do you have both front and rear locating dowels in the block ? as this pic looks like the push rod was running off center and our clutch slipped in no time ours was a standard sachs too Edited by: 16vbanger
Mart does the pushrod bush and seal on his rebuilds, I bet it's engine oil in there as Ian does have a poorly fitting oil filler cap.
Yeah, Mart would have replaced all the seals about 100miles ago when he rebuilt the box, The friction plate doesn't look shiny, but the marking around the edge is a bit odd. I'll check that i have still got 2 locating dowels as i noticed the push rod wasn't centred too. i did have the clutch cable quite tightly adjusted now you mention it , that maybe with a bit of engine oil from the filler cap leak may may been making it slip a bit, only did it under hard acceleration when changing up. The box will be going back to Mart to have a diff fitted while it's out and he'll give it a once opver for me and i've got a inner Cv to change too, but do i still get a 150 helix friction plate???? Don't want to have to take it apart again, but then i am a bit tight
Up to you Ian, I think the combination of over adjustment and a bit of engine oil flying about has made it slip personally, it's not as though you go to Santa Pod, but at the same time I would prolly get a Helix disc if I were you.
You can normally burn the clutch plate clean - 50/50 mix of paraffin petrol in a metal bucket/hole in the ground/tin bath/wifey's roast pan.... then dump it in so it's well immersed, torch it, and let it burn till it's dry (and hot!)..
If you give the flywheel/pressure plate a good scouring with 40 grit paper on a d/a sander it helps with grip as well, for a while...... even on a std. everything, my 8v clutch /16v p/plate was slipping a wee bit too much on an old valver I had - a good scuff up and it gripped well till I sold it, and is still going 30k later with no probs.....
You need to tackle the offcentre clutch rod and oil in there imho. Really prioritise it. Get Martin to check the clutch rod side of it. What was Tub's trouble source in the end on this one Gary? I forget.
Regarding the off center pushrod, the plate that it pushes against on the pressure plate can actually be moved around. Its more likely that the plate on the pressure plate isnt on centrally than the pushrod being off center. Ian you will see what i mean if you move the plate around with a big flat blade srew driver.
Cool cheers G. i brought a new filler cap yesterday from GSF and i'l gunna use it with 2 rubber sealing washers so that it fits nice and tight on the rocker cover which will hopefully stop that leak. Also think i'm still going to get a helix organic friction plate.
I doubt that as I suspect the force from the pushrod would centralise the plate and the fact it's spinning if the plate was off center it would have a bigger mark than normal not just off center this is just my opinion though going on our 16v and how the clutch works on ours I know it has done 3 of those center caps off center through the dowel being missing
Hi there matey. Right, both seals and the bush were changed with the re-build. Somehting that always gets done as it can lead to problems if they are left(not like other Bigger companies). The dowels being missing could be an issue if they aren't there the bolt will align quite well but not good enough really.Also the pushrod plate, was it new or the old one? If it was the old one then the rod will try and follow the old wear groove. If it's new then for it to be out that much wouldn't be just the bush but something else out of alignment. As for the oil, that looks exactly like mine when I was leaking oil from the oil pump blanking plug and running down the side of the block. It was all over my bell housing and clutch[:^(] A good soak in petrol and then a little bonfire and itwas right as rain. Get some degreaser on the pressure plate and flywheel and then get some wet and dry on it. Will be ok then.