Is stretch / camber really dangerous for heat?

Quite right. But the small amount of shimming being discussed won`t cause this problem. As I`ve mentioned, when you start going out to 3-4mm then it`s dangerous, for the reasons you`ve mentioned.

Some people like the look. Me included. But I do think massively over-stretched tyres, where the sidewall is nearly flat is wrong.

 

Paul's onto something regarding the forces on half the bolt as you tighten them up.

 

An option would be to machine the area where the bolt goes through the stub to the correct angle for the bolt head, quite easy for an engineering company to do as they set up a milling machine and clamp the stub down on a flat bed with the shim under one edge of the stub.

 

but it will. unless you make a tapered shim the entire surface area of the stub axle, and them make a corresponding taper washer for the bolt head (and a longer bolt) then you are asking for trouble.

Why do you think cars like this fail MOT,s, get pulled over, and given notices to be taken off the road? Because they aren't safe!!! it's illegal and dangerous, and you are all clowns if you think you know better and blindly ignore good advice and common snese when you're given it.

 

yes. maching is the only way to do it right. machine BOTH sides. the mounting face, and the face the bolt head touches too.

 

where can i get some really high tensile replacement stub axle bolts then?

 

resolving forces, you don't take the tensile load into account do you?

so it's all shear force in single shear, rich get some properly machined tapers, woun't be more than 30

and get the right rear tires on, i doubt you'd be insured as you have invalidated the fitting instuctions

 

What do you mean run out of talent?!

A tyre coming off a rim has nothing to do with driving latent.

The side walls of tyres are designed to be loaded in certain ways. Stretching them is doing something they're not designed for.

If you like the stretched look, then why not use them for just shows rather than everyday driving.

Most times I see a stretched tyre on a wheel I think they must have spent all their money on the wheels and can't afford the proper tyres.

 

Correct, tyre falling off of the rim.. thers no topic for conversation, its dangerous. fact.

 

He said he`d seen cars come off the track, not tyres, and by`...because of this.` I took it that he meant due to the perceived lack of grip from stretched tyres.

 

I agree ! its just not right and IMO doesn't look good ...it looks silly.. and also if the wheels stick out beyond the arch too far I think you can be done for having a moving part outside the vehicle or sumink!! (so its considered dangerous in the eyes of the law!!)

 

yeah , but u would get g60 arches fitted, im running 9x16 all round ,stretched tyre ,lowered,fits under the arch nice. All tracked/camberd up ,all the right psi. even tyre wear all round . Thing is im not planning on ragging it round a track or down roads { there **** over here anyway} or anything so sorts me fine , depends what ur after at the end of the day,

 

I notice with stretched tyres the rim gets scratched easier when people park up.

 

The way i look at it is if you had a long tube slotted over the stub axle you would bend the stub axle long before you broke the 4 bolts holding the stub to the beam....with or without a shim....so it is pretty safe.

I have always used hacksaw blades ground down to suitable thickness' because they are hardened. I would however be a bit concerned over using aluminium because it is so soft, if it starts to compress the bolts will come loose and then you will be in trouble.

I have used shims on the road and hitting kerbs very hard on the track with no problems.

 

At last someone who understands/agrees with what I`m saying!

Small shims for a small degree of -ve camber is fine. I doubt you would get pulled over for this as it wouldn`t be very noticable. If you were to put masses of -ve camber on then, you could expect to get stopped and made to prove it was safe.

What`s your experience then Ian? How much is too much?

 

Phatty is correct, a small shim even just a fraction of a MM thick will significantly reduce the surface contatc between the stub axle and the rear beam - reducing the security of the mounting!!!!

To do it properly, you have to get the rfront ear of the stub machined to the abgle you want and bolt it up.

 

I used to shim it to become upright at the rear and I think standard is about 1-1.5 degrees negative.....so I was shimming to change the camber by 1-1.5 degrees.

 

Machining it is another way of achieving the same result, but more expensive.

I was an application engineer for one of europes largest automotive fastener suppliers for sometime. I would have no concerns about putting that joint into production with reduced contact area, when you compare the cross section of the 4 bolts with the cross section of the stub axle, and the associated bending moments.

 

its that heavy VR6 conversion

 

Well, I think that puts an end to the argument!