Injector seats on a KR

Earlier today I put up a thread about injector seals on a KR which the issue is now solved. But i have a new problem.

I dropped my inlet manifold earlier and shattered all 4 ceramic cones on the injector inserts.
Can i still use the injector inserts on the inlet manifold without the cones being there?

I have taken pics of what they now look like:





My friend brought his inlet mani around and he has plastic injector inserts with no ceramic cones as he has the earlier braided hoses, where as mine are the solid lines like from a corrado.

I really need to get the car running tomorrow, and cant get to VW before thursday to order new inserts.

 

You'll find that the 'cones' will help to position the injectors in the correct place spraying fuel at the back of the inlet valve. Without these there is a chance that the injectors will not point completely in the right direction. Sure the car will run, the injectors will probably move around a bit and not feel as secure.

My advice, get some injector seats otherwise, fuel consumption could be affected, poor emissions etc.

 

I see. Unfortunatly I'm all out of funds till friday. I have plenty of cable ties though

 

I stuck them in and tried it, works a treat.

 

I need your help on something else. My ISV aint working. I did exactly what you said about the black wire to the back of the fuse box and it only buzzes when you put the battery back on the car. Is the control box fubar do you think? I'm on the verge of putting the 8v back into the car as I've had it with k-jet and its only been a week!

 

I've tried two others and its the same which ever one I use.
Like I said it only buzzes when the battery is put back on the car, but when you turn the ignition on nothing happens. My friend has a KR in a mk1 and it dosnt have an ISV, there's just a piece of pipe between the plastic one to the airbox and the 5th injector. How does this work?

 

I put some pipe in there instead of the ISV earlier and still it wouldn't start.

I'll have to check tomorrow morning that the black is getting a 12v feed. As far as I know it is, I tested it with a bulb tester but I don't have a voltmetre. As for the earth how would you check its getting it?

Also I don't have the two black/white wires to the starter connected, I put a 16v starter on and all it did was smoke and not turn so have put an 8v one on. Would this affect the ISV? Just asking cos the wires to the ISV and the ones not connected to the starter are all black/white.

 

Re your ISV problem, are all the temp senders on the end of the head connected up properly? One of those is required for the ISV to work... can't remember which one, but you can swap the wires around if you have 3 wires and only 2 senders with spade connectors.

 

They are all on yes, although the two that arnt white/blue are frayed so I'll re-do them and see what happens then.

If that dosnt work what I'll probably do is wait for my mate's mk1 to be back on the road some time next week and have a good look at what he's got cos I know he isn't using an ISV. The idle is a little rough on start up but soon smooths out.

 

Both the wires to the ISV are black/white.

If i wanted to take the ISV out of the equation altogether would i just remove the valve and wiring fromn the car and put a piece of pipe in its place?

 

Ive got live, no earth though. How do i go about hooking that up?

 

Also the red/black wire is showing power. Why is this?

 

As far as I can tell the two wires from the ISV are black/white all the way along. When I disconect the control box from the engine loom the earth for the control box is present with and without the ignition on. But when I reconnect it the earth is no longer there and the red/black wire comes on. The wiring to the coil is all fine too. The two red/black and green are on the -ve and the two black/white and black wire are on the +ve.

 

Yep, tried that and it stopped the live feed to the re/black.