Turbocharging VW 8V 4-cyl aluminum block

Hi all,

I'm planning to build my first turbo project and not planning to make massive power but to learn new tricks and experiment... The car is a -89 Golf and not a daily driver, but a project car that I use on street and track.

The plan is to build 1.8 8V engine with K03S turbo. Goal is to make ~200hp. To reduce weight I was wondering if anyone has ever used the VW 1.6 (100hp) aluminum block with forced induction? I could get one for almost free (code AKL). I have a 1.8t crank and a set of G60 pistons and rods with ARP bolts. These would fit straight in.

So, any ideas is it worth trying? Will I twist the whole block when doubling the engines output ? Would a girdle help? How much weight will I lost with this setup and is it worth it?

 

I think TSR have done kits for this engine so may be worth a call.
I do not think the 1.8 crank will fit in though. This is a pic of my own 1.6 AKL and you can see there is very little room between the crankpins and block, this is the 1.6 77.4mm stroke. The 1.8 86.4mm stroke crank will toil I think.

 

Damn, seems like a tight fit... Didn't though of this. Just had the old hunch that 1.6/1.8 blocks are all the same, just different cranks and rods . Thanks for clearing this out danster!

Can anyone verify this fitment issue?

If it won't fit then I'll need to go the other way and get a decent iron cast block, maybe a 1.8t?! I'm planning to use the AKL head anyway, so with that I don't need to tamper with the oilpassages... I think..

 

What 1.8T crank do you have anyway? It would need to be from the later internal water pump 1.8T engine to have any chance of fitting the AKL alloy block. Because the crank nose is longer for the chain drive to the oil pump.


If You have an earlier external water pump 1.8T engine, then the crossflow head will fit the iron block as it is wide enough to cover the extra 3 oil drain holes in the rear of the headgasket face that the 20v head uses. Still a few things to change with the cam belt setup though. It should fit the later type iron block too.

 

It's a -98 AGU crank from an Audi A3. I think it has the longer nose because of the chain driven oilpump, am i wrong?

The AKL head is from Audi A3 also, but -00. Part no is 06B103373A.

 

AGU is the later block so should be fine. You will still need to swap to the 8v cambelt timing belt pulleys as the belt is different. And there will be other smaller issues too.
It may just be easier to source a complete 2.0 crossflow APK code engine. Common in mk4 golfs.
You will still have to sort your pistons to lower compression for turbo but there are options for that.

 

What options do you recommend because I actually still have a -92 2E block in the garage that I could use? I also have a balanced set of original 159mm rods... Although I can't use my ARP bolts from the G60 rods because they are 1mm too thick

 

The 2E block is an option then. What sort of fueling and ignition are you planning on running?
The 2E rods are pretty strong as Toyotec on here uses them in his 16vT conversion.
I am sure if you mention crossflow again he will be a long shortly. I think he wants one and did not get one for his christmas present.

 

I'm using Megasquirt-II + wasted spark on my current setup. It's also going to be used in the turbo engine. The injectors that i'm planning to use are 390cc bosch from a Saab 95 Aero.

The 2E was going to be a NA stroker engine with TDI crank, but plans change

What piston options the 2E has in a turbo setup? I've seen custom pistons for the U.S. ABA engine, but if there are any easier (read cheaper) alternatives let me know.

 

There are certainly after market pistons from JE and Wossner available for the turbo application.
If you are only going to be running around 200bhp then possibly stacking headgaskets is an option. Much as it seems wrong to me as a solution, it does seem to work as demonstrated by quite a few folks with the 16vT conversions on ABF engines.

Read Toyotec's build thread on his Wolf car as most of it is applicable to you, just ignore his over use of valves and extra cam?

 

I will check the thread, thanks for all the info danster! Seems like you are a true 8V fan

 

I only strayed from the 8v way once when I was rather drunk.

 

Alloy blocks - -

Has anyone access to a list of alloy block engines, ideally including no. of valves, bore, stroke, and block height please?

All I've managed to identify are the AHP and AKL 1595cc 8 valvers

Thanks

 

There's a list coming together tucked away in here:

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223284&page=2

 

More pics, nice! I think this image sets the record straight:



The space between the crank counterweight and the block is quite small. It is propably just the extra ~5mm we need to fit the 1.8 crank.

Damn you VW, this is an outrage! for all these years you have been willing to let us mix parts from different generations without trouble until this very day. Who is responsible for this.. this.. tragedy!? Ok, enough with the sarcasm and back to the trusty old drawingboard...

I've tracked down a wrecked -02 Passat with 1.8t AWT engine. The engine is split, so the block is for sale (pistons+crank)... Still WAY expensive than an empty AKL block [:^(].

I need to go and straighten my thoughts... It's warm today outside (-6C, -25C on christmas eve), so I'll go and pull some new wiring to the car... If I can find it from all the snow

 

I have been looking at this for a while Monsier Onion. Trying to get rid of the trigger wheel from the 1.6 crank was my intention. Came up with this crank with odd counterweight arrangement.


But on inspection there seemed to be too little room for the extra throw of the 1.8 or 2.0 cranks.
There is a 2.0 alloy block engine with 20v head in some A4 Audis but it is very rare. ALT or ALH code, can't remember off the top of my head.
If you need anything from uk just ask.

 

I checked from ETKA and the ALT is a 2.0 20V NA engine (131hp). There are actually two 2002 ALT engines for sale here but the price is ~2500e (~2000 pounds). Both have 150-200.000 on the clock. Not too tempting...

Where are you planning to use that crank? High revving AKL?

 

2000 is far too much for a Scotsman to spend on a used engine.

Yes, just looking at making a very lightweight 1600 engine. 8v crossflow head that comes off the AKL too. Hence wanting rid of internal trigger wheel that can fail at high revs. 77.4mm stroke 1.6 is more likely to be revving harder than a 2.0 with it's 92.8mm stroke. At the moment it looks like I am just going to remove the trigger wheel and use the original AKL crank.

 

Yes, the prices on some salvage yards are sometimes ridiculous...

Do you need the triggerwheel for your ECU? I did an adapterplate to my current setup, so I can bolt the triggerwheel outside the block into the crankwheel. I don't have any pics at the moment, though...

 

Yes, would be going to external trigger wheel to avoid any catastrophes.