so you recon just replacing the front box, from the down pipe to the middle box with 2.5" should be OK? sounds good to me, means i don't have to make a 2.5" system to the back box. BTW what spec engine were you running to get 275 BHP @ the wheels?
yep that's what i've got, got a reducer just before what would be the middle box. That's a BAM code TT engine on Motec management with a Dialynx map, ran 1.5 bar sustained boost, 1.7 bar peak. it'll be back on the road in a new shell shortly, just finishing the wiring/pipework at the mo.
Just out of interest Dub20vt what turbo are you running to get that power and what other mods have you done to you engine. Cheers
as listed in the post above. stock TT engine on motec, with dialynx map. add to the engine a decent intercooler and your laughing.
lol... got to see how it responds to the new turbo etc (had it rebuilt after car accident). also depends what age engine you have aswell. Sprinter ICs seem to be able to handle the power but they're not the best design.. bang per buck they're good value though. personally i've got a custom allard IC.
dont use a sprinter IC, for the price you are paying and the headache to fit its not worth. Also you hve to realise that the efficiency of the sprinter intercooler wont be as good as a proper designed one for perfromance cars, you are dealing with plastic entanks and lower efficiency core. For a mk2 I would use a shorter thicker ic instead of the long thin sprinter one, you can position it at the bottom of the bumper middle vent, its no good having a big intercooler hidden behind the bumper, it must recieve air. I am doing these type of intercoolers, its a garret core v efficient and nice and small perfect for moderate power on a mk2, well 350 hp or so, have it on G60 mk2 and 20vt with good results.
it's an APY. 2000 i think, might be wrong on the age. i see what you saying about the I/C but it's the cost that's a big factor ATM and also the pipework would be shorter with the sprinter one. if one comes up at the right price i would defo get one. what dimentions is the one in the pic?
the one in the pic its the smallest in the range, I sell them for 265 pounds and the dimensions are 26 3/4" Length x 6 1/4" Height x 3 1/2" Depth.
That is the overall size, the size of inlet/outlet is 2.5". I also have larger ones, check my website for more info on pricing ect. thanks
thanks for that. what about the pipe work size? if the in/out lets are 2.5" (63mm) fitting to the pipe that comes from the turbo is not an issue as there the same size. but my TB is 70mm O/D so would it be best to step it up after the I/C and have a 70mm pipe all the way to the TB or run a 63mm pipe from the I/C all the way to the TB and then step it up to fit?
You wont need to increase the size of the pipe. How much hp are you shooting for? 500+? You can lose pressure and reposne if you increase the pipe size as you need more boost to fill them up, maybe not able to feel it but on a dyno you can tell the difference. I run an 85mm throttle and 2.5" intercooler piping and have no problems. On the big turbos ie GT42R you need to increase pipe size as even the outlet on thr turbo is BIG, but they produce 1200hp so I say we are cool . Just do the same piping all the way to throttle and then put a reducer and you will be ok.
Just thought I would venture another opinion I used the out of the box mapping on my car and had it on the rollers the other day, operator said the fueling was spot on.
