Questions regarding Weber carb for my MK2 Driver 1.6 Auto

Yeah, that's def worth knowing. I nearly damaged my dash by thinking it was clipped and attempting to lever it off with a screwdriver!

 

yep indeedy. I took the ham-fisted approach and it wouldnt budge...i was close to turning big and green and tearing the dash apart with my bare hands Raaaaah!!....and relax

 

Thanks for the tips!

I tested the Weber without installing the choke cable, didn't start at first, but after fiddling around it suddenly started! test drove a bit and seemed fine!

but regarding choke cable installation

1) Where should the choke cable go through? Is there an already existing free hole or do i have to drill a hole in the bulkhead or something? I couldn't find any gaps..

2) So, after the installation it should look something like this?


What is this "bezel" the instruction is keep talking about btw? A or B (on pic)?

 

The bezel will be A, I would imagine.
You should be able to spot a blanking grommet somewere in the bulkhead on the drivers side, just open one of those out, or you could share an open grommet with something else going through the bulkhead. I'm pretty sure there are a few blanks though.

 

yes but the 'blank' maximo mentioned previously was the one for mounting (below-left of steering) choke handle, whereas the new post is regarding the blank for letting the cable through the bulkhead..

i will give it a go fitting as I get home!

 

Here are the photos of the Weber carb after fitting! (my cameras a bit f'ed up btw)
Does it look OK?







Thanks to Rubjonny and Maximo, the Carb is fitted! This is the most 'mechanical' thing I've ever done to my car and quite proud!

Fitting the choke cable was dead easy! I dunno why a mechanic at this MOT place told me its pain in the ass.

I took it for a spin and it seemed to work OK. Plus, there was no run-on at all.

But I have some issues.

1. The accel. pedal sometimes doesn't return. Didn't happen before and scared the sh*t out of me a few times. What might be the problem? (bent accel. cable to carb maybe?)

2. Is it normal to use the choke from cold start on days like this? (I'm in Southampton and its about 5-10 degrees celcius) The car didn't start without the choke, and I had to fully pull out the choke + I had to give it a gas. After about 15-30 secs its all good tho.

 

bump....

 

The linkage could be sticking on the carb or the cable could be bent at too tight an angle (or kinked). You could try moving the throttle flap at the carb and see if you can find where it's sticking.

I would have thought you'd need some choke unless it's a warm morning (not that likely at the moment). I don't know whether the choke on a webber raises the idle speed, but if everything was as it should be then you shouldn't need any gas (you don't on a perfect pierburg).

 

I always use the choke to start mine from cold, whatever the outside temp, and push it in gradual as the engine warms up and performance starts to suffer. A hot engine should start without it and a warm engine sometimes does and sometimes doesn't.
Check all the throttle cable mounting points and linkages and graese them up then get in the car and start pressing the accel pedal (with the engine off) to ease it all up, grease and do it again. it should free up. Check none of the return springs have come off down the gearbox end of things.
Is the telescopic bit of your cable a bit bent (next to the carb)? its hard to tell on the pic.

 

found out a little tip for anyone who's had run-on problems with new Webers. The spindle on which the throttle cams sits is lubed in the factory but when in storage for a while this can dry up and make the cam a little sticky on its return when the throttle is off. A couple of drops of oil either end should do the trick...worked with mine; had no troubles since and saved me shed loads of time/money/hair without taking the damn thing apart.

It might not be the case for others but might be worth considering as a factor...

 

did you need to change and linkage for the throttle cabble?

 

The Weber DMTL carb should not need the linkage changed if it is the correct type of conversion carb kit.
These carbs were also available for other cars like Vauxhall and BMW. If buying second hand you need to make sure they come with the necessary adaptor plate and associated parts to allow fitting on either the 1.6 / 1.8 big block, or the 1.1 / 1.3 small block engines.

Stumpy, if you post a few more times you will get the PM function.

 

I think I may have bought the wrong carb then as my throttle cable is the same as the one In the pic above,
But the linkage that's on the new webber won't attach to throttle cable ??

Also do you have pics of your filter please?

 

Is your car an automatic? This picture shows a different type of throttle cable from the manual gearbox cars because the autobox has a requirement for a kickdown cable.

Can you get a pic up of your carb and the parts you got with it?

Post a few more times you will get the PM function to ask about the filter.

 

I can email a few pics but I can't post a pic as I'm using my iPhone :s
Yea mines a mk1 auto, the cable goesto the box first then to the carb

 

So you bought a carb and the throttle arm does not match your throttle cable then?
You probably got a carb for a manual car.

Does it look like this?

 

That looks like it I was told to change the linkage over?? Or is that not right ?? I have been of the road for a few days now please say I can do something?

 

It is possible that you could swap the outer throttle arm over from your existing carb to the Weber.
If trying this be very careful you do not lose any of the shims or spacers that are fitted behind the throttle arm. There are a few bits held on by the nut that work the linkage for the 2 butterflies.