hi all right, have a mk3 16v 2 litre golf. last week the car would not start, the problem has been detected as overfueling but i cannot figure out what is causing this?. so far i have: cleaned the isv changed the plugs cleaned distributor cap inside and contacts on this and rotor arm. checked for sparks on all leads (all there) replaced vac line from manifold to ecu. removed and cleaned throttle body and refitted. now read everything i can about this problem and found a section in the haynes manual that says the rotor arm on an abf engine is fixed to the distibutor? mine isn't? i have uploaded some pics to photobucket so if you have some time please take and see if any thing leaps out at you. http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n125/alcamistdvd/engine/ thanks alcamist
hi there. overfueling it usually often caused by a vac leak of some sort. is the line from your manifold to fuel pressure reg in good nick? alternatively its worth checking the ecu water temp sensor. when cold it should be about 1600ohms (from memory), i have posted up a table of the results so thats worth checking too. if it thinks its too cold it over fuels. is yours over fueling so bad that it wont start or does it run rough etc?
hi matt the overfueling is so bad it won't start[:^(] the hose from manifold to fuel pressure reg looks ok but will pop out and replace anyway as have some there. i'll try and get hold of a multimeter later (can't find mine anywhere ) and check the ratings against your table. relay 167 is it the same as an 8v car as have a spare sat somewhere? al
right quick update, mate done a scan on the engine and came back as crank sensor[:^(] at least i know what it is now. any recommendations where and what one to get? i was gonna order one from ebay that some else from here had bought but is this false economy? also have some other stuff coming from ebay which i thought i could try. managed to get a few bits cheap alcamist
id call VW just to see what they want for it. not suprised it wouldnt work. so did it have a spark when it wasnt turning starting?
matt, when i was looking on here before i sure i remember about 140@ i'll check now. pete i know alcamist
not that bad. change sensor and it should come back to life. sensor can be a pig to get in and out. should be fine after that
not to pee on your bonfire but i had a similar problem once. Also tried changing the crank sensor with no joy. in the end it turned out to be the bottom pulley had slipped and knocked the timing way out. just an idea for you.
well, mate who checked with the reader said timing was fine also checked some other things like sparks and stuff but hey never know will see what happens when i change the part. i'm just deciding whether to have a go myself or chuck him a few quid and save the street from listening to some profanity alcamist
don't really know anyone with a golf except i know axelfoley lives round the corner. i think it'll be just a case of trying things. hopefully the crank sensor will do it. al
well got the crank sensor today and changed that and the bloody thing still won't start mate has checked with a power probe the ect, crank sensor. funny thing is when you unplug the fuel rail plug the one just below the manifold the cars fire's as if to start when cranking?? this is the most life it has? to be honest i am beginning to hate the thing now, just wanna get in and go for a blast. trust me to pick a **** one [:^(] al
Hi,are the plugs wet when you have been cranking the car over for a time? Also,definately a spark at each plug? Haynes manual is right about the rotor arm,they are bonded on origionally,you have to break the origional one off,any replacement then slips in place,some are a better fit than others. Cheers Paul.
just been looking on auto data and it mentions an inertia fuel cutoff if fitted any ideas anyone?? al
hi there have you pulled off the fuel rail or put a nurd light onto one of the injector plugs because when you initialy turn on the ignition you should get the pump to prime and when you crank it over the nurd light should pulse and tell you if you are getting a signal from the ecu to the injectors you may find that when you turn on the ignition all 4 injectors squirt fuel down the inlets for a split second this is to aid the initial start and if you keep turning the ignition on and off this will allow the car to start briefly before dying again but this operation does not rely on the ecu just a relay and apart from this initial squirt of fuel the injectors may not work after that if you have a ecu fault
