Just ordered a new knock sensor so will fit that tomorrow. Will order new temp sensor when i get paid on monday. Will plug laptop in when i get home tonight and see what the ecu sees the coolant temp as when its stone cold. That'll explain why the spark plugs are a bit black round the threaded bit. Hopefully once these two things are changed i'll have a completely different car on my hands
I was disappointed when i first got mine. Once intermittent faults were fixed it was like a different car.
replaced the coil on mine last night and it seems to have curd the lumpy fast idle from a cold/damp start and its not stuttering when revved from cold. seems to have a bit more low down torque+ seems smoother too, happy bunny although the spare one i had (donor car came with box of random ABF spares in the boot) was dated 2004 and the one that was on it was dated 2006. hmmm
I replaced my no.1 knock sensor on saturday and cleaned the face up on no.2 knock sensor sunday evening as it came up on vagcom and the face was a little rusty when i removed it. Just picked up my new ecu temp sensor from VW so will be fitting that when i get home tonight and see if its any better.
then get it on vagcom, see what faults are being recorded and then check if the measuring blocks values are plausible
Done them up to 25Nm which is what Matt said and i had a search through the forums and people have said that Autodata or whatever it is states 25Nm. Since doing them neither fault code has come back (touch wood) and i've done around 200miles. The sensors were done up pretty tight when i removed them.
Which measuring blocks do i test as i haven't got the full version and only get one set come up after closing the warning window that appears.
Just had vagcom plugged in and still no fault codes regarding the knock sensors . Matt or someone else who has vagcom and an ABF can your do a screen print and post up your measuring blocks figures so i can compare with mine please .
there are a few pages. tell use what things you wanna compare? our measuring blocks dont say a lot. you dont need the full version to look at the measuring blocks
Looked through mine last night and i can look at blocks 001-029 i think it was, most were repeats of the first three measuring blocks 001,002,003. So i guess if you could do those three and post a screen shot that would help alot and i can compare the figures on inj timing, throttle body angle etc.
Last couple of mornings when the car is cold and i accelerate it really doesn't want to do anything. When you put your foot down to pull away or after changing gear it really feels like its holding back. Almost feels like the handbrake is on as you trying to drive untill its over 2.5-3k rpm then it seems a bit better, once warmed up it goes ok apart from still having the slight judder between 2-3k.
Think i have found the problem with my car now. Unplugged the lambda sensor this morning before i left for work and the car runs 100 times better when cold, pulls quicker and is a smoother drive with hardly no stutter in the lower revs. Does this sound like the lambda is at fault if so does anyone know where i can get one for a reasonable price?
Just been for a short drive to the bank and back (about 1mile round trip). When i got back to work i thought i would check the ecu relay out. Pulled it out the fuse box and it is quite warm, took it into the office and removed the plastic cover, inside smells like a burnt out scarletrix car and one terminal has a little corrosion on it. I guess this means its pretty much knackered. Cheers Nick
costs about 10 quid for a new relay. mine was renewed when i brought the car so i havn't bothered again, and it seems to be an issue with how its seated. For 10 quid you might as well. never noticed a burning smell though
I have replaced the ecu relay over the weekend and checked the fuel pump relay and it seems to be fine inside. What symptoms would a failing or failed FPR give? The car takes a while to start everytime, engine stutters between 1800 and 2400 rpm and have black exhaust tips which would suggest over fuelling. Prongs around the electrode on spark plug seem to be a little light in colour but where they join the threaded part of the plug they are black and sooty. Cheers Nick
I am still having this problem with my ABF motor where it hesitates/stutters at 2000 rpm. Doesn't do it in first or second only in third and fourth when not thrashing it. If i thrash it then the problem doesn't occur is only when your taking it easy around town and its becoming a real PITA. I was thinking it could be the pick up for the fuel pump is blocked or blocked injectors. Does this sound feasible? Cheers Nick
