I make it to setup my Pierburg 2e2 to go idlle 950 with hot engine with but i have a little high revs when it cold about 1800rpm then goes down on 950 working perfect but i think is 1800 rpm is a little big on cold engine 1.6 ez
I don't understand that question. Where have you seen anything about 10 cm? When cold (@20C or less) the pin of the waxstat should be sticking out 2mm beyond the mounting face. And this distance should stay at 2mm even if you push on the pin.
worth a look here also: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?124945 for more detailed information on resetting the linkages inside the carb see my sig, haynes2e2manual.pdf
i set the pin but the pin noy going in the position on the warm up lever it is in the high position about 2 mm under warm up lever, i need to set lover to the position but i dont know, thats of corse when engine is hot.The pin cant going down to the position
Have you checked the waxstat itself? As described here: There is no point in adjusting the mechanism that this pushes, if the waxstat isn't starting and finishing at the right lengths as it warms up. The revs being 1800 strongly suggests to me that you will find that dimension "A" on your waxstat is less than 2mm, maybe even less than zero. This causes the warm-up cam to be rotated further anti-clockwise than it should, which makes the revs higher because of its shape.
I check the waxstat it is ok my waxsatat thats not problem problem is the setings pin to go in the warming up cam lever, when is warm pin not rest on ther position hi is on cold position of warming up lever
OK, so I think you are saying that you have made a tool with 2mm, and 8.15mm pins, as shown in your first link? So with that as shown, with the 8.15mm part pushing the mechanism, the warm-up cam needs to be adjusted (using screw 3) so that item 5 just falls off the end of the cam, as shown in your first link. You may need an assistant to put their foot on the accelerator pedal, to hold item 5 out of the way while you are adjusting the screw.
I'm just remembering now... ...the difficulty with adjusting this is caused by the fact that when the engine is switched off, the 3-point unit, on the other side of the carb, is holding the throttle open so the stop (item 5) is not close to the cam. You may need an assistant to push (hard) the piston of the 3-point unit back out of the way, so that the primary throttle can actually close up to the point where the stop (5) is either on the cam curve, or just off the end as you are trying to achieve.
its probably best to remove the carb completely before attempting this, then you can strip off the 3/4 and bench test all the various parts. worth doign this if only to check the condition of the base flange on the inlet manifold if nothing else! while its off check everything as per the faq plus the haynes 2e2 carb manual in my sig and you should end up with a perfect running car at the end of it
The tool (2) shown on the left of your picture can be fitted as shown, or with the 2mm pin sticking towards the right. In each case, it is designed to simulate the waxstat in its cold (2mm) and warm (8.15mm+) condition. Setting the warm condition is what is shown in your picture, with cam adjusted by screw (3) so that the pin (5) is just missing the end of the cam. This means that the primary throttle plate can close fully (if the 3-point unit on the other side allows) The waxstat now has no influence on the carburettor. As I said in post #14, it is not easy to make this setting, because when the engine is not running, the 3-point unit on the other side of the carb is fully extended, and does not allow the primary throttle to close completely, so the pin doesn't fall back far enough to look like your picture. You need to force the piston of the 3-point unit back against the spring inside to let you take full control of the primary throttle when making this adjustment. (Or use a vacuum pump to do it, Or remove the 3-point unit as rubjonny suggests). With the tool (2) in the 2mm, cold-waxstat position, the primary throttle plate can be adjusted to achieve whatever idling revs you feel comfortable with for the start of the warm-up phase. This corresponds to the pin (5) falling onto the curved surface of the cam, holding the throttle plate more open. The only dimension I can find that may be what you require is the 'basic throttle position' which is given as 0.5mm. This is the gap at the edge of the primary throttle. Here's a photo of some pictures in a book I have. I think this is difficult to adjust with the carb on the engine, but not impossible. The arrow in the right picture is showing the gap being measured. If it needs adjusting, it looks like screw number 9 is turned. I can scan the two pages of the book for you tomorrow, to include the words that go with these photos, but it is all on the ruddies-berlin website I think.
just in case its not clear, part 1 in that picture is the metal pin that is inside the carb you'll see it when the waxstat is removed. as per the post above, the only bit you need to make is the tool labelled 2
