Thanks for the quick reply! The control pressure goes to 1.6 bar after one prime from the pump! here are the results from the rest 10 mins - dropped to 2.8 bar left a further 10 mins - dropped to 2.7 bar So i guess evrything is fine?
Excellent, just get her on the gas tester this afternoon, and then i am leaving that bonnet shut Thanks again, should get that in the post tomorrow - special delivery!
you can alter this this is known as the WUR mod which he has done. By the way I lent the gauge to kev cos he lives nearby and he's sorted me out with some parts in the past. I know he'll take good care of it and he's said he's posting it tomorrow special delivery. We've included some cash to cover your costs. Cheers
Hey no problem guys. On Q3 I wasn't referring to the pressure settings, I know that you can alter them, but to the time it takes for the heat of the engine/heating resistor to bend the bi metal strip :-) ie the warm up time.
I knew what yo meant Removed the gauge this afternoon and did the C0 - it was at 6.3% LoL Then i held my breath and took her for a spin - OMG what a difference, it's like a new car! instant power and so smooth! well happy, i found my other 8 valves I drove around with a big smile on my face!!! Big test will be in the morning, when she is cold! fingres crossed! Thanks again for the help!!
After everything was set up yesterday, she still did not tart on the button this morning, needed to hit the accelerator to start her and for around the first 2 minutes of driving when i put the clutch in the revs would drop to around 300 rpm, after 3-4 minutes everything would be fine! Anyone know why i am still getting this start up problem - is it pressure related? As was getting no fuel pressure when left overnight, is it the accumulator? Also i noticed when setting the C0 - when i disconnected the red lead it made no difference to the revs as when it was connected! still got 960 - 1020! connected or not??
What is the control pressure from stone cold ? Adjusting the warm control pressure will affect the cold control pressure as well, sounds to me like from cold the engine is being overfuelled with too low a control pressure. I have the same type of WUR on my 8V and with a little bit of tinkering was able to set both the lower (cold) and upper (warm) control pressure to bring it into spec for an 8V. In order to do this I also had to drift the spiggot that the bi metal strip is fixed to to alter the cold pressure, and then fine tuned the warm pressure with the allen headed screw. Hope this helps !!
Well from stone cold - not started the control pressure is 0.0bar - 0.1 bar - hardally anything! when i turn igntion on, the pump primes, the control pressure goes to 1.6 bar, then when i start it drops to 1 bar and then rises up to 3.4 bar - the 3,4 bar is the control pressure i set by turning the (hidden) allen key on the back of the warm up regulater! when you say "In order to do this I also had to drift the spiggot that the bi metal strip is fixed to to alter the cold pressure," does this mean you have to open up the wur? what should be the ideal cold control pressure for it to strart up fine?
Yes I had to open the WUR for this. The WUR was from a 5 cyclinder Audi so it had very different control pressures. Not sure of the correct cold control pressure for a 16V, but for an 8V it is :- At 10 deg c 1 bar At 25 deg c 1.6 bar At 38 deg c 2 bar To me your WUR sounds fine, need to start looking elsewhere. The next easy place to look is for leaky injectors, get them out and in jars, you can check the spray patterns as well. I cannot see it being the accumulator, because that just holds the pressure over the first 20 mins of switch off and then acts as a damper in the fuel system.
Thanks, that great on the ears that, as the accumulators are pricey and no doubt i would have to replace all the pipe work around it! I think it could be the injectors, i have not tested them as of yet, because as this is my daily drive i was to scared to pull them out in case the inserts on the manifold were f**ked, then it would be off the road untill i sorted it, but i have new injectors coming within the next 3 weeks, the merc ones, so hopefully this will fix the problem! Thanks for the help! much appreciated, i am posting your gauge today, not sure if special delivery works on a Sunday though??
Kev - I wouldn't bother swapping out the accumulator until you exhaust other options, check injectors as above, double check temp sender wiring, clean up ECU multiplug, earths to body and gearbox and all the other little things that can affect cold starts. The reason I say that is 'cos I swapped out my entire fuel pump assembly when I had similar problems with a known good pump, accumulator, fuel filter etc and it's a pain of a job plus you get covered in petrol and it didn't make any difference!
Thanks Stu, yeah that would be the last job i want to do, did a similar thing on my old 8V, fuel pump was making noises like a duck, so i git a brand new one, same damn thing - it was the one in the tank All earth are new, although i don't have one going to the bonnet, but this is just for radio interferance isn't ? I am still not convinced those senders are any good! - i will re-test them! - 200 omhz from cold aint they? I cleaned the ecu pins out not so long back, i know sometimes if i move it, i have no fuel pump, i just wiggle it and it's fine! - maybe that's my prob?
Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, I expect one of the wires in the ECU multiplug goes to the fuel pump relay which is probably why that happens. In any case, would be a good idea to sort that out as I'm sure a signal from one of those temp senders (blue/white wire off the top of my head) also goes to the ECU concerning cold starting, could also have a bad connection?
I checked the metering flap, it looked ok! It's like i have lack of fuel or an air leak, but only for around 10 seconds! on cold starts??? Stu, yeah i'll have to sort that,but all the pins etc were fine, maybe i need to clean them again, it's tricky to abraise them, i used a emry board thing, maybe i did not do it as good as i thought! Any thought on why it made no difference to the revs as when the red lead was connecte dor not- connected! or not I still got 960 - 1020! I just noticed that the red lead is in fact red & black - is this the wrong lead off the coil?
Bump - Any thought on why it made no difference to the revs as when the red lead was connected or not! I still got 960 - 1020! I just noticed that the red lead is in fact red & black - is this the wrong lead off the coil?
What i found when fixing my ISV is that the red/black doesn't make any difference when disconnected. My problem was the black ignition feed that made it work/not work. Sounds like your ISV is working perfect.
Cheers Paul, glad that's anothering working Any idea what the pin number is on the ecu that the blue/white wire goes to?
