Stripping out car - Dash for MOT & what switches?

As a weekend go kart i'd love the mk1 106 1.3 Rallye with 100hp at 7200rpm!

I have thought about an XSI, but they lack the 'ooomph' and i know they're not quicker than my Arosa (in a straight)

106 Rallye are great, but infact they don't have 120hp as they don't house the 106 GTI engine. I'm sure they have a 1.6 8v engine that tops out 103hp.

As for gauges, i'd want some once i progress the car onto a track to keep an eye out for oil temps/pressure etc....

Been thinking and reading somemore. Think i'm going to start off with a basic stock car that I can tear virtually everything out. Majority of the time/money will be spent on changing all the suspension/bushes as well as upgrading the braking system/servos etc....

Not going for all out power (1/4 mile pub/stat chat) but rather being able to know it can go round the b-road twistys quickly and effectively.

I keep thinking of a 205 mi-16 but depsite being very rapid i just don't think i can trust half the self-conversions out there really. But at some popping around 1500 it is a fast bucket with lots of track potential.

306 GTI-6 is a good option, but part of me feels its 'too good' to full tear out the interior and the 205 seems to have more tuning potential in engine, suspension, brakes at a reasonable financial cost rather than a larger newer 306

 

Am I right in thinking the mi16 is a 2.0 16v for the pug?

Surely you'll be better off with a 2.0 mk2..

 

The mi-16's are a 1.9 16v engine that have 160hp, but in the 205 prove a good track weapon

Mmm... a mk2 would be a nice, but i would want to buy one which already had the bottom end/engine changed.

 

Ahh, I always thought the 1.6 106 Rallye had the GTi engine - I think I must be confused with the 306 Rallye then, as I'm pretty definite that had the same 6-speed gearbox and engine as the GTi-6!

I also used to have a 306 S16, you might not feel too bad about stripping one of those as they're cheap-ish now... and you'd probably make some money back on the parts as it's half leather interior was nice... but a relatively rare car as they were only made for a couple of years before being superseded by the GTi-6. Tail happy lift-off oversteer though as we've mentioned in a previous thread somewhere!

Vauxhall nova with the cavalier 2.0 16v in it? Buy both an MOT failure Nova and Cavalier for peanuts, and then swap the brakes and engine over from the Cav to the Nova!

Sounds like you're looking more for a ready-made solution though, that you can have the fun of tearing to bits and sorting the suspension! I'd still start with a hot-hatch version of the 106 personally.

 

Yep the 306 Rallyes are a stripped out 306 GTI-6 and is a praised car.

But sadly they also comand good money and are too good to strip for track.

Nova?? Sadly can't be driving one of them!

A hot hatch 106 is a good start, but Saxo VTS's are cheaper which make that a good base to start with compared to the 106's

 

True, the VTS is a quick car (although the 0-60 time is a bit misleading isn't it, because the 2nd gear is so long) - but you scoff at my Nova idea and now you're talking about driving a Saxo?! You'll be looking at the Corsa GSi next...!

 

As a kid i think i swore that i would never own a nova

Corsa GSI??? Behave!

There are plenty of Nova's around, but every time i think of a Nova it reminds me the day I nearly wet myself when i saw a rear view sticker saying

'you've just been NOVATAKEN'

306 GTI-6 is nice, but in the long run proves to be more expensive to run.
Saxo VTS are nice, but in my budget generally tend to be high millers.

 

Get a BMW E30 325i RWD stripped out fun all day lol.

M50 engines drop straight in 192bhp standard. Plenty of torque. And can be had cheap out of E34 5 series above 94. 93 was non vanos, and before that was the old M20. Rattler.

 

**BLAST FROM THE PAST**



Stripping out the dash to sort some electrics, however i'll probably leave the dash out whilst it goes for its visit down the MOT centre early next year.

Anyone got any tips how they've secured their clocks and dash without adding any fancy braces or custom switch housing?

If i'm correct the only switch I need to keep is the rear fog lamp and the headlights? Could these simply just be secured by cable ties and not fully mounted (likely to be loosely held by cable ties)

 

with just the dash removed i think you have sharp edges showing?

 

This is what i'm after without the metal switch cut outs.

Not too sure about the whole sharp edges; read an MOT testing details sheet and only thing about reason for failure is if the steering wheel is damaged and may injure the drivers hand.

But wasn't sure about general interior sharp edges. Might have a look into that

 

Reason i mentioned it was that most people i have seen that run without dashboards tend to remove all the bits not needed or anything sharp though that's not to say it would fail.

 

Yeah thats the route i'm going for; literally remove everything but want to look at air vent in the car first as well, but main reason is to sort the electrics but in the mean time want an MOT. Cheers for the input though; think it'll be a trial and error of removing things slowly.

 

Not sure where but someone on here had no dash & just a box with warning lights & indicators all labeled up & a speedo.

How bad are the electrics?

 

Well for starters want to take out the electric windows; but as the VR6 conversion wasn't done by myself there seems far too much items not connected properly and a lot of bare connectors.

Things like front window washer cables, brake fluid sensor, rev counter mis-reading and other smaller electrical issues. Plus the engine seems to have a few connectors missing but want to get the full wiring exposed as loads wrapped up and hidden.

 

sounds like my mk1, the only problems i ever had all traced back to electrical faults.

 

If you can see there's that thick cable on the drivers seat than ends up with a load of wires so it looks like one of those fibre optic lamps....time to find out why they were never connected to anything and what the heck they are needed for as they seem to be connected to the fuse box for some reason...

 

just an idea, but why dont you just go round to your mot test centre and ask the tester exactly what switches, dials etc he requires for the mot and wether or not you can run without a dash if theres no sharp edges to hurt yourself on....

job done....

 

Because some people on this Forum are MOT tester's and most MOT centre's i've been too don't actually let you near the MOT testing area where the tester's will be.

Why do people ask mechanical questions on here....why don't they just ask their mechanic? Because its easier and quicker.