Mk3 8v juddering very strange

Discussion in '8-valve' started by Burtis, May 3, 2015.

  1. Burtis Forum Member

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    Hi my girlfriend has just bought a mk3 gti 2.0 8v and it's has an annoying judder every now and then. Engine seems to skip a few beats and then carry on again.
    New coil and leads and dizzy
    New cam belt
    Decent second hand air flow(thought it was this so changed it)

    Then stopped for a hour when chaned the air flow meter and the judder is back ahhhhhhhh!
    What could it be?
    Thanks for ideas and help.
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what engine code? might be crank sensor starting to pack in if late. also clean the throttle body out
     
  3. Burtis Forum Member

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    Thanks for reply will check it out ASAP. Runs lovely other than this.
    Cheers pal
     
  4. Burtis Forum Member

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    Right still got this problem very strange and it was getting worse and worse! But today got ****ed off and started to unplug a sensor at a time. First the maf was still a bit stutters. Then tried the lambda sensor and boom no more stutter also whist I was under car I have noticed a hole in silencer before the back box and the heat shield around the front pipe is rattling.
    So got a couple of things to sort out the the heap o tripe yay and hopefully this will solve some of the cars gutless engine. Would not have a chance of keeping up with my mk2 8v. And rubjonny I will get round to doing the throttle body also just for peace of mind.
     
  5. Burtis Forum Member

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    Turns out it's the timing belt that was changed by a fool and is set up right!!
     
  6. Burtis Forum Member

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    Well set the timing up ok it's all good! But now had a friend code read and the hall sensor is dead or dying. So this is the culprit after all
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    cool, have you cleared the code to see if it comes back? it may have been flagged when the timing was out as the ecu will see the cam and crank sensors are out of phase
     
  8. Burtis Forum Member

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    Hello again cheers Yeah cleared code after timing and reset Ecu and code for hall sensor had come back also dizzy is nearly round the wrong way so looks suspect. Hopefully a new dizzy will sort it out. Also got a second opinion and they seem to think it's the hall sensor also.
    Cheers
     
  9. Burtis Forum Member

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    Put car into a garage just to see what they thought but before I cleaned throttle body out. They could not find anything up with it so it's still a mystery!! Will find out in the morning if it still stutters as that's when it does it. Cars what a pain!! Engine code AGG so if not will follow up on your advice Rubjonny and get the crank sensor changed.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015
  10. Burtis Forum Member

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    In the morning car was better a lot and I mean a lot less juddering about. Still notice it but better so cleaning it out worked a treat. Also may get some injector/ carb cleaner just to make sure then clean throttle body again. Garage did not have a clue what was wrong with it as usual don't know why we pay these people haha. (Not that I did)
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sounds liek you're on the right track with it :thumbup:
     
  12. Burtis Forum Member

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    Still baffled after changing crank sensor which was not as hard as I thought it would be car now drives fine for 1-5 mins starts dying and won't Rev then cuts out but will start back up in a couple o mins To repeat process have tried fuel pump relay and it still does this.
    What's wrong now? Any ideas?
    Thanks
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    where did you get the crank sensor from?
     
  14. Burtis Forum Member

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    Euro car parts supplied a nice priced 28 one. Don't tell me the only one to buy is the genuine part haha!
     
  15. Burtis Forum Member

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    Righty the problem is at 2800 to 3kish rpm there is a stutter and always has been a stutter but is worse and at lower rpm when cold. And now when it gets hot it will idle but won't Rev up at all and the 167 relay(fuel pump one clicks away rapidly if I trying o put some throttle on think it's going to have to have another trip to the garage and if that don't fix it I quit it's only a cheap 600 car after all.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  17. Burtis Forum Member

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    Cool cool cheers mate.
    Ok it did look a bit naff quality also had no rubbers with it or anything! So just got a original equipment one from gsf car parts that look much better will try this. Hopefully it works as it cost 50. Will report my findings after the swap over. If this don't fix it I am well and truly lost. ??
     
  18. Burtis Forum Member

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    Well outcome was nothing! Yay! Have still got around 3k rpm stutter and 5k rev limit. Had it running and getting warm and it has not cut out yet been up and down the road but who knows if it's going to come back. All relays are nice and warm so they are good. Checked earths while I was there and they are decent.
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    recheck the dizzy timing for the 5k rev limit, if you look in my sig I have guides for this one includign vagcom check procedure, aggadydizzy1 & 2.pdf :)
     
  20. Burtis Forum Member

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    Excellent cheers i will have a look at this and try to set it up best I can then I will probably have to send it to the garage if problem continues(or most of the time when I replace something it gets worse haha)
     

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