Redrilling wheels - has this guy found the limit?

My poor description no helping...
Tapered section clearly visible to get the inner section of the wheel to locate on the machined parallel section nearest the hub - this was a neat sliding fit. Not sure what the correct engineering term would be.

You can see it here too:


The outer part of the wheel has a large conical machined section, which mates to a nut like this (poor pics...the only ones I can find):


Which presumably keeps the outer edge of the wheel centred, and applies the clamping force?

 

I'm struggling to find it...

PET (Porsche's version of ETKA) lists: 000 043 020 00, Optimoly Paste, 100g, on the page showing brakes...but doesn't specify it's use...I seem to recall this was for the pad seciring pins on the callipers.
The page showing the wheel bolts shows nothing.

The Technical information is supplied by the OPC's workshop computer - the software sadly, I don't have a copy of!

PET shows many differing greases/assembly lubricants...none of which have anything more than a part number associated with them. Sorry.

 

Nice kit!

Is this Honda? The first one Ducati?

 

Not sure to be honest. Just random images. The first is Ducati 916/996.
Mine was a Ducati 916 corsa rear hub on a Metmachex swing arm, on a Honda Fireblade, with PVM Mg wheels!

 

Musta forgot the plastic spigot ring. . .

 

Guess the celeb......

 

Looking through the round window..........I think I see Nicky Grist?

 

Is Nicky Grist a celeb? Surely not!

Is he talentless and paid a fortune? No!

Has he appeared on any TV soaps? No!

Has he appeared on the front page of The Sun, or The Star, or The Mail, or The Telegraph?

Has he made an advert for car insurance?

Has he been married to a Royal?

OK. He has advertised Martini! But, so has Leonard Rossiter, may his god love him as we did, and he had talent as well.

Is this another hyjack?

 

Leonardo di Rossiter advertized Cinzano, cmon daved get yer 70s references right

 

Nope - forgot to countersink it for a centrenut

 

I'll be redrilling a set of borbet a in a week, I'll a guide, not that you can do it at home mind.

 

Is this a case of someone putting their FOOT in verMOUTH?

The Martini race cars were far more memorable than the Cinzano ones!

 

Oh bugger, measured up today after collection. Turns out I would be doing the same as this topic. so I won't be redrilling
10x16" and 8x16" and 5 x120mm pcd am I doomed from the start?

 

Depends on how much metal you have left on the inside. All you need is enough to have the strength from the inner ring of the wheel to take the clamping force from the bolt. You need to look at forces imposed by the taper or radius'd bolts bolts into the aluminium wheel. Or maybe if you use sleeved nuts like http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12mx1-5-sleev...Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item5d288018c7

You then will be ok as long as you have enough space for the whole of the seat to seat on the wheel.

 

Thanks, I'll put it up on the miller and take a more in depth look. Good shout on the nuts

 

I think Practical Performance Car magazine did an article a while back on altering wheel mounting bolt PCD.
They machined new alloy plugs and inserted them into existing holes, then redrilled at the new desired PCD. They did it on Revolution 4 spokes IIRC.

It will be worth inspecting the inner mounting face of the wheel, as often this area in between the holes is not solid alloy due to the casting process.

 

Just a note.

Ive raced for 4 years with no spigot rings on proper motorsport studs and the car did many years before that with no rings and never had a nut come loose or any problems. I run BTCC slicks, jump big curbs and put massive forces through the car

Also on my road car ive covered 50k on a set of rims with no spigot rings. No vibrations no bolts loose etc.

Wheels which come off do so IMO from incorrect centering and torquing sequence of the bolts. Or paint on the rear face of the wheel which fits to the face of the disc/bell or again paint, where the bolts/nuts fit to the alloy wheel.

Anyway carry on your thread

 

^ I agree completely regarding the paint, and thanks to danster for the info. Unfortunately I can't use either method its far to close to the centre bore, as in the countersink would be breaking through to the centre.

For the record I'm of the opion that spigots are for location otherwise the tolerances would be much tighter and almost a press fit if it was load bearing. I believe the load is spread uniformly across the back face of wheel and hub

 

Would you also agree with abrading the four mating surfaces to a suitable finish?

No, the pressure is not spread uniformly across the back face of the wheel, disc and hub. The load bearing area, is that area projected at 45 deg., or so, from the edge of the clamping device.

ie. From the outer edge of the nut or bolt head at 45 deg., through the material being clamped. Material without that area is redundant!

You only have to look at the blue Porsche bell face below to see this effect!