Dave walker said recently that camminess was mostly a carb issue rather than a cam issue, so if Alan is squirting his, the WOT issue won't be as severe, and he can work around a lot of the potential flat spots etc however Dave is trying to sell EMS so he may be a little biased, but i do know where he is coming from from my days of big cam/ bore minis on a single 45
I think your last paragraph sums it up, though EMS is certainly better in many respects, as the power above (and that is at full load/throttle) shows, big carbs, even with big chokes can be made to work if set up correctly.
i think like mike says, ill build it up and see how it goes, im still stuck for a cam as im sure the GS2H (270) with give plenty of low torque but may not give enough up thro the revs? if my interpretation of the cam durations is correct. As my engine is running a diesel crank it wont rev to 9k, and i wont really push it much further than 7 depending initially depending on power delivery, im sure that mapping the engine will be challenging (1st attempt) enough. Let me get used to it then ill add some more goodies later, maybe try the 288 schrick or go even further. mr H your engine sound like a screamer, and probably more than i want to live with altho the figures would be nice to have! but a bit lower than they are in your car.
would this be any good? a bit confused, too much information for my small brain.http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=765-0101&lvl=2&prt=5 plus i have been up most of the night with the little one most of the night!
I would as you have all the bits ready, big numbers arnt everything. With that cam, I'd estimate peak power between low to mid 5k's in that capacity, I doubt you'll ever need to rev it over 6,5-6,7 absolute tops.. In fact, change up at 6k and let the torque do the work. No, I'd certainly never rev a long stroke crank that high, you'd never need to. You'll get away with much more cam duration mapped on tb's, though as a road engine I still wouldnt use much more than around the 290 mark, so that 288 Schrick would be good, or you'll be chasing compression ratios. No, you couldnt live with mine on a day to day bases, it gets on my nerves after about half an hour (mainly the paddle clutch) unless driven as intended..
Oddly enough, I was looking at that today. According to the comp ratio calculator on the net it's around 13.3:1.. though the dynamic (running) ratio is a lot lower with the race cam I run. I'll soon know when I strip it in the new year and re-check it. I've just used to same calculator for my friends 2ltr 8v we've just done and made it 11.13:1... again, a lower running ratio with the cam we're using. Working it out with good o'l pen and paper it came out at 11.25:1, so not a million miles off.
when i had the pistons altered to allow for the stroke we decided that 11:1 would be enough for a road car.
i know mart revs his higher but i think that the crank he uses is modified further than mine. so will stop @7k ill get on the blower to phillip walker tomorrow about cam choice see what he has to say
Crane stuff is "very" good.. in fact exellent. I use their valve springs in mine, and have seen their cams in VW 8v and 205 8v with great results.. pity Crane Cams Europe (UK) have gone, they had some great profiles. The one on e-bay looks good, fairly strong power at the top end but would be fine in yours. It would need the correct valve springs to go with it... I have a UK source for the springs if you went for it.
Its a different ball game with a 16v-er though, better breathing overall and a longer power spread. There's generally never much point reving much over 1,000rpm past peak power revs with a tame cam in a big capacity 8v engine as the power drops off quickly.. change up and enjoy the torque. More static compression can be used (in fact is normally needed) the higher the spec the cam you go, or else low end power and responce suffers. Speak to fthimike on here as well, he runs a 2.1 with a 282 degree cam on K-jet, he'll be able to give you an idea of what it's like to live with.
i think mike's cam is a tsr 203, which there isnt much info on that i can find. had an email from phillip walker who said that a 276 had given the best power on a 2.1 in the past from his experience. Im not sure that it would have been an engine on itb's on SEM, probably running a plenum and original injection, ill have to find out.
A 203 had (has) 282 degree's duration and 11.6mm lift, any cam of similar spec will give similar results, unless theres a radical difference in valve acceleration. Phillip's certainly right, a 276 is a great all-rounder (GTi engineering used 276 Schricks in their conversions many moons ago) when used with the stock injection/plenum, but I'd be inclined to go up a cam on yours (282-288) with tb's and management, plus the longer stroke crank will help pull up the low end torque, though you must be carefull to match the compression ratio with the cam.
That crane cam is pretty hairy... and you might need to get the head modded to allow the nose to clear the tappet area. The CR you can run is impacted a lot by the fuelling. What are you running Al? With a fast road cam, 11:1 is probably close to the limit of what you can fuel with digifant, as it tends to run pretty lean. Getting it to run a bit cooler will help.
im sure it abouts 10.9 or 11 to 1. Mart may remember i cant find the original details of what we discussed. Im sure it was 11 or slightly lower, as im sure that figures of 11 were discussed as the limits of the digifant system & running a plenum, which was the original plan.
To run a cam of around 288 duration, or that Crane @ 292, you'd need a static c.r of around 11.5:1, which would be no problem with all factors correct (squish clearance, ignition timing, water temp etc). Your current c.r is ok with the cam your going to run (GS2H ?). Do you know the cc in the head & pistons, and the deck height (how far down the bore the piston will be at tdc) ?
the head cc is 29.5cc. thats 0.5cc less than std? which is from a skim., unsure of the piston dish cc whats the best way to measure it? the piston top sits flush with the block much like a std engine, ill have a look tonight and take a picture or two.