Right, here we go again... Following on from the finished valve seat/throat work a few posts back, we come to blending the top cut into the chamber & removing any rough/shart edges... This is all thats really needed, just break the edge of the top cuts and blend them into the chamber. You can leave the chambers at that, or go one step further and clean up the whole chamber a little, smooth off all the edges of the chamber, and if you want a real tedious job, cut back the chamber to the gasket line (preferably a little before the line) to de-shroud the inlet as much as possible. Be "VERY" carefull not to go past the scribe mark or you'll have head gasket sealing problems (it wont !). I hav'nt gone for a polished chamber as I'm not trying to sell anything, but a clean up of the casting wont hurt. The next thing you'll need is one of these... For those that dont know, it's a burette for measuring the cc of the chambers in the head (and also the pistons in the block), and essential really to work out the compression ratio, or guess at it and melt a head gasket ! You'll also need one of these... A perspex plate to seal off the chamber. Coat the seats of the valves with grease and fit a spark plug, which will also need sealing with a little grease.. wipe around the end of the plug and the edges of the valves to remove any excess thats squeezed out. Smear a bead of grease around the edge of the chamber and place the perspex plate on top. Push the perspex carefully but firmly down onto the head until the grease has spread out in a uniform manner to seal the plate... De-cant some parrafin into a squeezy washing up liquid bottle (or you'll make a bit of a mess trying to pour it straight into the burette from a 5 ltr can !)... ...and fill up the burette to the zero mark... ... fill up the chamber and read off the volume used (CC) from the scale on the burettte. And one for Dom... I've had a 30 degree back-cut put on the valves, and then the head skimmed to finish... A little extra work I've had to do on this head to suit the cam we're going to use is to grind some clearance for the nose of the cam to swing by, though this wont need to be done in all cases.