Anyone know what oil pressure switch I need for the E.V engine I'm not sure on how many there are ,but I've seen different Bar pressure but don't know what I need.any advice thanks.
0.24 or 0.3 bar for the head, VW colour code blue or brown and on the oil filter housing a 1.8 bar switch colour code white. only go by colour if genuine, pattern parts can differ so check the ratings stamped on the side
Removed engine today ready for the e.v 1800. But I got an oily surprise when I took the driveshafts off the inner couplings.a mass of gearbox oil leaked from both I have noticed previously they looked oily but this was a fair bit. I've looked already online for possible causes but want someone that knows this problem or who knows what it's likely to Be.all I've seen is advice on changing the centre bit(cap)I also had no gaskets between shafts and couplings.
I haven't had the inners off mine for a long time, but I had the same issue. The nearside flange seal cap was loose when I removed it last time to do the CV joints. Photo credit Style Since it's not dry I'm not sure it cured it, but I think the outer seals leak too.
Don't think the drive shafts are wrong had a look and the caps are there but not oil tight.dont know why just age I Suppose. where can I get these caps. Engine out now was fairly easy as bolts were all undone only 2 years ago.
020409289B is the part number gsf are selling them on ebay not cheap, but their number 311VG020000001 doesn't work on the site. They don't have an option to buy it for the car it's listed for (Audi 80) and for your car they only list a complete flange seal kit inner, outer + clip. GSF60 is on till Tuesday.
https://www.gsfcarparts.com/311vg0070 If it helps put your mind at rest I've never seen or fitted the seal between the diff cup and shaft on any MK1/2 I've worked on, never had an issue. I know they exist and other people have seen them, I guess all the cars I've worked on have had someone in there before me
Some more pics of my rebuild.been painting everything before it goes back on.de-greasing gearbox was not the nicest Job to do but it's been throughly cleaned etch primed and vht alloy same as all the other stuff. I'm quite pleased with the fresh look.
Engine bay repainted. My mate owns a body shop but couldn't paint it as It was a hassle to get it there.but he leant me an air mask set up.(this stuff is nasty)did it before but was never really happy with it.now it's a lot better using 2k primer S/base 2k clear.its not wet in this pic this is the finish from the gun 2 days on.
Engine is now as good as finished it will be going back in within the next week or so.i plan to crank without sparkplugs in a few Times to get some oil around the engine.(also kill off fuel supply during this time) 10/40 mineral oil best?? and only have it in for around 50 miles max then change it..??? I'm also interested to know from others about the first few miles driven on new rings. Just to confirm no idling for prolonged periods.and short bursts of acceleration upto 3-3500 rpm. While driving then slow down without using brakes and repeat the process as much as possible. Your thoughts thanks.
Very nice looking engine bay!!! I know nothing about engines from new, I'm sure someone will be along soon
You can make an oil pump turning tool out of a old head bolt (cut a slot in the head of the bolt). Remove the dizzy and drive the oil pump directly with a slow speed drill to prime the engine before turning it. I always do this on a new/rebuilt engine Jon
Had some great help from knoledgable people on here along the journey of this project.big thanks to all concerned (You know who you are). I put engine in today but not connected up to anything yet.it was a bit of a mission On my own.pic is just before I dropped it in.
It has been a lot of work,I could have just done the engine and not bothered with all the paint.but I'll be honest I Started with the intention of just doing the block and cleaning everything else.but have got well carried away with painting The lot...think the missus will be glad when I'm done lol But she sort of gets it & loves going to the shows in the summer! But she is insisting on a new garden fence (10 concrete posts and panels) I think this is some kind of punishment for neglect
Engine is now back in with everything connected.tomorrow just a final check of every Nut/bolt/hose/plug etc.just the fluids and battery to do and then the big moment. The first start...
Engine is in and running all seems good to me.but I have a problem with my Dipstick and funnel. Going back to when this engine was in the car 3 years back the dipstick is an Older type with red plastic and a metal loop finger pull.the funnel was also red But was held together with tape(was more tape than funnel). Problem is I ordered another funnel (orange)and is approx 70mm long. I've just put in new oil. I know (for certain)that there's 3.5-3.8 litres of oil in the Sump as only just filled it and measured it from container markers.the dip isn't Showing this on (min or max).but it's just making contact on the very tip of dipstick. Seems a 70mm funnel isn't right for this dipstick. Out of interest I tried an orange plastic dipstick that I had spare from a pb dosnt Register that either just on the tip again. Both dipsticks are 38cm on the metal part anyway. What's going on someone on here must have some info. Only thing I can think of is someone in past has swapped the metal tube and it Needs the shorter one (30mm) I think that's for a 1.6 diesel. Baffled
