OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by 20v_jimmy, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. Spuddie90 New Member

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    So I was in the garage again today checking my wiring I have continuity from the sensor plug to the fusebox but if I jump the terminal on the plug the clocks still don't move pin 9 is earthed I changed the fusebox over swapped the clocks over and still nothing I'm at a loss really. And also all the engine bay wiring is on a permanent live rather than switch live and so is my radio not sure how that has happened any advice would be much appreciated thank you
     
  2. phunkymonkey New Member

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    hi people, hope some one might be able to help me out, i have put a auq engine in a non vw vehicle and need to know what wires to live and earth to get the motor running, i think i have the ones from the brown plug right but not sure what to do with the purple t14a? plug, also do i have to run the fuel pump from the ecu or can it be run standalone?

    thanks
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    spuddie: try looping a wire between pin 4 and 9 on the T14a plug, that should make the gauge go up. if not, try between pins 4 and 7. If that works, check pin 9, it isnt earthed. if it still doesnt work then check pin 4 for continuity back to the fusebox pin for the dash temp, pin g2/3 for CE2 and D/29 for CE1

    phunky: have a look at this thread, might be helpful!
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196
     
  4. phunkymonkey New Member

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    thanks alot!!!! that made much more sence to me lool, all runing now, thanks again
     
  5. Spuddie90 New Member

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    Thanks for the help rubjonny but I'm still having issues I checked for continuity from the coolant plug and g2/3 and it's all good I think it was 0.02 ohms of resistance I loop 2/4 still no joy pin 7 and 9 on the t14a are both linked together and earthed on the body I did try putting a negative from the batter to the coolant sensor and still nothing I think it has to be something stupid that I have missed but I just can't work it out
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok if you have tried earthing pin 2 direct to the battery, and g2/3 has continuity to pin 2, plus both 7 and 9 are both earthed then theres nothing wrong with the 20v side of the loom.

    what you are left with is a faulty clocks or wiring issues to them. check g1/5 is earthed, easy one to miss when doing an engine conversion :)
     
  7. raoskidoo New Member

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    Hi there ,
    Im having an issue with my fuel pump relay. T6 brown / 2 purple white is not a good ground enough to click the relay. When i jump pin 86 on the relay to ground , my fuel pump relay clicks. I was wondering which ground the ecu harness needs. I might have also a short to ground. T6 brown /1 /2 /4 are wired and thats pretty much it. Any ideas ?
     
  8. raoskidoo New Member

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    Edit : i am using a generic relay. Not a 60/80 or some sort of vw fuel pump relay. Might be the problem.
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    try putting 85 to the ecu purple/white, 86 to ignition live. It usually doesn't matter but some relays it has to be this way round according to a pdf I have here on bosch relays.

    Also Andy947 found he couldn't get a normal fuel relay working on his 20v and had to use a MK4 409 fuel relay instead as the ecu trigger was pulsed rather than straight to ground so that may be worth a try?
     
  10. raoskidoo New Member

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    Yeah I messed up my writing , Purple White is already on 85 and 86 to ignition live. My relay has a bult-in LED ( probably pinned on 87a ) which lights around 1% of its brightness because it is not grounded properly. When I take a multimeter and test for continuity on purple white and the negative terminal and I turn the ignition on , I get continuity which is fine. Still the relay won't turn on.

    There is only one ground on the main harness right ? It's a round spade connector near the ECU connector. If so , even when that cable is disconnected ( not grounded ) my harness is still grounded. That's the reason I think I have something sorted on ground or some sort.

    Might be hard to understand
     
  11. raoskidoo New Member

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    My last concern is T6/1 and T6/4 which are related to the ECU Relay. What is the ECU relay, is it on the main harness ?

    Right now T6/1 is on ignition live and T6/4 is a permanent live but they are not on a relay or what so ever
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    whats the engine code for the ECU you are using?
     
  13. raoskidoo New Member

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    The engine is a AWP and it's the ECU that came with the car.

    I might just end up by using a relay with a on/off switch and not using the ECU.

    ECU is working because I can scan it with a OBD2 scanner
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    right on this one T6/1 is just a basic ignition live to switch on the ECU, its not directly related to the ECU relay but without it the ECU wont trigger its own relay. make sure the feed you used is a proper ignition live i.e. live with ignition on and while crnaking, some accidentally use an X feed which goes dead while cranking and that causes issues :)

    T6/4 is a permanent live for the ECU, as well as the ECU relay. The ECU relay is in the relay box near the big ecu plug, relay is probably number 428 same as in Europe, its the one with a thick white red wire runnign to a 2 pin plug, but only 1 wire is used. the other side of this plug is on the small ecu plug loom with a purple/black wire. Dont mix this one up with the SAI pump relay 100 and plug. The SAI pump has the same shape plug on it but with 2 wires on it white/red and brown
     
  15. raoskidoo New Member

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    Right ! Is it bad if I don't use purple/white from Brown plug to fire the fuel pump relay. I use simply use a ignition live switch + a safety switch to shut it off or on. Everything is working fine , OBD2 is reading juste fine , but I'm still having problems with the 409 relay.
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if you dont/cant use the ecu wire for the relay then if you crash the car the pump wont cut out, which can be a bad thing depending on how bad the crash is :lol:

    if you install some kind of crash shut off switch then you'll be fine
     
  17. raoskidoo New Member

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    Hey Rubjonny ,

    My swap is done , but car won't start :'( . Fuel pump is working fine , car is cranking but no spark. Spark plugs are fouled with fuel so injectors are working. I scanned a code : P0688 which is related to ECU ( open relay ? ). The ecu relay is the one next to the SAI relay 100. Currently there is a 167 relay , I have heard that AWP OEM is running a 428 and not a 167 ECU relay.

    I have also tested my Coil loom : Pin 1 , Nothing ( should be 12v ) Pin 2 earth , Pin 3 ( trigger ? ) Pin 4 earth.

    I think I'm on a good way to find the solution soon !
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    167 is a fuel relay not ecu, possibly why I guess they are not pinout compatible though I'm not near a loom to check for you ;)

    get the right ecu relay for starters then work from there :thumbup:
     
  19. raoskidoo New Member

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    167 and 428 have the same pinout. I removed the 167 and placed a 428 and the car started immediatly. Idles great and runs great , RPM is working , speedo is working , OBD2 is working. God this is a great feeling !

    Thanks a lot for the tips RubJonny !!
     
  20. phunkymonkey New Member

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    right bit of a strange one, iv got a auq in and fitted, all running, but i have a rev limit which i believe is due to vss, the engine is not in a vw and dose not have vw clocks, i am running a 6 speed seat gearbox with the speedo sensor in it, is there anyway i could get vss from that to the ecu?

    thanks
     

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