Royal Blue MK2 GTI, 16v KR then ABF, now abf management+widetrack

i got it wired to aftermarket 5 wire actuators and the mk2 (well, B4 passat) door pin switches

if you're interested i have 5 spare convenience modules lots of looms and a few mk4 keys left over from my experiments

 

Steadily beavering away, first up dash loom all done as you can see its slightly more complex, this bit doesnt even include the switch, stalk or clock looms!


Also all the new soundproofing is now in:

 

alrighty! I've been slooooowly working on this on the odd day but some progress has been made!

first up since I couldnt be bothered to fit the a/c fan housing just yet, with all the glovebox and try cutting that would entail I modified the mk2 blower housing so I could fit the MK4 fan resistor and inlet air temp sensor. I had to skip the recirculation flap motor as that would have been far too much work to fit:


I then fitted this to the car, job done so I thought, but how wrong I was!


So then I tried to fit the front air distribution vent assembly it hit the dash support bars, so as it turns out the lower stud on the MK4 airbox isn't the correct height for a MK2 as I first thought but it is actually around 10mm too low. Plus it sat a bit too close to the bulkhead so I had to strip it off the bulkhead again and drill 2 new holes, which was less than ideal. of course the lower most difficult to reach hole decided to go to pot (my fault really, blunt drill bit!) So that took a fair bit of effort to flatten out and file neat again. Then finally it was all bolted back on and correct. To space it I simply threaded a couple of nuts onto the studs to push it clear of the bulkhead. Fiddly process but got there in the end!

Then I decided to bolt on the windscreen distribution vent, and of course I dropped one of the screws into the airbox so it had to come off AGAIN so I could fish it out, luckily I managed to get to it thru the fan blower vent hole in the side as I was getting quite annoyed by this stage

fast forward a few days and the dash finally goes in:


Great I thinks! Progress at last! I wonder if any of you eagle eyed people can spot the fail before you scroll down....


















Yup, I forgot to fit the side vent tubes So dash had to come out AGAIN so I could fit those in
but I carried on and eventually got to this stage:


and finally:


Just need to get a MK4 climate trim to cover the edges, but that can wait for now I have to get the stalks and wheel on, finish the slam panel wiring (MK3 lighting loom with round loom plug connector for slam panel) fit some non-illegal wheels/tyres and then get it to the MOT station!

 

you know i actually have an oem MK2 radio surround trim in my bits box! why the hell didnt i think of that earlier

 

Cheers Tristan indeed I was not happy when that screw rattled away out of reach

My MK2 is now suffering from an identity crisis, "am I a MK2? or a MK3? a MK4? or perhaps a Passat?"

 

not much work done on this, until last week when the front top bolt sheared in my solid front mount, have swapped that for a corrado VR6 front engine carrier and mount (no pics sorry) and I stupidly decided to use my front driver side jacking point as I needed to swap wheels in a hurry and didnt fancy doing the jack under sill a bit then go under subframe. mistake in my defence the jacking points were both rock solid a few years back but obviously the rot had taken hold!

Doh:


More doh:


Yet more doh:


Bzzt:


Bzzt and paint:


Paint:


Not bad I recon considering I had to do it all with my eyes shut and fighting a dodgy wire feed issue

 

i had to add a washer to the feed tensioner on my mig welder to stop it slipping
they can be a pain if not slipping it's bunching up in a knot

thought you said you couldn't weld look's good to me

 

i had to add a washer to the feed tensioner on my mig welder to stop it slipping
they can be a pain if not slipping it's bunching up in a knot

thought you said you couldn't weld look's good to me

 

i had to add a washer to the feed tensioner on my mig welder to stop it slipping
they can be a pain if not slipping it's bunching up in a knot

thought you said you couldn't weld look's good to me

 

I got it going ok, then allowed the wire spool to slip so its all buggered now, had to stop every 2 mins or so to unjam the reel

should have cut a bit more floorpan out in the end as it was a bit thin so I adding a lot of bridge welds, grind flat and boom, another hole so more bridging, grind, another hole etc. If you look close at the before and after pic you can see just how far I had to go towards the top right of the hole

it looks fine after grindign down, but there was a lot of pigeon poo involved with the sealing up of that hole but I got there. Leant my auto dimming mask out so all i had was a cheap non-dimming, in the end I chucked it away in frustration and just went without just as easy to do that.

I've been on a weldign course a while back but this is my first go welding on an actual car, the welder is pretty good its a gasless clarke 90. the main problem with it is since its gassless when you do wee spots it puts out sotty welds which messes up future welding, and since I cant see I cant do anything other than quick spots it was slow going. I almost gave it up in a rage after going thru the floorpan for the 4th time grinding back but I'm glad I persevered

The jackign point patch was much easier as its thicker there plus got plenty of practice doing the floor, so knocked that one out in 10 mins or so once the patch was shaped. the floorpan took hours as it bloody thin and as I say I didnt really cut enough out as it was a bit toooo frilly for comfort

edit: used a top tip from retro rides makign up the floorpan patch, used suitable size socket and a vice to knock the dip in the pan to replicate factory pressing

 

Cheers for your kind comments on my crappy welds anyway all

I got a mate who would have happily done it but its a trip down the m4 to slough and the MOT ran out last week so would have involved booking an MOT local to him then 'not making it'

 

if it's a bit thin you can overlap it at the edges and weld both sides

i find with my mig if you turn up the feed it welds a lot better as it works the power and feed

you get trapped in thinking you need less wire when it's more amps you need
have a good play with it one day on some scrap

dose your's have gas as well as mine is a gasless but has the gas regulator as well i'v only used it with gas
i'v got a pub co2 cylinder to use once i used up the small ones i have

 

yeah it would have been easier to do that, but I wanted a seemless looking repair on both sides thats the problem, should have just butted/jodded tbh to save my blood pressure.

I did overlapped patch for the jacking patch and way easier, with that I'm not as bothered since long term the whole panel will be taken out and replaced with a complete repair panel in the future. (waaay, waaay off in the future, when I have a big workshop, and a spit to put the car on)

Mine can be converted to gas aye, tbh I think the main problem is not being able to see what I was doing and I dont think I cleaned the panel up enough before I started as once i had tickled it a few times with the flap wheel the welds after seemed to go on better just a shame it was too thin so blew thru more! Learnt my lesson underneath as i gave it all another buff back with the flap wheel before I started and that was much better