Im about to order my new diff and need to get hold of a tool to measure the preload once its set. Is this something anyone here has done and if so where did you get this tool from? Cheers.
Cheers jon but im at the stage where id quite like to just buy something that was designed to do the the job, spent the last 12 months fettling, cutting, grinding, tweaking and getting a little fed up. To work out the preload with a spring balance and lever would involve maths lol
Needle gauge torque wrench is all you need (not a clicker type) Once its set mark the nut and diff so if you have to undo it then simply count the turns to do so and then its easily reset. Rally chaps have the crush washers made out of solid (once crushed) to the crushed washer dimensions.
That looks the business, just need a way of attaching it to the diff which will hopefully become clear when i have it all in front of me. Not sure what you mean about marking the nut and diff if it needs to be reset?.
Just phoned about a needle gauge and got a fright at 180. Your option is looking more appealing already jon unless anyobe knows of a cheaper tool that wilk do the job?
Im getting a manual off my vw parts guy, checking the turning torque was something I had read on the broke vw website but they specialise in O2O boxes. If that step isnt required then thats a big bonus . Just waiting for my new diff carrier bearings and oil seals then I can crack on with getting it all back together. I was going to invest in a bearing puller to remove the old outer races and was planning on driving the new ones in with the old ones after taking a little off them so as they dont get stuck.
Ed China installed a diff on wheeler dealers to a mk1 escort. He just cobbled one together out of weights and a length of threaded bar. Might be a clip of it on YouTube. It was clever and simple once the maths were worked out.
Once the nut has been torqued (preloaded) it needn't move again unless you undo it so put reference marks on it and the diff casing and then you simply do it up to the same point (having counted the turns to undo it. Less than 20 on e-bay. Will be good enough for your needs. Search for " needle torque wrench "
Thats great thanks. Wavetrac diff turned up today, ive drilled the rivets out from the old diff and removed the crownwheel which was great fun!. Just waiting for my parts to arrive from vw which include the diff carrier bearings, oil seals and the o rings for pivot pins and output shaft bearing holder. In the haynes manual for the o2a box it mentions replacing the clutch guide seal bolts and reverse shaft support bolts, not sure why but ive ordered those too along with an oil seal for the clutch guide sleeve. A new release bearing and fresh oil and hopefully all should be well. It will be interesting to see how such a modern gearbox with hydraulic clutch will feel in my mk1 golf which had the original mechanical linkage o2a last. Im also looking forwards to finding out how this wavetrac gets the power down from my 16vg60
interesting reading, i'v just got hold of my wavetrac for an o2a and searching the forum for fitting i am not so sure i feel comfortable fitting it now
Bit of a thread revival I'm on the lookout for a puller that will remove the diff bearings from my gearbox and not having much luck finding a suitable one. Vw recommend a split collar type puller that opens out once behind the outer bearing race. There is only a narrow lip for anything to pull against so I don't think a standard leg puller would do but may be wrong. Obviously I need to be able to remove the bearing without damaging it to fit a shim behind it once I've measured the end float. Cheers.
The shims go behind the race, not the bearing, or am I missing something? Regards Jon I use a carbide burr to cut three small recesses out at 0, 120 and 180 degrees to make driving the races out easier
Yes I'm trying to remove the outer race your not missing anything. I mentioned removing the bearing but i mean the outer race of the bearing. I've bought a leg type puller which I'm hoping will do the trick. The problem will be that for this type of puller to work it needs something to react against as you wind the bearing out. That something will be in the way of the outer race as its drawn out so ill only be able to withdraw it so much before using a drift maybe. A split coller puller would be much better but im struggling to find one big enough.
The reason I want to be able to remove the race without damaging it is because I'll have to fit the new bearings first, gearbox side without the shim initially, measure end float and determine the correct size shim I need to get the 0.4 mm bearing pre load. Once I've got this measurement I have to remove the new outer race from the gearbox housing, fit the shim then refit the outer race, am I missing something here?. This is why I need a non destructive method for removing the outer race. Hot golf what do you mean by dolly it out?. I'm considering using a brass punch if that's what you mean?.
Who said anything about destructive? Dolly or punch is non-detructive. You're not belting ten bells of sh it into it you're tapping it out evenly and equally lol Brass ot steel will be fine as you're tapping the rear of the race which believe me if you're doing it right won't get damaged.
