Rubjonny/ timing redone at 2250 dealings.................. OMFG!! The transformation is epic.......3-4k is so torquey in every gear.......including 5th! If it ever seemed under-geared it REALLY does now!! The tickover lumpiness is accentuated - making me believe moreso now that it's running rich. Oil temp stayed at 100 for the 10 mile round trip....I was being gentle too. Timo16v / yerr i better speak to Vince. I know a few people in this area at the various tuning places but not Stealth. They are just up the road so dead easy to get to.
....where did you set your timing to in the end fella? could be overfuelling on those injectors too .....i would check the plugs for soot vince & co are top blokes and one of very few in the UK with an Emulator to map on the fly......AMD can also but wanted 100 more but vince came more recommended so it was win win for me
I set it for 6degrees at present. My timing light shows digital RPM when you lift your finger off the trigger which is helpful.......however i was without any help and holding the revs / strobe light / twisting dizzy meant I had to tit about with it a fair bit till i got the dot central on the window. The strobe has an adjustable advance delay so you can dial-in the required advance and just ping the TDC marker in the window instead. Ideal if you're going off the stock settings.
haha yeah the difference is night and day aint it with the co setting you really need to go to a garage or get a good pro tester, i find the gunsen tools a bit pants. a good afr gauge would probably more use to you though!
Yerr thanks mate - definite chalk/cheese moment. I was starting to wonder what actual advantage this engine had over stock, up to this point! Now it's very clear. I used to have a Gunson's Mk1 CO meter back in the 1980's - it was crap. I'll perhaps shoot over to my usual MOT tester and see if I can cadge a go on his kit for a small fee.
Some cars I have tested the fuelling is near enough LBT on factory eprom, which is what, I would imagine, that company attempts to do ( if the fuel mixture is not already OK). They cannot map ignition which is where most of your response lies, hence the compromise with the dizzy. The dizzy adjustment is not enough to make the full use of the std engine spec, let alone a enlarged cammed one though. Testing a PB engine, that had a good road tune up, with good observed fuel mixture and testing a 2E/PB head 272 with Okaish fuelling resulting in the plots shown below. Peak Power Peak Torque Conditions Comments Actual PB 116bhp @ 5000rpm 130lbft @ 4000 rpm Dyno Dynamics ATMC2 correction Optimised Actual Mod 2E/PB head 126.5bhp @ 5300rpm 135lbft @ 3800 rpm Dyno Dynamics ATMC2 correction 272 Cam fitted. STD digifant 2 Notice the flatish portion of the WOT torque in both cases. I would suggest many tuning shops are only trying to reproduce a similar engine response ( by tweaking fuel mixture) especially if the car is driven to a facility in a poor condition ( bumpy and choppy WOT torque trace). Even if best fuel mixture was achieved for the two engines shown you still would influence the gereral torque shapes to a inimum but may make them a bit smoother vs if rpm by rpm and load by load spark adjustment was allowed. The above vehicles would obviously feel good/fast/pull-like-a-train/whatever over similar vehicle that is badly tuned or maintained, but not as your expect from a vehicle with a SEM with hours spent to mature the control calibration. Whether this translates, universially to 100lbft peak or 180lbft peak from one measurement machine to the other is another matter .
Car still "popping" when hot........is this timing and/or over-fuelling? I'm running stock FPR with G60 (440cc?) green injectors.....stock air flow meter. (Incidentally the donor engine's air flow meter had been messed about with - the resistor cover had been bodged back on........was that possibly a mod to change spring pressure etc?) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6ArN5R4HCQ
Listening to that I could say there are few things that are going on. The poping on lift off is due to overfuelling from larger injectors causing an thermal reaction in the hot exhaust with retard idle spark. I say retarded spark becuase, on idle your engine sounds very "hairy" of metallic, suggesting the idle spark is heavily retarded. Due to the throttle switch, you engine will flag "idle" when you close the throttle on a shift. Idle spark tends to be retarded compared to part throttle stuff. Not helped by where you put the dizzy in setup. Just listening to this I can feel more potential power to be had by careful calibration or adjustment of the system.
Thanks - yes, I figured the exhaust manifold (tubular - heatwrapped) was hot enough to ignite the excess fuel but wasn't sure why. There is a whining "belt" sound that can be heard - that's due to brand new timing belt and tensioner. What changes do you recommend to improve the performance? New blue top temperature sensor? Timing adjustment at setup? New knock-sensor? Changes to the air flow meter settings?
