On my 8V engines, looking from the front of the car, the left hook is an eyelet that is bolted on with the acc. bracket, the right hook is part of the head... That rope is authentic VW german made engine hoist rope Broke
Nice one, I see the alternator bracket one on my 16v head but nothing on the right hand side to use for supporting the engine? There is a lug of metal sticking out of the head (back right corner, as viewed from the front) but that wont be safe.
On our 16V engines, the right hand hook is hidden by the intake manifold, so it needs removed to get to the hook correctly. There is a VW special engine hoist bracket that allows you to lift if with the intake manifold in place, but otherwise, it will have to come off I think. Broke
I've found it now, tucked in behind the ISV unit and it's associated pipework. Sorted. Is it a necessity to pivot the engine down to the n/s to aid refitting? If so, which bolt(s) of the o/s rear engine mount need to be undone but not removed? (visions of the engine swinging around now ) In the manuals over here it mentions to remove the gearbox oil, is this just because of the exposed speedo cable hole? Cheers Broke by the way.
No VAG markings on the plate, so an inferior aftermarket part had been fitted in the past. Well done to those that guessed it would be the plate (bit of a shock to see it broken! but then I did hear a loud shattering metal noise on the driveway, when trying to get it into the gears), bit of a shame it happened but hey ho, just need to piece it all back together now.
Wierd, mine happend on the drive as well! Lucky it wasn`t when I was sat in traffic on the way to work..
Slight niggle with the 'box back on... It seems now that the new pressure plate is so strong that the release arm/clutch lever cannot push the push rod in any further. I cant even get the clutch cable fittings on, as the lever wont go high enough? What's going on now?
Mine was a ball ache as well mate, I pulled the lever up with a screwdriver to get the cable back make sure the cable has max free play.
Have you got the self adjusting cable then? The manual ones are usually no problem to fit...or is the pedal still on the floor?
Pedal works fine now, if a little stiff (are Mk2's like this normally?). The cable I have on at the mo has a big chunky plastic part, where the threaded bar section screws into, would this be a self adjusting cable?
Has it got a white plastic strap with two loops on around the upper part of the fat plastic bit? Get yourself a manually adjustable cable. Clutch stiffness, have you replaced the clutch or just the disc that the pushrod acts on.?
It shouldn't be stiff, it should be fairly easy to push, it is possible the cable is worn....ours are routed differently, but when worn, they can bind making the pedal harder and harder to press, until the stress eventually breaks the pedal cluster and the brake and clutch pedal fall on the floorboards. With ours, you can twist the cable sheath halfway around, so the natural bend in the cable is reversed, and if it suddenly gets easy with the bend reversed, the cable is worn. It'll want to flip back around to the original install postition, but it is good for a test. Anyway, your cable is a manual adjust, you should have been able to screw all of the threaded bar into the chunky plastic portion, and it would make the cable "longer", with no need to raise the arm up to put the end of the cable back on. Self adjust cables have a big boot or bellows right at the end of the cable, where the threaded part is on yours. This page shows the manual adjust cable end, and how to properly adjust it. http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html Broke
New cables are cheap - especially the manual ones. Either lube it or get a new one. It's not worth having it break when you're miles from home.
Check into halfords, I got mine dirt cheap as they are a discontinued part. If they have any in stock they'll be like 5 The one I got from them for my GTI was exactly the same make as the one GSF sold me for my Driver
