OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by 20v_jimmy, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the digifiz cluster has the speedo sender fed to both the cluster and the vss output wire so it may work? I believe the VSS signal needs to be a 5v square wave, so you can check the speedometer sender using one of the hall sender tests on google to check the output is the same :)
     
  2. raoskidoo New Member

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    Do you have any idea how to wire the alternator ?

    The small plug is plugged on the alt , the big wire goes from alt to starter and there is a big square plug left unplugged ( because I don't have all the wiring needed for the battery ). Since the alt has no permanent magnet , I must supply 12v and ground to the small plug but I don't have any clue which wire is which...
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    look closely at the end of the alternator loom at the gearbox end, the blue wire is the one you need. this needs to be connected to the blue wire on your wiring loom that used to go to the old alternator. on a mk2 this is on the headlight loom and is near the battery, the mk3 its in the engine loom and is near the starter motor :)
     
  4. raoskidoo New Member

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    It is a mk1 with a 1.8t from a mk4 and I have neither of those wire. All I have is the original mk4 wire with 2 plugs , one for the alt and a big square plug that went to the battery ( which I don't have the harness to go to the batttery )
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok on a mk1 its in the same place as a mk2, in the headlight loom and ends up near the battery. look at the thick red wire from the fusebox to the live terminal, the blue wire should run with that up to near the battery terminal
     
  6. phunkymonkey New Member

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    right so iv got my engine running now and it runs ok, has anyone got a pin out for leon cupra clocks, and what wires go were in relation to the engine looms, ie vss in and out, temp,oil press ,rpm etc, i have the closcks and plugs with 6" of wire coming out of them , i know the lives and earths and can get them to come on with ign, just cant get them to show any movement on the guages
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  8. phunkymonkey New Member

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    thanks for that, that sort of helps except i dont have a mk2 fuse box to reference the u1-u2 numbers, all i have at the mo is the clocks with a length of loom and the amk engine loom, is there anywhere that shows where the pins from u1-u2 go to?

    thanks
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I meant just use it for reference to know what all the wires do on the leon clock plugs rather than for reference for splicing, but for the U numbers ID check my fusebox FAQ :)
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775
     
  10. phunkymonkey New Member

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    am i right in thinking the green/brown pin 11 from the clocks connects to pin 2 green red in the orange plug? as iv done that and still no rpm
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  12. vicius_the_one New Member

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    i made a swap as in title on audi a4 1995. i simply used euro 4 harness ans sensors, also fitted camshaft adjuster behind cylindear head with electromagnetic actuator. car has a problem starting with Euro 4 cranshaft sensor(g28). it starts only with euro 2 g28. for euro 2 sensor i have to swapt 1 and 3 wires in plug to start with it. with euro 4 sensor ans normal fitted wires i dont see any RPM on start up. cars doenst start even when is pushed. I checked etka and ring for g28 is same for euro 2 and 4, so i dont need to open engine and fit euro 4 ring on crankshaft.
    I checked wiring for g40 and g28 and are ok to ecu.
    I also checked voltage on g40 and g28
    g40 = 4.95v at ignition and cranking
    g28 = 2.5v at ignition and cranking

    g28 from euro 2 and from euro 4 have same lengt so they reach same dept in crankcase.

    I wonder it there is a voltage problem in ecu pcb and g28 has poor voltage. i need a hint if someone can help me somehow.
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    might be worth puttign up a fresh thread for this one.

    not sure what you mean by euro 2 and 4? if the car runs on the euro 2 sensor whats the issue?
     
  14. vicius_the_one New Member

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    Cars starts at 4th 5th cranking and has incorrelation between g40 and g28. Also in this case after 4000rpm variable adjustment of camshaft with electronic actuator is not possible!
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    that sounds like the camshaft sensor could be wrong, what does the engine rpm/speed measuring block show in vagcom?

    with the crank sensors I believe they would either work or they wont
     
  16. vicius_the_one New Member

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    With g28 from euro 2 i have rpm
    With g28 from euro 4 i have 0 rpm
    Sensor was exchanged few times even with new
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what do you mean by euro 2 and euro 4?

    anyway i think now its running you can move on from the crank sensor, now check the cam sensor :)
     
  18. vicius_the_one New Member

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    Car has now conversion from euro 2 aeb to euro 4auq. I used entire engine harness for euro 4 and ecu for e4. So I also used euro 4 sensors. With euro 4 sensor on crankshaft it doesn't start once rpm is zero. With older euro 2 sensor it start very hard at 5th cranking but ecu needs to work with euro 4 sensor which values it doesn't actually see.....with euro 4 sensor on crankshaft i have 0rpm. I really don't understand once wiring is ok and stages ok for both sensors. Both sensors for camshaft and crankshaft were changed to eliminate them :(
     
  19. vicius_the_one New Member

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    Ssp document for me 7.5 injection specifies that it should start even when camshaft sensor is defective. But when i remove conector for camshaft sensor it wont start anymore even with euro 2 sensor on crankshaft. I need Some hint about voltage needed for crankshaft sensor since i olnly have 2.5v instead of 3.1....i dont understand why because camshaft sensor has 4.95v instead of 5.1v. so when you think about crankshaft sensor beside camshaft sensor wich are both supplied by ecu, is don't understand why there is so poor voltage on crankshaft sensor(0.6 less) when on camshaft sensor there is only 0.15v less
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    hmm if it wont start without cam sensor even with the 'working' crank sensor thats not right as you say. Have you started a new topic on the forum? not many people will be subscribed to this guide but everyone should spot a new forum post :)

    you might be on the right track with an ecu issue, but check the ecu power feed in case its a bit weak. did you wire it in with a supply relay as per most factory ME7.x ecu?
     

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