Help! I'm running out of hair to pull out!

This all started some time ago. I have a 1990 mk2 gti 16v with an Audi 80 2ltr bottom end, kr top end which has been ported and flowed to a very high standard and standard 1.8 cams.

My issue is that my car won't go in gear. It started off by having lots of resistance in going into gear but it would still go in from stand still and slipped in fine when on the move. Gradually this got worse to the point where it wouldn't go in gear at all.

So I went down the process of fault diagnosis, starting with replacing the clutch cable, fault remains. Set up the linkage, fault remains. Changed the clutch for a brand new Sachs one, fault remains, changed the box for a recently refurbished 8v one and the clutch again, fault remains. Took all the linkage out and rebuilt with all new bushes, pins, grease etc, fault still remains.

It goes in and out of gear fine with with the engine off. I can find reverse and just about get 3rd with the engine on. After setting up the linkage again I had the car on axle stands and it went in and out of gear really well with engine running. Wheels did still spin with car in neutral but could be easily stopped with a foot pressing on it and when both were stopped engine continued to run, it didn't stall. Just to try and explain how hard it is to get a gear, with engine running, depress clutch peddle, go for 1st and I can bend the gear stick trying to get the gear.

I haven't renewed the pressure plate and fly wheel as they have been lightened and balanced.

I'm at a total loss with this now and really want it to get my lovely car back on the road/track ASAP. Has anyone out there got some advice or previous history with this issue?

Thanks for taking the time to read my jibberish.

Tim

 

clutch dragging,poss to with distances/clearance when the flywheeel was skimmed?

 

It worked fine for 2 years with the fly wheel lightened. It all seemed to start after changing the clutch cable and has only got worse. I changed the clutch cable at the peddle was very heavy and slow to return to the full up position.

 

i think me mum had similer in her golf turned out to be bent clutch peddle .
is clutch cable free moveing when not hooked up to box/peddle

 

What about the plate that clips into the centre of the clutch that the pushrod acts against?

Seen those get pushed through before and damage the pushrod, but you should've noticed that when swapping boxes.

The clutch arm inside the end of the box can crack, but as you've changed boxes that 'should' be ok too!!!

http://www.brokevw.com/TO.html <<< read this



I would have replaced the pressure plate by now too.

What cable are you using, self adjusting or a manually adjustable one?

Is the clutch lever that the cable attatches to, on the outside of the 'box going full travel when the clutch is pressed?

http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html <<< read this

I know it's a long shot but you have got the clutch disc in the right way round?

Long shot #2 see if you have a load of end float in the crank - see if there is 'in-out' play in the crank pulley.


Thread with some tips here.. http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?102620-Help-me-diagnose-this-020-problem

 

Cable is a manual adjuster type and is free to move when not connected to box.

Clutch arm and release bearing are fine, clutch disc is in the right way round,crank is nice and tight, this was an early check.

I'm gunna replace the cable again for the sake of a 20 part and after spending so much money and time it's a quick change and might be the answer after all this. Will check for bent peddle tomorrow.

 

Clutch is dragging as has been said, when the car is on stands with the engine running the wheels are free to turn so won't load the geabox up.

I had a pushrod go through the release plate but it was a deffinite "bang" and no pressure on the pedal after that.

The fact you say the pedal is slow to return sounds like pressure plate related problem.

Basically for one reason or another the flywheel isn't separating far enough away from the pressure plate when you push the pedal down.

Have you checked the bulkhead isn't flexing while you're loading up the pedal?.

Don't try and force it into gear too many times as you'll wreck the syncros in the 'box.

 

Is the clutch arm working as described in the 'release arm' link on Broke VW?

http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html

 

Clutch peddle was very heavy but after changing the cable it freed up and was really nice and light for a little while. Then this issue of having lots of resistance to get in gear started and has just got worse and worse. Going to check bulk head tomorrow too. Thanks for that suggestion, hadn't thought of that.

 

Clutch arm is working perfectly, been though broke vw site. Multiple times.

 

I've seen a cracked clutch pedal on a mk2 cause the same fault, gradually got worse and worse until you couldn't select gear and the bite point was non existent as the cable was adjusted numerous times before the crack was spotted

Also what height does the clutch pedal sit in relation to the brake pedal? Has the pedal stop snapped off and so you cannot adjust the cable correctly as you are compensating for the broken stop

 

I'll check peddle levels tomorrow, but I think it's pretty close to being level with the brake. Where have you seen the peddle crack? Where the cable joins the peddle? This is great help tho guys, all things I haven't thought of. Just hope it's one of these nice easy fixes and I don't have to drop the box again. I shall keep you all updated.

 

Right we have progress. With engine off and 1st selected, the mrs sat with her foot on the clutch (clutch down), I tried pushing the car fwd and it was in gear and as if clutch peddle was up.

With 1st still selected and clutch peddle depressed I started the engine and the car moved forward very slightly, about 2-4", hand brake was off for all of this.

I gave the clutch cable and peddle a good look over and all is fine, i disconnected the cable from the box and lifted the selector arm by hand. It reached the 9 o'clock position and I could hear the selector rod striking the clutch plate.

Clutch bite point is really low.

I know I haven't changed the pressure plate and I think I'm going to after today's findings. Could it be the sprung steel fingers in the pressure plate that could have lost some of their spring? Thus allowing the clutch friction material to sit closer to the pressure plate and so when the clutch is depressed the friction plate is already too close to the pressure plate almost like its over engaging.
So clearly the clutch isn't fully disenguaging when selected. Any ideas on what needs replacing?

 

Ok so today I have shortened the clutch cable to try and get some more movement on the lever and as such the push rod would drive in further. This had very little effect on things. So I have ordered a new cable and a new push rod. Both should be here tomorrow and I'll throw the cable in first and see what's happening. Fingers crossed that fixes it and it turns out the cable was just too long.
Failing that it's going on the ramp Friday morning and I'll swap the push rods over and try again!

I shall keep you all up to speed.

 

If you've changed the box then surely the same pushrod isn't in there.

Only thing that really makes the clutch disengage that you haven't checked or changed is the pressure plate.

If the cable is too long you could have put something/anything in it between the cable and box housing to take up the slack for a test.

 

That's exactly what I done with the cable but I ordered a new one last night so I'll change it as a matter of caution. As for the new box it did come with a push rod but I didn't inspect it when I put it together so it could have been biffed.

I'm starting to think that it's all it can be now. It's all starting to make sense. Finally! Will find out Friday morning!

 

you can check to see if the pedal box/support brackets are cracked/split,

 

I've given the peddle box and associated parts a really good inspect, cleaned it all up and out new lube on it. It was all fine, no flex in the bulk head either. I'm almost 100% it's a worn push rod now. Just going to try the new cable first. Thanks for all your advice guys, it's been greatly appreciated. I was getting very close to giving up with it.

 

Right then.

Today I have changed the push rod in the box and the cable again. The results of all this lime and money...... Cock all!

If it has made a change it's negligible. Once driving it shifts up through the gears really well and back down again if I rev match. But from a stand still it will not go into 1st and very reluctantly into second.
If I put it into 1st with engine off (which it does as it should) then start the engine with clutch pressed down and hand brake off the car moves forward lightly.

So basically the clutch isn't fully opening, I'm not getting enough travel on the peddle, lever, push rod?
I've adjusted the cable to way beyond where it should be by using spacers to effectively shorten the cable and this has made no difference so it must be internal. I've renewed the push rod so let's eliminate that and say its fine.

What does the push rod push against to force the friction plate away from the pressure plate? The disc that is held in with a circlip that sits in the centre of the pressure plate. Could that plate be too far in the pressure plate? Could the sprung steel fingers that the release plate tests on be worn and sitting further towards the crank than it should be thus shortening the push rod travel available?

Anyone had anything like this before?

Heeeeeeeeelllllllllllpppppppp? Or make me an offer and take it away!