Mk2 Golf VR6 Turbo Track Toy winter refurb

Food for thought definitely..

The Ds2500 were ‘ok’ for the na engine, and I could get a couple of track days out of them.
I can only get a day out of them now.

they definitely struggle with the boosted engine as I’m 30-40 mph faster down a straight.

I’ve got a 280mm setup, braided lines, good fluid etc, various ducting to the front brakes but I now find I’m braking a good bit earlier just to slow enough for the next bend.

I think a more serious pad is definitely worth a try.

 

I'm also "promoting" the Hawk pads on Dutch VW forums, and these guys are like
"yeah but Hawk is so expensive, these (cheaper) pads are just as good, I'm no racer looking for the last 0,1 sec, etc etc."

Then last August 2 of them joined me on Spa, and they both said "You can brake really hard!!!", and I was like, but it's my first time here and I'm not pressing that pedal for 100% lol, it's better on a track I know
"But then you have a lot of wear right?" Nope, they will last a lot of days, Zolder (which is hard for brakes) included.

I agree with Toyotec, upgrade the brake system when you're capable of overdriving your current system, where pads are a big factor. I've been looking for a 4 piston system (Wilwood ultra light) as well, but in fact the brake pad surface is smaller...

 

The car is still light and the only risk with more serious pads would be overheating of your floating front calipers.
But you have to push on by some to get to that status. Only then you are ready for the next stage of hardware - a Monoblock setup.
My best pads for progressive braking feel were Carbon Lorraine RC6 in MK2 16v thickness and Lucas/Girling caliper. They will keep working even when the wheel paint starts to melt!

DS2500 just were never man enough for my driving and even dangerous. Hated the things. DS3000, where not as progressive as the RC6, but once you done a few stabs to bring pad temperature up, it worked pretty well.
Vehicle was my road legal/track biased MK2 ABF 16v in my link. If I lacked Vmax, like a 1.8T or VRT into a corner, I targeted the highest average lap speed. So brake points and intensity where critical to that.

Pads are your biggest retarding components. Then it is about heat rejection through the disks.
I never tried specifically Hawk, once I was happy with the DS3000 or CL RC6. So cannot comment on them or take the opinions of others as justification to try. This is because the brakes system is a personal feel/confidence thing.

 

Thanks for the info both it all helps!

 

Just a few updates, work always gets in the way around Christmas, I managed to get a few bits done though.

Rear corners were toast:






I’ve rebuilt one corner and part of the inner and outer sill, started the other, then I’ll put a rear panel in.
Trimmed some of rear arches and re welded the lips back up for clearance.
I’ve welded in a rear strut brace, welded up some holes too.
I’ve prepped the kit and bumpers and done a bit on the shell to kill time when it’s been too late to weld.
Looking a bit sorry for itself at the minute, but they always do at this stage!

 

Wow, job well done fixing that!