Hi been here before with this one,but here we go again. My k jet 1600 EV runs,idles evenly @ 900-1000rpm when warm seems to accelerate but I've never Thought of it as right.(think it's a bit underpowered) When I'm flat out on long road it gets to about 75-80 and that's it dosnt wanna go any more. I know it's an old car but I beleive the engine is strong(it's just lacking something at the top) Don't get me wrong I'm not gonna drive it like I've nicked it but it would be nice to know it's there. Your thoughts please. Or am I expecting too much out of it.bearing in mind it's 82 so 35yrs old.book figures I doubt would Be achievable.
Injector issues, wur issues, metering head issues, blocked filter, timing issues? I recently had my 1.8 16v rolling roaded and had all sorts of issues but it now needs four new injectors as hasn't got the top end power
Or all of the above! I will just have to keep messing about with it and see what I can do. Or luckily I have another complete k jet set up That of got off eBay so may just swap to this untested set up and see if it's better. Failing that I think in future I may look at a 1800 with carb set up and ditch the Constantly irritating sh**e (c.i.s for short.)
Remove injectors and check spray pattern is a good start You could do the wur mod but you will need to get a fuel pressure tester so you know where it's set to start with
What is the w.u.r mod? Injectors are getting tested this weekend.i guess I'm looking for a fan shaped mist? I'm led to beleive k jet is a good system when right but getting there is something else.
On the back of the warm up reg there is a brass cap this can be removed and the screw behind can then be used to adjust the fuel pressure
Ok I didn't know that about the wur adjustment.clockwise for increased pressure???? Hopefully sometime this year it may run right.
1600 should be good for 100-110 surely? Minimum. My old EG GTI would show 120 on the clock and felt '''''''''''fast'''''''''''' It would keep up with a mk2 KR, back in the day... Jon
just took off the big rubber on top of the air box, the big disk Isn't at rest( completely closed )has a gap all the around it big enough to get finger Nail into does this sound right.and I'm struggling to pull my injectors to check pattern.
Ok I've had injectors out bathed them in carb cleaner,re installed them,they all spray when lifting plate in air box They seem to spray ok,if I'm really critical one looked a bit lop sided on the spray fan.but all stop soon as the plate is dropped And don't drip at all. Now as for engine running,the carb cleaner must have done something as its now way too rich(exhaust stinks)of Unburnt fuel @idle. So injectors putting more through now? Either that or I've richened it somehow.so I've got to lean it out a bit. On a positive note took it for a quick burn and it flew.although it can't stay as it is I'm poss doing low 20s per gallon I reckon. I think I'm close to getting it spot on but I know my limits and mabe time for a pro with gas probes and the like. Not worth buying one is it???? What sort money for one that works. Just to add is it possible for k jet to run perfect at mid,wot.but just be rich/wrong at idle as that's where I'm at.
Quick timing question do I set at TDC, or 6 degrees before TDC. Also the vacuum pipe needs pulled of dizzy??? Do I plug the vac pipe or the actual hole on the dizzy thanks.
valve and ignition timing are two unrelated things, sorry if you know all this. A lot get confused. 6 degrees BTDC sounds like a good number for ignition timing, a timing gun with variable offset is the tool you need. Shine the strobe on the flywheel looking for the O sign (TDC) and adjust the wheel. valve timing: all you need is for both intake and exhaust valves to have the same lift on the non firing cylinder at TDC when the O symbol is on the flywheel looking through the gearbox plug. A standard cam wont have much lift at TDC, non firing, so you can balance a straight edge across no 1 intake lobe and no 1 exhaust lobe and judge when they are equal. This is 'straight up timing' (equal overlap) and is a great start. Many people say advance the inlet, but VW engineers aren't fools and equal is a good starting point. This will also work with aftermarket cams so you adjust the vernier to get no slack in the belt and its done. OR you could start dicking around with DTI's looking for full lift degrees, if you have a spare lifetime, or a fetish for repetitive anal micro adjustments. I have tried both ways (ooh ere missus) and the quick dirty TDC equal lifts is now my preferred route Jon
for the 1.8 DX/EV kjet unplug the vacuum line to the dizzy and cap it off to stop an air leak. but you say 1600, so is it the EG code? I seem to remember those are timed to 0 degrees but I cant recall the exact procedure. If no-one else chimes in I'll dig out my haynes this is only for the basic timing though, you can usually play with the settings a bit to get more out of it. but yeah make sure the static timing is all correct first
