Had it changed by a mechanic. Wiring problem was my first thought. I've got it back now, it started but wouldn't start when I tried again, once I'd got home. The mechanic said he thought the battery needed charging up , so maybe I flattened it trying to start it. Im working tomorrow so I'll get a jump on Saturday and provided I get it started have a run out tof charge it up. However, the radio is no longer working nor is the MFA. I don't know what the he'll he's done to it. Not happy. It is a gti.
Timing problems It turns out the mechanic had fiddled with the timing because the idling revs were too high. Now he can't sort it because he says there are no timing marks. No idea what to do please help.
Timing problems It turns out the mechanic had fiddled with the timing because the idling revs were too high. Now he can't sort it because he says there are no timing marks. No idea what to do please help.
print this out and take it to him: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?124949 if its a digifant engine then everythign applies. if its a kjet then he can follow the basic timing sections, ignition pop the vacuum hose off the dizzy and cap it then use the 6 degree marker at idle same as shown in the thread. idle and co arev easy peasy, around 1% co for starters then work from there.
Finally go the car back today but its still not right. Its rough when it starts, sounds quite farty. No pull on even a slight incline and when it warms up is idling at about 1100rpm. if you rev it using the throttle, once its settled it does a short rev increase like a hmmph, and the settles again. I am a complete amateur and a woman to boot so I need really help. Could the blue temp sender have something to do with it. I can't find any air leaks. Although I noticed a small split in the big hose that the air flow meter sits on. Could that be a problem. I apologies if I sound a bit dim but I am a complete amateur and a woman to boot.
Finally got the car back today but its still not right. Its rough when it starts, sounds quite farty. No pull on even a slight incline and when it warms up is idling at about 1100rpm. if you rev it using the throttle, once its settled it does a short rev increase like a hmmph, and the settles again. Could the blue temp sender have something to do with it. I can't find any air leaks. Although I noticed a small split in the big hose that the air flow meter sits on. Could that be a problem. I apologies if I sound a bit dim but I am a complete amateur and a woman to boot.
if the split is in the main rubber boot from the air flow meter to the throttle body and goes right through that'll give you an air leak, so will want to get that sorted. if its still as you describe then it sounds like the ignition timing hasn't been setup right, may want to take it back and ask them to fix it properly, if you trust them not to mess it up even more that is! otherwise try to find another place who know more about old VWs, or ask in the chat section to see fi there are any enthusiasts local to you who dont mind donating some of their free time to take a look If you fancy getting dirty yourself I would start by checking the idle switch clicks when the throttle is closed to the stop then again when lifted, this is a comon cause for high idle issues. another potential cause is snapped wirign to the 2 pin plgu on the back of the throttle body. Anyway have a good look thru my guide above and take your time with it, hopefully it should start to make sense when you're looking at the car timing isnt as hard as it looks in the guide really, main thing is you want an inductive type timing light. this means the trigger wire just hooks over the #1 spark plug lead, it'll be like a box with a clip that you pop over. the other type plug in between the spark plug and the lead, these can be tricky to get hooked up right. then all you do is get the engine nice and hot, unplug the blue temp sensor and get a helper to run the revs at around 2.25k rpm. If you dont have a helper my method is to have a supply of cardboard and credit cards to hand. gradually wedge your bits between the throttle and stop till your revs are holding at 2.25k rpm Now you should see the diamond on the flywheel. if not, the dizzy needs to be rotated till its lined up. There are 2 potential difficulties with the timing setup, 1 the big green bung wont unscrew from the gearbox, and 2 the dizzy wont move when the clamp is loosened. #1 usually can be sorted with a few clouts from a hammer and screwdriver to encourage it to start loosening, #2 can be a bit fiddly especially if you have limited tools on hand, I've got some tips on unsticking it right at the end of my guide if the timing is out follow the idle/co procedure to make sure the base idle is about 900 rpm, with the CO take it to a garage/mot station and ask for half an hour on their co machine with some back pocket tax free cash after handing over a printout of my guide
I am going to have a go myself. My usual mechanic, who I've never had problems with before, has lost the lease on his garage, so he's not an option at the moment. I think his minds been elsewhere hence the poor job he's done. And I think I need to start learning as there's not many mechanics can deal with a proper engine anymore. I used to help my dad strip down his Hillman Imp as a kid so I'm not totally inept but lacking confidence. I haven't established whether the split in the air inlet hose is right through so that's my first job. Where is the idle switch in relation to the throttle?is it the screw on the right hand side?
good stuff the idle switch is on the bottom of the throttle body so a bit fiddly to get to, removing the inlet boot helps so can check that while you look for splits in the pipe. the switch on the top is your wide open throttle switch, and the 2 pin plug for both switches is on the back
I can hear the idle switch clicking and the wires from the 2 pin plug are intact. The air inlet pipe is intact too. From cold its idling around 900rpm but it sounds farty. If I rev it the engine wavers around before fin ally stopping. Ive let it warm up and it's showing over center on the temp gauge. Oil on the MFA is 84 and it's idling at 1100rpm climbing to 1200 then back to 1100. It sounds too fast and still farty. When I rev it now it returns quicker but does that hmph thing.
might be worth checking idle screw oring, mine wore out and kept unwinding itself till the isv couldnt compensate for it any more and idle would creep up. quick way to test the throttle switch circuit is to hold the revs to about 1300 or so then press the wide open switch on top, the revs should fall then rise again when released. if it does nothing you need to look into the throttle switch wiring a bit closer
