few 2e/pb conv questions

Discussion in '8-valve' started by neil kaye, Feb 16, 2009.

  1. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    a mate is doing a 2e bottom with pb head conversion and we have a few questions
    1.will the 2e rocker cover fit on the pb head
    2.which head gaske do we need to buy 2e or pb
    3.any other issues we will run into

    weve done searches and theres loads of info but reall need quick answers,itl take ages to trawl all the info
    cheers
    neil
     
  2. i.a.n.b Forum Junkie

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    2e rocker cover will fit. Most people say to use abf head gasket as its metal. I used 2e on mine with no problems.
     
  3. nealey Forum Junkie

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    only issue with using the 2e rocker cover is that the breather is on the opposite side compared to the pb rocker so some pipe replumbing will be required.

    If you want a 2e style rocker cover with the breather on the correct side then you need to grab one from a g60

    Ian you sure its the ABF gasket as i think that only fits the 16v, its the G60 one i think you need to use on the 8v if you want a metal gasket but tbh a normal 8v gasket will be fine
     
  4. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    cheers chaps one other thing is the cam belt and pully do we get them for 2e
     
  5. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    the AGG gasket is steel too. same as abf
     
  6. G60KG

    G60KG Forum Member

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    I used an abf head gasket, no probs
     
  7. GarethMK2VR6

    GarethMK2VR6 Forum Member

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    You MIGHT need a pulley flange from the MK3 powersteering pump. Im sure i remember mine not quite sticking out far enough to be inline with the other pulleys. I used the 2E cam belt :thumbup:
     
  8. mk1tt16v Forum Member

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    i have just done this conversion on the weekend
    abf head gasket(elring from vw spares)
    2e cambelt
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    You need to check the rocker studs on the PB head, if they have shoulders then you need the MK2 rubber rocker gasket conversion kit from VW, as the shouldered studs wont work with a rubber gasket.

    ABF and 2e head gaskets both work, only difference is the ABF one is metal. Later 2.0 8v engines swapped over to the ABF gasket, its just you always quote 'ABF' if you want a metal gasket as there is no chance they'll sell you a fibre one (or they shouldn't as thats definitly wrong if so)

    If the 2e water and pas pump are used, all the belts you need are 2e ones from the year of the engine. If you use PB anxileries then you need MK2 ones. Regardless the cam belt you need is 2e, but tensioner is the same on both engines.

    The rocker will fit but as said breather/isv pipes need some tweaking, main issue is the FPR vac hose is very close to the head, so a rubber right angle piece is recommended. This is my effort:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    great info there guys very much appreciated
    we are taking the p.a.s off he doesnt need it so will we need a different belt,sorry for being a pain but not ver familiar with 8v especially doing this conversion
    anyone got a pic of the belts all set up with and without p.a.s
    thanks again all
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    no problem, the pas pump has its own belt so just unbolt all the pas pump, brackets and dont fit the belt, job done.
     
  12. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    ok dont need any pics now been to see the engine this evening,took a big end bearing off to see what there like,they look ok (will put a pic up)but have a few
    "questions"
    1.what is the tourqe setting for the B.E.Bearings.and mains
    2.the intermediate shaft on a 16v kr just drives the oil pump,on the 2e it looks like it drives the dizzy too,is there a timing mark on the pully,im assuming that it needs to be in a certain position when new cam belt is fit
    3.can i take the oil pump out without messing the dizzy settings (ign timing) up
    4.the splash guard that goes over the oil pick up pipe- i tried very carefully to remove,as i know on the valver is pretty much the same and can be quite brittle.i managed to break one of the claws,and dear not try the rest,,so is this guard really needed,if so how much are they and from where
    5.(god i could go on all night sorry) this is related to the 1st question,can we go by the torque settings on the mk2 manual,or do we need all the torque settings from a mk3 manual
    6.should the shells have std on like the 16v i cant see that but can see 9884,wondering if its had the crank ground

    thanks for your support
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2009
  13. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    1. Leave them alone - unless you think the engine needs rebuilt. Main bolts need to be replaced if you undo them. Torque figs are in the haynes - same as PB.
    2. Line up the timing marks on the pulleys - there's one on the intermediate shaft. You need the 2E dizzy too.
    3. Yes, if the timing belt is on.
    4. Yes, leave it alone, or fit a Windage tray instead. If it's lost 1 clip it'll be ok.
    5. Yes.
    6. Measure them with a vernier caliper - oh dear, you already undid the caps.

    In answer to previous questions on this thread....

    - the standard composite gasket will be fine. The ABF one is thicker, and will lose you some compression.
    - Use a rubber rocker cover gasket and the plain studs. The cork gaskets are a pain. Use whichever rocker cover you fancy, and the corresponding top cambelt cover, if you can get it to fit.
     
  14. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    thanks mike,yea we did just take one of the big ends out to have a look and the shells look ok,but didnt have std on them,will look at the int shaft for the timing mark i assume its a dot or a line,were using the rubber r/c/gasket and 2e head gasket
     
  15. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    these are ok arnt they
    [​IMG][/IMG]
     
  16. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Looks ok to me. I assume this is a road engine, rather than a screamer.
     
  17. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    a screamer? yea just a road car just wanted a bit more torque and tother engine wasnt soundin too good
    off to see it with the head off tomorow,his dad says he reakons its had a crank regrind,and the lip on the top of the cylinder walls are very small and can see honing maks? pic time again me thinks then ill post em up
     
  18. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    just noticed in post 13 on anwer 5 you put yes,is that a yes to we can use the mk2 manual or yes we need the mk3 manual
     
  19. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    mk2 manual will be fine
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    2. The sprocket marks are unimportant, just concentrate on the dizzy itself. Make sure the rotor arm lines up with the notch on the dizzy housing, this is close enough for it to run. You need to fiddle with the position using a timing gun anyway. Use my PB digifant FAQ (Assuming you use the PB engine managment as well) If its a k-jet then you'll have another problem in that you need a TSR dizzy adaptor to fit a k-jet dsizzy, plus the dizzy gear from the 2e needs swappin to the k-jet one.

    In addition to what mike says, the 2e cover will fit the MK2 head, you keep the 2e lower covers and use the 2e upper cover.
    This would be my choice as you have a handy cam sprocket timing mark cast into it, like the 16v covers, saves you messign about looking round the back lining the punch mark with the top of the rocker cover mounting face.
    If the PB sprocket does not have the correspondign 'O/T' mark take it off and fit the 2e one, or use the 2e one to make an O/T mark on the PB sprocket. Count the teeth round from the 2e inner punch mark and put the outer O/T mark in the right spot. It makes life so much easier timing it up later.
     

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