Recently changed my engine in my MK1 for a 1.8 DZ instead of my old DX where the big end shells have broken down. Fitted the engine with new cam belt, timing belt, rocker covers gasket, used all the DX ignition, manifold, sump pick, sump etc. Had to fit a different oil filter bracket form another DX as mine had a different botl arrangement to the block. Had it running and it seemed very well, did around about 60miles and it seemed to going fine, performance good, no dodgy rattles etc. It hasn't been leaking either whiltst parked up. However the other day it wouldnt start (as though it had no spark as I could smell fuel but there was no attempt at ignition). Looked under the bonnet and saw oil coming from the top of the oil filter. Turned out the oil filter was loose! pretty sure I had tightened this suffciently before (had already done about 15miles driving on it too). After that it started fine a I did a good 40mile drive, no problems at all. Next day went to start, same again, fuel but seemed to be no spark, kept turning it over then it eventually fired but it spewed oil from between the oil filter and cooler. You could see from the drivers side that it had physically pushed the rubber seal out. So replaced all the ignition leads, dizzy, rotor arm, new filter. Also checked the oil cooler, was a tiny bit loose so this was tightened properly. Just fired it up now, first turn of the key then within seconds it sounds like its misssing as I go round to look under the bonnet, oil starts spewing out of the new filter in exactly the same way by pushing the seal out, firing towards the washer bottle Any ideas whats going on? My driveway looks like a beach in the gulf of mexico and I'm stumped as to where to start!
Do you have the water / oil cooler arrangement fitted? If so, is the nut that retains it to the filter head tight enough?
water head cooler fitted and I've checked its tight, was a little bit loose before but now pretty damm tight, and same oil squirting result
I'm thinking that something has clogged my oil cooler up? hence why the oil is squirted out (with some considerable pressure) Does the oil flow from the block down the centre of the oil filter and back up out through the holes which go round the filter? If there was block in the cooler there then this would cause the leak?
Only way to tell if you have some sort of blockage is to pull it all off the car and have a look. First time I've heard of it though.
Was there not another thread last week with someone having problems like this? Wonder if there is some dodgy oil filter seals going around or something. Have you definitely got the same type of oil filter housing with all the ports in the correct place?
I may well be wrong here but looking at Vagcat for both DX & DZ it appears that the oil coolers only apply to the automatic / diesel engines and use a different filter. pp ^^^ danster ... is everything aligned ?
DZ housing DX Housing Your pic of the DX housing is showing the later style of flange to the block. I have never seen a DX with that late type before. You are using the DZ block which is in the 1st pic though? That should just be the normal earlier style flange. Was the replacement housing ported the same? Possibly got a sticking pressure relief valve in the oil pump, but I would try and connect a gauge prior to stripping the pump out to check.
I had this... Did you use the oil pump from the DX in the new engine? If you did then the pressure relief valve on the pump is stuck probably full of metal so when you run her up you're getting a huge oil pressure hence the filter seal blowing out. Steve
yep, the oil fitler housing was ported the same as the block. The original DX bracket as the pictures (and rest of the engine) was not the original engine, all I know supposedly was "its from a late model cabrio" I know from changing the sumps etc over ironically my knackered DX engine seemed much cleaner internally than the DZ I can't really run the engine to test the pressure relief valvle as it just cuts out, but before it does it spews oil everywhere, the engine bay is a right mess. Think I'm going strip all the oil filter housing backet back, make sure everything is clear including the oil cooler, possibly whip the sump off to and see if there's anything unusual in there. Tiss strange as the car ran great for 60miles and i'd left it running for ages before i'd even drove it anywhere. Water and oil temperatures seems fine. I'm wondering if some crap has been blasted through the engine and finally clogged an essential oil way closed. oh what fun!
You can just swap the oil pickup pipes. No need to swap the pumps. If you did use the pump off the old engine then swapping it over for the DZ one with the correct pick up pipe will hopefully cure the problem. If the original engine came from a late Cabby with a DX engine that may explain the later style oil flange, if it came from a late Cabby with carb engine the code is probably EX. No problem as they are both 1.8 and the bottom ends are the same.
Just to clear, Danster means the entire lower pump casing And, one pump rotor will fallout when you do remove, so be careful to fit it back in
I suppose you could just do that, but if the DX pump was fitted and full of swarf, I would be fitting the original DZ pump in case the gear chamber bores are marked up in the DX pump.
I thought you wanted him to swap the relief valve out without stirring pump. Maybe I didnt actually know what you meant
No, you were right to point it out as he might have thought I was just referring to the lower end plate of the pump as that is where the relief valve is located. How is your dry sump pump getting on anyway Brian?
Its slow as always Got 2 engines off the stands so Ive a stand free again, I can actually put my block up now, and its not coming off it until its complete Slowly but surely...no rush...
righto, thanks for all that info I did replace the oil pick up pipe and baffle and sump from the DX engine (it is deffo a DX too, I checked the code plus its injected) There were some swarf filings in that sump from the old engines big end shells braking down. I did thoroughly clean the sump but not the pick up pipe (as this problem hadn't occured on the old engine) doh! Looks like a full strip down of oil filter housing, cooler, sump and pick up pipe for the weekend then [:^(] Lets hope I find a nice obvious blocked oil way Also regarding dodgy oil filters, the second filter I bought form a different motor factors (ans hence different make) just in case the 1st one was from a dodgy batch.
I would just start by stripping the oil pumps. Really simple. Once the two M8 mounting bolts are removed it is just the M6 bolts to undo. This will reveal the gears inside the pump chamber and also let you see the relief valve too. Do not be afraid of opening the pump up. It is really simple, just look for any damage like scoring on the chamber walls. Make sure everything is really clean and put back together. There are no gaskets involved. Prime the pump with some oil prior to refitting it and it should lift oil no problem. I would not think you could go far wrong fitting the oil filter housing so no need to remove that again. Ant debris between the pump and filter will be pushed into the filter the moment the engine starts so not a worry about it causing any damage there.
To be honest I would buy a new pump. There not expensive and will give you piece of mind. I've no doubt if you open it up you can do a good job cleaning it out but at the end of the day its at least 20 years old and probably has +170,000km on it. When it happened to me I'd just re-built an EV engine using the new type 2 piece thrust bearings they completely wrote off the crank and block. needless to say the next bottom end I built I used a standard 6 piece set-up Steve
