Discussion in '8-valve' started by Phil., Nov 2, 2006.
We have JMR, or Jtech performance that can advise on choices.
would a gs2h go in a mk3 AGG? the kent website gives differewnt part numbers for the mk2 and mk3.
is this just for different lifts and durations or will they physically not fit?
Will physically fit as far as I'm aware although I never use the MK3 heads just scrap them and use the blocks. Just use MK1 & 2 ones. Probably slightly different grinds to suit the differing std fuel systems, maybe the MK3 has a cat or something?
Tectonics tuning are in California I think...highly regarded VW tuner in the states...they do a range of cams. I'd look at around mid 270 duration for a regular street driven car on std type injection.
Going to mate up a 1.8 bottom end to the puny 'EZ' anytime soon, and after driveability from the 8V.
So far considering the 268 from Schrick, as a simple drop-in, potentially with a mild optimalization to the head too. Good choice?
What do you guys recommend for a 2.0 8V if I’m to keep the cylinder head 100% OEM? Ideally I would not change springs, lifters, etc... I’d like to keep all of that stock as it came from factory.
Any suggestions? Maybe a 268 or 272 tops?
I've got an aftermarket cam in a 2.0 8v cylinder head, a Kent GS2H, which is 268 or 270 i can't remember exactly. The head has been ported, polished and with bigger valves but retains the oem lifters, double valve springs and caps, i've had no issues whatsoever. the 2E head came with double valve springs from the factory and later ADY and AGG heads had single valve springs, so the 2E setup is preferable.
Obviously upgrading the cam without enlarging ports and also the inlet valves for some cams is gonna be a waste of time, and also improving flow into and out of the head, therefore exhaust manifold etc.
Basically, without porting and polishing, potentially bigger valves too, and at bare minimum a better downpipe off the factory cast exhaust manifold the cam is gonna be a waste of a few hundred quid, once you've bought the cam, done a cambelt and waterpump and timed it up to suit the new cam.
Your on the right lines. It depends on the 2ltr you have...an original mk3 or a 2ltr block in a mk1/mk2 with either an original solid lifter or hydro head.
I'm running a Mk2 PB with 2L block (3A) and looking to add a Newman 268 cam for bit more Oomph along with some head porting/polishing work, 4-1 manifold & Jetex exhaust.
Car is a daily driver thought so this should be ok as don't want a lumpy idle??
Should do just fine, I believe a 272 would do too.
Come to think of it, search for James Cope at Youtube.
He is running a Newman 268 in his GTI 8V "quite" well.
Hi im going to get my 8v pb head ported and polished and something Will be done to the intake and im wondering what cam should i use 268, 270 or 272 or some other one please tell me.
is that the extent of the mods?
what's the plan for the car? fast road presumably?
fitting a cam without all the stuff you mention isn't not going to be a waste of time, you will still see improvements, but you wont get the full benefit of the cam.
the longer duration will help the engine breath for longer on each given stroke. think of it as you underwater breathing through a straw, the std cam is you inhaling for 3 seconds the upgraded cam is you inhaling for 4 seconds, now swap that straw for a hose pipe, the increase in diameter again improves your ability to breathe, that's what you describe.
I have had various engines in the last 20 years, from a std 2E with a std PB head and GSH2 cam, great daily driver. to a long stroke 2.1 with big valve head with a 288 cam and I now have a 1900 with a big valve head with a 294 cam. all basically the same engine but perform very differently.
sorry that it took so long to answer. and yes fast road car that i can take on track for fun, car will get full exhaust, ported head and intake for now
Hi lads I am in need of a bit of help! I bought a ported and polished head and fitted a 272 cam so got it fitted to my 2.0 8v ady and now I have no compression the car drove in so it has to be something to do with the head but everywhere I’ve read the 272 should work with standard valve springs etc
Playing with a 2L 8V at 11.7 CR and an autotech head with 270 schrick. Pretty much starts coming alive at 2000rpm, probbaly ideal for
a road motor. Not been to the rroad yet, just playing with mapping in the garage. 45 bodies, Omex ECU, blah
Proper exhaust, going to be a race/rally/sprint car, blinged to hell as berg cup thing at the moment anyway
I was wondering if 8v engines need proper compression for a nice cam. Frankly I was a little disappointed with my own 2.0 8v, with TSR mk2 head and cam when I first drove it. I'd just expected more.
Stock header, stock Exhaust - what would optimize for best elasticity (drive ability on heavier car) ?
266/110/11,1 or 267/114/11,2 or 270/112/11,4 ?
yes I understand lobe area is most important, so a general idea on preferential item...
There wont be much between those cams as durations and lift are close...and would choose between 112 or 114 lobe centre
and eventually a few degrees advanced
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