought the same thing as did the guy from the AA when it broke down last. I've taken the fuel line off and turned it over to make sure there was a good flow which there is (ran it into a bucket to make sure.) I'll try get the facet pump fitted and see if that makes a difference. Where would be the best place to mount it as I've heard under the car near the tank but as mine is lowered I don't want it being torn off by a speed bump. Also trying to figure out how to wire it so it only works when the ignition is on (engine running)

    Cheers.
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if it was me I would put a mk1/2 1.8 kjet 8v fuel relay in the stock slot, this will then be triggered by rev counter signal from the coil and cut out if you crash. feed the pump from E/14, or you could use the large spade N with an inline fuse instead.

    the mk2 pump sits near the rear beam in a well so regardless of how low the car is its not exposed :)
     
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  13. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    Thanks for the tip. I was originally going to wire it up to an oil pressure switch but the way you have suggested sounds a lot easier and less faffing about. I may have to pick your brain again Jonny if I get stuck but I'll check the Haynes manual also.

    Thanks

    Edit

    Does anyone know what jetting I would need for twin 40s in a 1600? Or where I can find that information?

    Ta
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  14. nhoj62

    nhoj62 Forum Member

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    re-reading jonny's posts i think he means the none return valve in the vac line as it comes off the side of the inlet manifold on its way the brake servo.
    the valve has two pins on it, one for the carb and one for the reservoir, the one for the reservoir is blocked off and only the one for the carb remains in place.
    the return line on the fuel is still needed do not block that off.
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I dont think I mentioned that valve I was mostly on about fuel side? might have missed something ion my older posts I suppose :lol:

    for the fuel return I suggest removing the swirl pot and blocking the return for testing, just to see if it helps. its a common 'fix' done by guys with fuel starvation issues on weber carbs, apparently without any kind of problem. Usually the reason it helps is the missing restrictor on the fuel return nipple on the pot, adding somethign back in usually sorts it. not here though, so maybe weak pump or theres some other problem.

    for the vacuum non-return 1 nipple on it used to feed the carb and vacuum reservoir, that gets blocked on the weber. the other nipple feeds the dizzy vacuum advance unit, which stays :)
     
  16. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    I'll try get a picture of my set up, up tonight just so everyone can see, but to describe mine I have the brake servo hose coming off the manifold then a valve with two nipples one to the carb and another to the dizzy then continues to the brake cylinder. The return has been restricted with a spare jet but that has made no difference, all vacuum lines are in good order along with the rubber flange the carb sits on, no vac leaks at all (it's tighter then a nuns bum) the other theory I have though of is carb icing which never really occurred to me until I spoke to someone at VWHERITAGE who suggested they symptoms sound similar but even he suggested it maybe something else. After a bit more research some of the symptoms I have had do appear similar to carb icing but want to be 100%.

    Still changing to 40s tho as I managed to get a good price for a brand new set built to spec for a grand total of 672

    If anyone can think of anything that may help I appreciate it. Thanks guys.
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    there shouldn't be any vac lines to the carb. if you've run it to the nipple on the back of the carb that could be it, as that nipple is actually for the warm air feed flap on the airbox which helps with carb icing. the other thing is you should have the old carb heater swapped over to the weber adaptor too to also help prevent icing.

    If you click the link in my signature look for 'weber.pdf' its a full install guide and should help make it clearer, plus this thread has lots of detail on the warm air system:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?144497
     
  18. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    Ahh this could explain the reason for the intermittent problems then. Unfortunately the conversion was done prior to me buying the car and the original air box was not fitted the previous owner had a foam one placed on which he cut so it would fit, I then got a K & N filter to replace it. I did get the air box off him but I think bits are missing for it (ain't really looked at it to be honest) so I should remove that vacuum line altogether and block both the outlet on the carb and the nipple on the other end?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the way it is now wont affect anything so i wouldnt worry for now, if you did get all the bits for the airbox sorted then fit it and redo the vac lines as above :)
     
  20. Djslater81

    Djslater81 Forum Member

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    I will run some tests over the weekend (permitting weather) I have added a photo of my current set up so you can see and also if I've missed something.


    https://www.flickr.com/photos/147939594@N08/shares/0471ea

    sorry about the link for some reason the upload feature on here doesn't seem to be working. the link is off my current engine setup. The foam filter is what the previous owner had done when i bought the car
     

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