I think this is where I'm going to post my numerous questions about SC'ing

Background, I've bought myself a mk3 16v gti (abf) with the intentions of rebuilding the engine, SC'ing it, then putting it into a Corrado.

So I have lots and lots of questions regarding numerous bull* on the matter

I've bought an m62 off a merc c230, unlike some of the others, this doesn't come with the bypass valve. So which ones have you guys used before? Where have located it?

ARP studs, I've seen numerous threads about them, but none seem to have a punch line. Which ones do I go for, where from, how much etc.

Air filter(s) which ones work best for a tidied engine bay. Where have you guys located yours?

Think that's it for now

Cheers guys

 

I got my head studs from Here. The part number is 204-4204.

What will you be doing to the engine? Depending on its condition you shouldn't need to do much to it for those outputs.

 

Cheers for the link

Engine wise, Strip, acid clean, lighten flywheel and maybe crank. Rods, crank, flywheel and clutch all balanced as one.
The car's done 115k miles, so depending on what the bore looks like, it may need a re-bore. Hopefully not, but if so, then new pistons too
Head skimmed and rebuilt. Triple cut valve seats. Think I'll leave the head standard apart from that as I've heard the ABF head flowing is good standard.

Then rebuild with ARB studs and 2 head gaskets.

Should be nice and clean revving.

I don't think I'd ever put an engine in a car without rebuilding it. (for myself of course)

Edit: Oil cooler too Though, there's another question haha! How critical is thermostatic control over the oil cooler?

 

Mine had 126K and had 0.02mm bore wear. All i did was rebuild head and with new exhaust guides, Rehoned, and added new rings and big end bearings. I also added 2E rods, but that isnt essential.
ARP Head studs and stacked gaskets.

I wouldn't skim the head (unless its warped) as this will raise compression ratio slightly. If there is no signs of overheating or HG failure then i'd say its not needed. I'd say freshen the engine up but nothing much more than that as they are a strong engine and last well especially for Eaton oputputs.

If the car is on the road, then you should use a thermostic sandwich plate as it will enable the oil to get up to temp and flow to cooler once up to temp.

 

Thermostat is another thing on the list then...

 

What about friction reducer in the chargers oil? Or would adding anything to the oil be a bad thing?

 

Yes, but it has oil inside it, between the gears that mesh to turn the rotors.
It can be opened up to change oil/rebuild though.

 

Leave the o.e. oil in the Eaton...no need to touch it.

I had an M45 on my G40 pushing 19psi resulting in 189bhp from1272cc without any issues.

Boost return wise, what's used on the car that the M62 comes from?

 

All I can find is that it has a bypass valve, I can't find what it looks like or how/where it fits or even how or in what fashion it's activated. Nothing, nada

 

Hi there superchargedabf, Nice and clean motor, was the Ben's old engine? plus what kind of boost are you seeing from that M45?

 

hi dude don't no Ben but i did get it of a bloke a few years ago its a Eaton 62 not 45 and its due to be mapped on the 23rd so will let you no what shes does the engine as had cams and head work so hoping for big things

 

Sorry dude that's a twin inlet M45 eaton from a late facelift W203 C class 1.8 engine, those 1.8 engines used the same pulleys and supercharger but had 3 outputs, which of the top of my head was 148ps, 163ps and 192ps. The only Merc to use an M62 was the early W202 C class 230K which had a clutch type pulley.
Good luck with the mapping dude and keep us updated.

 

OMG ,big let down are you sure ?.not what i was told when i brought the engine what sort of power do you think i can get out of it with the head work and cams ? thanks dude

 

Looks like u had same nasty shock I did ! I bought mine as M62 to find out its a M45 but has said have had to re engineer bracket annd sleeve shaft to fit a cooper s pulley as there more available give me a call if you wanna dis,uss further

 

On std cams anything from 190 to 215 @ 6300ish if your cams are timed right and have very little overlap then you could see more higher up the rev range. Have you dropped the C/R?

Left is early type M62 right is a early version of your M45, the M62 one on the left rotor blades body area is longer/bigger, M45 750cc M62 1,000cc


This is the early M62 with the clutch pulley removed, also note the pulley in between the eaton and alt was needed to give more belt wrap a round the eaton pulley to stop the belt slipping.

 

thanks for that i have stacked the h,g big shock about the charger ,think it would be nice to see if Ben know what it was as he definitely told me it was a 62 just can't take peoples word these days, but my friend is going to make me a billet crank pulley does any one no how oversize i need it haven't taken my standard one off to check the size yet but some one may no what i need to get a good boost thanks dudes

 

If your gonna maje a custom crank pulley dont forget about the harmonic damper

 

The std crank pulley is about 140mm, the biggest you can go on your mk1 setup would be 160mm cos of the water pump pulley being in the way.

 

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thanks guys i am using a v belt off the crank pulley witch makes the water pump pulley step out so the is no issue with room the only thing near is the engine mount but probably got about 50 mm till it hits that so i could go an extra 100mm on the new crank pulley ,so what do you think would be the best size increase to get a good boost figure thanks for the help guys

 

You've still got to allow space for the torque movement of the engine though, so it won't be a straight cut 50mm of room.