Ive never thought of a snakes head I have to admit. But now that you mention it, I may make up a print tag for moulding reading ''I know where you live'' That should get her passed BG
Because Ive just spent 5 hours fixing the compressor which Ill need tomorrow Im now wide awake and caffeine filled, so now is as good a time as any for another instalment Had to make another one of these for the 2e block, I added a boss to pattern for a fitting hole/tapping, Got the shifter bracket done, and painted with black guide coat as with rocker cover, The bearings, they are slightly different than the ones I had planned, in that they are able for higher temperature environments, I think they are used in low temp ovens. Back to the blanker plate, moulding this is easy, I put it down on a board, and back filled it, turned flask and board over, removed board and Im left with this, Im going to place the sprue right on the rear of boss, this will mean Ill have no gate showing on the part externally that will need grinding/cutting off. The sprue dowel is turned at the top with a radius, so that when part is cooled, the sprue necks in where it meets part, and it will just snap off with a tap of a hammer, Filled, sprue dowel removed, and funnelled, The all important liquid, Poured and out, Back to that later for maching/drilling, Onto shifter pour while smelter is still hot, This is more complex, so you may have to look real close at the pictures to see the profile of the sand, its really, really hard to catch the profiles with the camera no matter what I set it to, Two flasks stacked and filled half wayish with lightly packed sand, pattern placed on and pressed down. This bed is just for positioning and packing, and will be coming out again in a minute, Pattern now covered with tightly packed sand and drawn off, Complete assembly now turned over, loose positioning sand facing up, Positioning sand dug out, and pattern is now exposed, this bit has to be done with care as this is where I rake down to the parting line all around, I took a few shots of this to try and show you just how complex the parting line can be on a simple looking part. Remember the parting line is also where both draft angles meet on both sides of the part, ensuring the pattern can be withdrawn with minimal disruption, You may need to look closely, the sand differs in height of about 75mm between lowest and highest spots, Cope on and dusted well with parting dust(I use joint filler power stuff) I placed the sprue dowel right on the boss that will support the gear change rod, where the plastic orange bush usually is in the oem one, again, this will be bored out so no cleanup needed. Filled the top flask(cope) and packed well. Few taps to flasks and lifted it off, Bingo, Few taps to pattern, and pulled it up out of bottom flask, very little breakout at edges Closed up, poured, and out, Proposed bearing location, Ill have to line bore these, as the rod sits back at about 80 degrees in respect to the base, should be pretty simple, BG
Did you just miss sleeping last night then... straight off to work? Looks like you're pioneering Narcolepsy drugs to maintain 24hour forum posting!
Nah, got a few hours kip, fixing compressor lastnight means I have an all singing all dancing compressor again this morning. No drugs needed apart from plenty of tea I once worked as a fitter in a saw mill, so working into the small hrs to get something fixed doesn't really phase me or seem unusual
So much for the last of the spraying being comment you made a few posts back. Will be nice to see the rocker in the bay soon though.
I know, I cant wait either, Im getting Gti withdrawal symptoms, it always happens after about 7 days[:^(] Got the shifter bracket almost machined, bored it twice to jig up as it was the strongest way to mount it, I had to do on the lathe, as my boring head was not long enough to get it in one shot on the mill, first picture(shaky one) is after I pilot bored it to 16mm. This 16mm hole will provide clearance for the 15.5mm line boring bar I had to make up, The line borer fitted, its high chrome bar(cant remember spec). I drilled a 6mm hole in it, and another 5mm hole tapped to m6 intersecting it for a grub scew to hold cutter. Cutter is a re ground 6mm bit. Line boring is a great way to bore holes accurately. Its the way cam and crank bearings are bored. The cutter detail, Bored. The saddle is move along to bore piece. Final cut was very light to provide interference fit, pictures of checking also, Driving in lower bearing, The oem shaft turned down at ends for bearing, I had to cut off and reweld relay arm to be able to chuck it up, Getting there, I fitted an oil seal to a slight groove in shaft to further protect lower bearing of any water/grit that may run down bar. The oil seal skirt hoods over bearing 2mm to provide a drip off edge. Bearings are stainless also. Top bearing driven on, Spacer fitted to further clamp bearing, and arm fitted, bit of a difference in the two already, it feels beautiful to pivot. Few small bits to do, and thats her done. I can then fit, and then leave in engine. Hope to start it tomorrow(the engine) BG
Lets hope it works as good as it looks then Nearly done now...I swear... Got the blanker plate bored tapped and fitted, I thought this should be high priority Incase anything falls in there, that would be bad as the sump would need to come off, got the frost plug seated too, in the other round hole to the left, Back to shifter again, for the nearly last time, bit slack on the photos this eve, but you'll get the idea. I didnt bother taking pictures of a lot of the lathe work, since you know how it all works by now on simple stuff, Made this, The inside is hollowed out as large as it would allow me, and the ends are counterbored twice. Once for the two phosphor bronze bushings I made also, and once for the oil seals. Think of the ends as being stepped, Interference fit, and reamed after pressing in, Ill still need to hone by hand to get the correct fit Im after, Ill know by feel, Oil seal presses in like so either end, these seals are supposed to be both for rotation, and linear motion, to be honest they look pretty like every other oil seal Ive seen, but I wont get too worried about it, it would be different if I was building a jet engine, I drilled and tapped two holes in the bottom side for two grease nipples. Now I dont know as yet if Ill use oil, or grease in there, but there is room for either, but at least Ill have the option. There is another hole in the top(you'll see in a minute) that I could use for an oil fill hole. In case your wondering why I fitted two nipples the reason is simple, when Im filling it(grease gun), the second nipple is pressed, to allow any air out, instead of blowing out the oil seals either end. The rear bracket. Some al angle. I could have cast this on, but the fact that I made a hollow in the base for lightness would then mean Id have to stand a little core there in order to get the top flask off the pattern. The sand would lock under the bracket. Its a little bit more work this way, but its ok, saved me making a core box and all that. I drilled it again on the lathe, I prob should have milled out this, but all the mess(tools) were on the lathe, so I just used that instead. Its clamped a bit hairy fairy, but its solid and I got the tolerance on the hole I needed, you guessed, another interference fit. This time a fit that Id need the vice to seat. I put some bond fluid on it and pressed in, I cant remember number, but its for fits between non ferrous alloys, It might come to me yet. The two tappings on top are to hold a heat shield that I have to think up a shape for yet, the screw length is random for the minute, This is the best option I feel for this bush(the crap plastic one) Doing away with bush altogether and converting a short section of the shaft to linear motion with rotation. Ill joint it to the main control shaft with a form of heli joint(probably not a heli as they are 80euro) but something just as good. The heat shield, combined with the polished P.bronze bushings(28mm long each) combined with the oil/grease, and oilseals, and everything else Ive done above should make this a beauty for years. Im not that worried about the ones(links) higher in the bay and near the box as yet, as they are easy get at, and basic designs, I just want this properly sorted before I fit engine, because I hate working in this area with all the bits in place/in the way. BG
Update, Bit skimpy on the pictures as I forgot to charge camera and couldnt be waiting for it, but you'll get the idea, dont worry, Got the shifter finished and fitted, because heli joints are an insane price(to me at the minute) and, it would take 6 days to have one here in my hand, I improvised for the time being. I used a uj from a 1/2'' socket set. They can be good, or bad out of the box, and mine was an old one, and somewhere in between, so I remade it slightly. I have no picetures of process, but all I did was knocked out the original sloppy fit pins, bored out holes to around 6.8mm, and then reamed to 7mm with my hand reamer(Its in one of the pics on the bench) Next was to find 7mm pins, that are hard and wont wear too fast. Now....whats 7mm in diameter on a vw engine that wont wear fast....correct, a valve stem! Cut two bits, tapped them in, and then clinched them with the ball pein hammer. Job done, heli join with no play. Its is im sure a bit heavier than a heli, but I can live with that for a while. Im going to remove the weighted shift rod, as the uj carries enough mass to do the same job.(Its in no way the same weight as the shift rod, but Ill remove rod anyway, once I get a straight link bar/new bars) Onto the finishing pictures, I turned a bush for the ball shaft, its press fit on to the shaft, and I it pressed on, The 'ball' a little different to the oem one thankfully! When I made the bracket, I adjusted it so that the arm sat a little higher in respect to the balls position. This allowed me to pin the ball in place in a way that the pin would be hidden up inside the ball, and leave me with a drip off edge for any splash water. The bush setup also no means that I have a 15mm bearing surface diameter, instead of the original 12mm(the shaft that sticks into ball) Meaning, a greater surface to wear, therefore should wear wayyyyyy slower. The o ring stops any possible rattles that may occur at idle, I cant have this engine bay rattling, the shame... Under the o ring are two holes that I needed to shove in lock pin, You can see the o ring makes contact just when you shift, and compresses 1/2mm if needed, back to the alloy. Its a pretty easy part to replace too, if it ever needs to be, (the o ring) There was 3mm of play there with the original ball.... The end of the control shaft needed squaring to fit into 1/2 socket set uj, done, and a slight dimple to locate screw, I also made the heat shield as I said I would, its a simple part and just a bit of aluminium shaped to fit, you can see it below in the fitted pictures, Theres two washers under it to give a nice airspace. It would have probably been ok as it was, but I felt it was a nice addition to the radiating heat from the 4 branch at standstill(town traffic) when you dont have much air movement. From the top, I just refitted the other links for the time being, Im going to cast links with spherical inserts, but they will do for a few weeks until I pick some up that I can press into cast links. An idea of the tolerances/space I was designing into, its pretty tight in there, fits though...amazingly.. Got the engine dropped in too, I can start screwing bits to it now. Its bolted to an lsd'd box too, I love it. But not the ratios or fd, its a 2y, but Im going to sort that soon to something I like better, Im going to give the bottom pulleys a lick of paint also, they are just on there for setup, I have to make an alternator adjustment bracket tomorrow I just thought....I forgot about that. Ill think of something...and also the rocker breather , Got the rad back together, minor job, but Im glad I painted the cowling, it was gone rusty in spots, so its ok again for another good while, I dont really mind dirt, but rust I cannot handle, It will run tomorrow, I must shoot up a video, BG
I reckon it needs a thread per design! Gobsmacking design goodness from the Emerald Isle! BG makes is own cam cover! Whatever next? A head?
I know I know, I just get sucked into it Sorry to anyone whos Broadband exploded on opening the thread Taking a ''commercial break'' from this for a week, back at it as soon as I return, BG
Work MUST be keeping you busy, which is always good news Either that or Brian's gonna splurdge a photofest of self cast engine porn anyday now!!
