OEM MK4 management wiring => Mk1/2/3 harness install FAQ (Now with added dieselness!)

Yeah, thanks for the reply!!! But all I wanted to know if I'm right!

What I mean: I don't know the most things it this wiring work, I'm just started learning that all. What is the main principle? So I have these ORANGE, WHITE, BLUE, BROWN plugs from my 20vt MK4 AGU engine and also have these G1, G2 white plugs from my MK2 CE2 fusebox. SO! All I need to do is: using that chart, pull the wires out of these MK4 plug pins, and put these wires into the MK2 CE2 plug pins specified in that chart?

 

That's great thanks, I'm guessing that they are ecu pins?
do you happen to know what accelerator pedal pins 1-6 they correspond with? So I can check it's all as it should be.

 

THANK YOU! I really appreciate that you still answer after so much years! Hello from Ukraine!

 

Need some help with the last few fan control module and a/c & after run pump wires for my 20vt swapped mk3. Am 95% done! This guide has been a life saver!!

car is a mk3 golf 1.8 ADZ engine code
1.8t 20v swap AUM engine code

1 have 4x a/c & coolant wires off of the mk4 AUM loom which are:
t121/40 t10/8 orange plug (aircon ready) blue/red
t121/41 t10/7 orange plug (air compressor off switch) green
t121/61 t10/4 orange plug (feed to control unit climatronic unit white
black/blue (fresh air switch)

On the mk3 10 pin fan control module i have left over a:
t45/33 Blue wire (a/c pressure sw??)
t45/35 green/grey (air con on fan wiring)

What is needing to be connected to where? I'm a little lost as to why i have a few spare mk4 wires and unsure if these need to be somewhere else??
Also, how can you wire up the after run pump to the original 10 pin fan control module. On my mk1 vr6 swapped car the after run pump is connected to the fan wiring and the fan/after run pump stays running for a few mins after its turned off.

Thanks

 

so its just the 2x wires that need connecting on both mk4 and mk3 looms for the a/c to operate.

black/blue wire comes from orange t10/10 plug.

pin t on fan control module from plug t10 is the bottom row 2nd from the left as per the fan control module diagram. the original engine from the mk3 didn't have an after run pump. do the fans keep running after car is turned off? don't recall if it does.

 

This has given me the confidence to undertake my mk3 AGU swap. Thanks rubjonny!

 

Any ideas on to why cruise control would not be working? All new switches and cruise stalk in the mk3. Gone into VCDS and activated cruise but still not working got me stumped. below is how everything relating cruise it wired. any suggestions? AUM harness

Mk3 Cruise control stalk:

1 to t10e/1 blue
2 to t10e/9 white
3 to t10e/2 red/yellow
4 to t10e/3 black/yellow also to ignition power

Mk4 brake pedal switch:

1 to plug e/4
2 to ignition live (same as clutch sw)
3 to t10e/5 white/yellow
4 to t10e/4 red/black

Clutch switch:

1 to ignition live
2 to t121/39 red/white

 

Just confirmed wiring and all appears to be the same as what’s mentioned.
In measuring blocks it seems clutch, brake and on on switch on stalk are working. Only one that I think could be the issue is red/yellow ‘set’ wire but that’s all connected. I’ll add a picture showing in measuring blocks with brake, clutch and cc on switch all on the 1 ‘on’ position.
While in motion speedo works.

 

@rubjonny i wanted to start the engine while i have it on the stand, just to make sure all spark plugs are working, injectors etc so i have an easier time replacing something in case there is a need to as once installed there is clearance only to slide the palm between the engine and radiator on my Mk3 GTI.
The engine is a 2.8L VR6 24V (AYL) code from a VW Sharan, it's same/similar to BDE i believe as it has VVT or as some refer them to R28 engines if that's a correct name too.

I wanted to make sure which wires are needed to start the engine.
I ran the earth and Positive for the pump straight from the battery if that's ok for the engine to start (if ECU is happy with that).

Is the brown T6 - 6 pin connector all i need for the engine to start if that's the case:
Pin 1 - Ignition live / ECU Power (Positive +) to battery
Pin 3 - Starter - start cranking (Positive +)
Pin 4 - Permanent live to ecu 12v good feed from battery. (positive +)
Pin 5 - Not sure about this one, didn't use it yet: is it needed for the engine to start ? lambda, MAF, CC etc ?

and the DBW pedal to the blue connector.

I had a battery that we used for work during the day and it was almost drained.
I used it for a decent amount cranking to prime the engine / get oil on the head.
Once i plugged the brown wires Pin 1,4 i heard the ignition beep static noise and the pedal was working as the flap of the intake manifold was moving when i touched the gas pedal.
i plugged the fuel pump straight to battery without going through ecu and the two fuel lines.
Cranked it for like 10-15 sec but it didn't fire and the battery ran out ( i guess it wasn't cranking at enough speed).
Is it supposed to fire fine like that, put the battery in the charger so it will charge overnight and will give it a try tomorrow.

Just wanted to ask whether i need additional wires for the engine to fire.
like Pin 5 for lambda etc from the brown t6 connector or additional wires from T14a ?

 

Tried all, no spark from coilpacks