Questions regarding Weber carb for my MK2 Driver 1.6 Auto

Hello,

Sorry for the re-post... I found out the thread I posted earlier has no contents.. wierd...

Anyways, I've decided to ditch the Pierburg 2E2 and bought a Weber carb 32/34 DMTL.. So going through the instructions + haynes manual. (I am a beginner BTW!)

I've managed to remove the Carb, but I am quite confused about the vacuum connection.

The Weber instruction says "For Automatic transmission vehicles fitted with a vacuum control solenoid located on the bulkhead.......", but I have no idea what Vacuum control solenoid is... does anyone know if this exists on my car?

Here is what I've done so far


Look forward to any assistance!

Best regards,
Jay
Southampton

 

EZ pete has a thread about this vacuum control solenoid somewhere. Think he has come to the conclusion that 1.6 cars don't have it. My 1989 1600 driver auto certainly doesn't have one if that helps.

 

cheers guys! I feel so much confident on carrying out the job now!

I think I am going to try taking off the inlet manifold first to check the rubber grommet swelling, as the car often suffers from run-on. I dunno if I am competent enough but I will give it a go anyways...

will keep you posted!

 

I'm glad I came across this thread!!
I'm having allsorts of problems with run-on. My Weber has not long been fitted to my Driver and since then the problems started; i thought it could have been my throttle cable sticking because it wasn't returning fully, sorted that but it still ran on occasionally.
I considered the o-ring but didnt realise it could be so bad... it makes sense now

Are there any other symptoms i need to look out for? Like with the choke and less power output?
Are there any other methods of cleaning out carbon buildup?

 

Glad someone else found the thread useful.

Thanks for the post rubjonny, I didn't know that the o-rings didn't affect the Weber so I was THIS close to buying new gasket and new grommets + some tools to remove the inlet manifold...

 

i've just checked my spark plugs. They indicate that my engine may be running lean as there is hardly a hint of coking on them. i must have a leak on the seal somewhere as it feels as though i have loss of power too due to a weak mixture. My carb had a paper gasket that fits between the carb and manifold, would this fit over the rubber one?

My Dad has just emailed me this...

"Check the operation of the fuel shut off solonoid first. Running on can be caused by a few things, if engine runs hot you can experience burning of fuel entering cylinders after ignition is switched off, fuel is ignited by hot plugs or hot carbon deposits, I don't believe the engine is coked up because the plugs are showing towards lean mix. If fuel ignited in manifold as you have suggested, caused by carbon deposits in manifold you would get blowing back up through the carb, fuel is being ignited in the cylinders which is making it run on, hence my suggestion to check operation of fuel shut off solenoid."

Looks like i'm in for a bit of fun tonight!! Good times I hope this helps anyone else

 

Igntion timing could be out.

 

Checked the timing t'other day. its all good in that department.

I knew you meant the cylinders rub...i think my Dad was in two trains of thought when he emailed me

Sorry xcellent if i've hijacked your thread somehow i've managed to moan about my car and not let you moan about yours

 

really, don't worry about it mate! I am glad theres discussion going on, besides, I've suffered from run-ons so quite interested myself.

anyways, not much progress on my Weber fitting as its real miserable weather outside to work on... but I have few Q's.

1) how tight should the 'shouldered stud' be screwed in to the baseplate? it's quite hard to get it in real tight.. tried locking them with 'two' nuts but ended up with one nut getting stuck on the stud, which drove me nuts.. (took it off eventually tho)

2) I bought an accelerator cable from Eurocarparts, to replace the current one as a mechanic told me some time ago that its a bit bent and could cause sticking, resulting run-on. Anyways, the cable they sent seems to be pedal to gearbox(?) cable.. Is there a specific accelerator cable (the one leading to the carb) for Automatic gearbox? or does manual and auto both use same cables? I couldn't find one on GSF and Eurocarparts...




Sorry for so basic questions, I am at a very beginner lever, but eager to climb up!

 

That looks like the pedal to gearbox bit. I always thought the gearbox to carb bit would be part of the assembly - but obviously not. I'd go to VW for that part and look on the parts computer with the parts man. Leave it for now and see how the old one works.
When you lock the nuts together, DONT put the first one all the way to the bottom of the stud, then ONLY turn the next nut with the spanner. This will stop them running to far down the threaded section and getting stuck and stopping the base tightening properly.

 

It does for an auto though, they go to the gearbox from the pedal, then to the carb from the gearbox. Its how the kickdown mech knows to kick down a gear

http://www.vwgolf-mk2.com/eaccelwire.html

***edit ****look at the bottom picture

 

Cheers! I guess I will just return that cable then.

BTW, is it OK with a gap between heater element and the carb?


Anyways, below pic is the progress so far.. Going very slow due to work load at Uni... But I have a day off today (wed) so hopefully gonna try to finish it up, although I got a feeling installing the choke cable is going to be a real tough job!

 

As long as the metal centre of the heater element is touching the carb body it'll work. Its spring loaded if that helps you decide ifi its a dud or fitted wrong. It'll work without it in fact but better with it.
The choke cable is dead easy, you'll have a genuine weber one, I had fitted a one from a rover V8. There is a blank on the bottom of your dash to the left of the steering wheel, just unscrew that and you have the perfect mounting place (its the designed place for choke cable on smaller golfs). Get someone to check the choke flap opens and closes properly when you're done and job will be a good un.